开云体育

Which one's better depends entirely on your goal. If you need a lathe of this size and cost to do actual work, skip Unimat and go straight to Sherline. If you want to play with a cool little retro

Can you send me the message that you say I posted four years ago? I have no recollection of posting it. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972

Tim, I don’t recall posting plans four years ago. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/s...995#post112113 (

So you never built the tool whose plans you posted four years ago? Where did those drawings come from? The writeup is pretty good, I think. Tim

Here's the one I have, it just uses a v pointer into the gear, and has a chuck on the other end of the shaft. Sent from Outlook for Android Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2024 4:48:19 am To:

I have a dividing head inherited from my late machinist friend, it uses gears to index the head, I have found it easy to make new gears on a 3d printer, I can make plates with just the number of

They also had a 24 tooth wheel, so they had 4 different wheel.?Jeff

Hi Dick: Perhaps you could add a protractor between the chuck and the indexer. Then if you know the angle you are shooting for you will know you are close to right. Carl.

I have the original DBSL dividing attachment with 3 dividing wheels or gears. There is no good way of knowing what space or notch I am in as I can’t see the notch. I think this makes it very hard to

Hi Gang: Two formula for deflection: L = length A = area ??? a = interior area D = depth ??? d = interior depth w = load First a solid rod = w*L? / 24*A*D? Second a hollow tube = w*L? /

I don't know if they used "centerless grinding" to make the rods.? But there is a good chance they did.? It is also more efficient if making large number of parts.? No mounting of the part between

I believe that weight for weight tubes are stronger than solid rods but not diameter for diameter

This kind of discussion causes me to imagine that there’s an obscure office in a long forgotten basement in an old NASA or Dept of Defence building somewhere, where someone is drafting the MilSpec

Carl, I have two small precision grinding vises, one smaller and one larger. I use them on my Unimat. They work nicely on the little Unimat and much better than the Unimat vise. --

Good Find Bruno! Those are nice precision vices, the type I've used for grinding small parts. Much nicer than the Unimat vice. Nice looking blacken adapter. I would add some more mounting holes so you

We went through this some time ago in great detail - or at least I did. Hardening steel does not make it stiffer, which is what we want for a lathe bed. It raises the yield point, at which the steel

I've been looking for a long time to find a scrubbing stick for my little Unimat. Either the parts on offer are totally rotten or outrageously expensive. I looked around for an alternative and found a

Ground & finished Drill rod, or "silver steel" that I do not believe was hardened to any degree? Not sure of the alloy used either? I'm very curious though if anyone has more info ?

A tube of the same mass as a solid rod is stiffer, but it will have a larger diameter.? For the same diameter, a rod is stiffer than a tube.? And since the rod has more mass than a same diameter

Am I right in thinking that tubes are stiffer than solid rods? I have a U3 (so don’t know) but do folks swap out the solid rods for tubes, maybe made from some exotic extra-stiff material? Getting