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Hello Dick: You are right, the body is mild steel where you need to cut. That is how I did the threads on my ER32 Chuck: /g/Unimat/photo/195716/4?p=Name,,er32,20,1,0,0 Carl.

Hi Carl, I was assuming the chuck body was able to be machined and not too hard. That makes it very doable. Dick

Hi Gang: This is almost what I do, the big difference I put a dowel pin in the lathe for the drill chuck to clamp on. If the dowel pin is running true, the clamping surfaces of the chuck are too. Then

Hi guys, I think Paul is right, the format and organisation of groups.io certainly helps a lot. Stay safe, James in sunny Fife Sent from my Sony Xperia on the hoof This email contains recycled

Keith I think you would be surprised by the number of people visiting this site gleaning great ideas. Just because not everyone contributes, that does not mean it's not appreciated . I'm not into

Yes, lockdown must be helping, I've certainly done more modelling and lathework in the past few weeks than I normally would. I've even got my airbrush out of storage which hasn't seen the light of day

I am one of the new members, though I have been interested in Unimat lathes and machining on a bigger scale for many years. I have noticed an increase in interest in these little lathes and I think

When I got my Unimat SL it had a 3 jaw chuck and a 4 jaw chuck, not self centering. I bought a 10mm drill chuck that had a B2 I believe taper in it. I clamped the drill chuck in the 4 jaw chuck and

Keith, That sounds like a good method to insure close T.I.R. I have an existing 1/4” Emco drill chuck with T.I.R. issues since new back in the fifties or sixties. It is threaded 12mm x1mm and has

Looking at the activity numbers we are having the best month for a good few years now. With everyone being in isolation, shut down, lock up or lock in it's a good job we still have our forum to help

When I did it I used a tailstock ram with an ER11 collet on it to drill the 11 mm hole - I suppose a drill chuck would do just as well but the sall collets give me more working space. I have a short

Hi Carl, I have a question for you. When you tapped the drill chucks to M12 x 1mm how did you ensure good concentricity (runout)? Dick

Hi William, Do you have any pictures of the Extended Way Bars. I understand the principle but I would like to see a picture of the extended bars mounted on the Uni. Thanks Dick

Mr. Ayerst, if it would help, I can try to drill this hole in your piece of aluminum if you send ito me. I do not have extra aluminum stock around. This of course is if you are in the US, otherwise

Hi Gang: Years ago when I bought my Unimat, 1973, I started acquiring tooling. The first tool everyone with a Unimat should have is the M12x1 tap. This will allow you to make tooling to fit the

Hi Brian , Thanks for the tip. I also damaged my cap about a week ago and was thinking of how to get a replacement. After reading your post, I tried it and I have been able to make my own cap. Thanks.

You can’t have too many lathes J Regards, Andy Sent: 24 April 2020 08:32 To: Andy Carlson <andycarlson@...>; [email protected] Subject: Re: [Unimat] Clamping large dia. for centre-drilling Thanks

Thanks All. Andy, I have a three jaw chuck, four jaw chuck, catchplate/faceplate + dog and the vertical milling attachment. Unfortunately, no extended way bars. I do have a Proxxon mini pillar drill

Boring is a good way to make big holes on small lathes but this workpiece is 6 inches long so I would want a fixed steady and possibly also to take the tailstock off. Even then the Unimat might be

Hi Gang: Using the two quills you can only drill 5cm deep. If you clamp the stock to the cross slide you can drill the full travel of the carriage, plus the head stock quill. So the idea is to use the