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Welcome Mihal! You bring up some good points. I have also considered the spindle motors as a potential replacement on my DB200. I and others would love to see pictures of and learn more details about

-- NapierDeltic Hi, this is my first time writing here. Thank you for all info available on this forum-really loved it. What I don't understand is : on much bigger lathes - as Sieg C3 is under various

Is it necessary to remove the field windings? When I replaced the cord and suppressor on one of these I didn't have to - never occurred to me to try.

(Sorry for reviving this old thread, but it's a good thread to start with to ask my stupid question): I need to completely replace the cord + switch of my U90, as it's badly frayed and the switch is

If all else fails, you might have to resort to the time honored method of accurately drilling the brass orifice out and running the correct size tap into the hole. Then make a new orrifice.

Good evening, Thanks for all your replies, this is why I joined this site. I think I will apply Occam's razor and try the easiest to produce method first, I'll turn a piece of brass to fit the

I'd look through all of the files, but this is a really good place to start: /g/Unimat/files/Books%20-%20Tingey,%20etc. Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) A human being

Thanks for all of the responses.? Some very good ideas.? I will post some more later on the part I need to remove. Where can I find more information on setting up the mill and then how to use it??

You may want to look for a tool called a drag link. They are essentially large flat screwdriver blades on a socket. -- Thanks, Dustin Gebhardt

Another suggestion to help free the brass parts. Instead of heating try cooling or cycle the heating & cooling. In the past I have wrapped item & put them in the freezer for a few days. Items that

I have a couple versions of that set, not Klein, and they are good for many things, but none of them will work on a 1/8" wide screwdriver slot. Is why I suggested Chapman or Wheeler tools. They do

This is essentially identical to a spanner screw, one type of tamper-proof screw. If you can make do without the central locating pin you could just pick up a set of tamper-proof bits for a magnetic

I don't think you will find anything off the shelf to do the job, so you are left with the job of making something like a live centre that carries a chuck, of whatever kind. I imagine you would have

David, some of the solutions that have been suggested to you either require a fair amount of work or you have to acquire/buy something. This may seem too simple or might not be exactly what you want.

For my first attempt I would put some hex bar in the three jaw chuck - I would buy a bit of hex bar since I would expect to have more then one try. Use a tough or hardenable, steel, and expect to take

Sounds like you don't need it to do more than rest without going off centre at the tailstock.? Why not build up from a live centre? - viz.? centre drill a piece of stock to be a comfortable fit over

BTW, that middle tool looks an awful lot like a self-holding screwdriver I used at work, a couple of years ago. Mine was sized for 3/16" round head machine screws, so only about 1/16" or less in

Hello David: I did need a steady rest once for a 75 piece job. I used the head stock to drill a hole in a plate to form a one size steady rest. I finished the job and then returned to plate to the

You going to be doing a bunch of these, or just one? If the tool width is 1/8", you could slot it, and use a piece of keystock, or if it needs to be longer, a piece of 1/8" plate sawn and filed to

Have you tried heating carb in a toaster oven? I have had some success heating carbs for 30 minutes @ 250-300 degrees to break free stubborn brass parts. [email protected]> wrote: