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I just realized my pictures make that powder a lot more blue than it is in person.? It's a pretty standard green/dark green in person.? Or maybe its just my screen lol

I did it myself.? I've always found powder coating to be a bit of a cheat code on good finishes, I find it hard to screw up.? I don't have the same luck with paint typically.? I just use a toaster

glad to see that you got good results from the powder coating process, hats off to your vendor, or did you do yourself? I ask because I have found the process to be rather problematic, often from the

That was my thinking @ color, and also not a collector.? I just want it to look good, be protected and durable and ready to get to work.? Plus I've never used a hammertone powder before so it gave

Both headstocks look pristine and have the Red Label. -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/s...995#post112113 (

I have two of the cast iron DB200 models and they appear to be of the same vintage. Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/ forum/ OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972

It looks good. Bearing in mind the reported range of colours during the production life of the units is it absolutely necessary to replicate the colour? The paint is to protect the surface from

Paul, Thank you, it looks like its the way I must go. Regards Dave Borneo Island

Whoops, attached the wrong pic.? This one is with the headstock

I'm making some questionable decisions but I wanted to refinish one of them and make it look as pristine as I could. I was going to use a rattle can hammered finish, found a color I liked.? It didn't

Just a different idea for safety but may be not for the Unimat :-) I picked up a couple of Conveyor Belt protection switches a while ago. They have a spring loaded cord arrangement that cuts power if

I am looking for the specs on two parts, from the Autofeed attachment for Unimat SL 1) Compression Spring (A2Z 300 110) that goes into right baseplate pressing outward on Swinging section to maintain

This is the setup I used. The motor is extremely quiet, and while the mounting lugs are slightly wider than the stock motor mounting holes, I only had to slot one of them by a couple millimeters or so

Manuel Ceuma Reverter <mcr6025@...> deleted the photo album Mis tornos Emco

Dave, I had the opposite happen with my motor change I got a 24V DC and made a controller box but had a lot of noise from it, a friend gave me a 220V AC motor off a small lathe I made up a controller

All, Thanks for the info regarding the motor, I was not aware the AC motors were so noisy so it looks like I will need to go for the DC scooter motor. I have such a small space to work I will have to

Thanks for that detailed reply. John Sent: April 13, 2024 4:35 PM To: John Dammeyer; [email protected] Subject: Re: [Unimat] New aftermarket motor db200 lathe John, thats interesting..... When I put on

John, thats interesting..... When I put on the toothed belt drive mechanical noise was far from my mind. I had just seen the "blurb" on the "new" unimat 4 which came ( as I remember ) with a tooth

Hi Bob, I’m curious. Do you find the tooth belt still lets the lathe create a smooth finish or does the engagement of the teeth result in harmonics on the surface. There’s so little mass compared