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Paul, When you turn model railway wheel do you use a profile form cutter? If so, do you grind your own lathe tools? Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF-

Well done! I enjoyed the trip. Pete M

Frantastic! Thanks for your research.

Just got a note from Harry - the tool post kits are back in stock and on Ebay. I just ordered one. Ebay item # 285269003226

Thank you, being new here I didn't realize there was so much info in there

Look in files. Drawings are there for the factory t-slotted table & a table with drilled and tapped holes on a grid.? https://mail.yahoo.com/m/36/edit/3621468074 I made one of each.? Bill in OKC?

Hello: Recently there was the “Old Advert” post with a Unimat ad from the UK that was “9 machines in 1”. I was aware of ads for 8 in 1, 10 in 1, 6 in 1, and 5 in 1 in Model Railroader magazine

The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group. * /History of Unmat in Model Railroader Magazine.pdf (

I am trying to make a milling table for my unimat from a piece of cast iron. The dimensions I get off photos on Ebay just don't look correct. Does anyone possibly have the dimensions of the table?,

I had the same issue with the toothed pulley - I used a torch to loosen it up. I was able to find a pulley with 8mm ID. I guess I'll find out how well the PS/controller that I bought works out - and

That's roughly what I did, but differences were: I used a linear power supply - a big transformer, chunky rectifier and a big capacitor. I used a pavement vehicle speed controller - bags of power I

Very nice work, Mike Thank you for the information! -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/s...995#post112113 (

I'm guessing you've seen this link - it's what I'm using for a reference for my conversion. Only difference is that instead of drilling new holes in the motor to fit the original motor mount, I'm

Mine worked very well with the widely used 24 V DC motor. I used 130 W, and it was fine. I would stay in the range 100 - 150 W whilst remembering that the lower power DC motors go a bit faster than

Looking forward to seeing that Neil. Jeff

I've just done my SL up with a 24v 150W motor and PWM speed control. It's AMAZING! I'm going to document it all once I've sorted out my drive pulley.

I doubt you NEED to key them together, but I don't see how it can hurt anything. Might make things better in the long run if you might ever decide to CNC the lathe, including the spindle... OTH,

Dick the plans are by Peter Ashby and they are in the files of this group called something like "Unimat4 Threading attachment .pdf"

Hi Dick those gears are of a homemade version of the Unimat 3/4? threading set part number 150200. I 3D printed the gears and machined the other parts. Here is the parts nearly finished laid on plan.

The dc motors I have used for my unimats usually came with a flat on their shaft. I just drilled and tapped through the pulley for a small set screw ( like 4-40). The set screw bears on the flat. One