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Re: Unimat 3 - replacing/making new gibs

Alexander noname
 

i done a set of brass stripes and gibs.
.yes t would give you more stability

Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers=[email protected]> schrieb am So., 10. Juli 2022, 06:32:

Steel gibs are perfectly fine on cast iron ways.?

I don't know what your U3 is made of. If it's? cast iron, steel would be good. If it's steel, cast iron would be good. Brass would be fairly good for either iron or steel ways You might be able to fake it long enough to make better gibs in either of the preferred metals with aluminum or plastic gibs the U3 temporarily.? ?Depending on your long term needs you might get by fine with plastic or aluminum while you source better materials even if it takes years. There are harder plastics, too, though some are considered obsolete, like Bakelite that could wore well, or Mikarta.?

Bill in OKC?

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Saturday, July 9, 2022 at 12:25:01 PM CDT, sawbona@... <sawbona@...> wrote:


Hello:

I am in need of replacing the gib on my U3's top slide (part 150.190) as it came with a non-OEM of dubious design.
The original plastic/fiber molded (?) gibs on the carriage and the cross feed also seem to be in need of replacement.

The first one because it is made of steel, not the best material for a gib.
The others because of their age but not only that: I am finding there seems to be a lack of rigidity in the cross slide as I practise turning of soft steel.
eg: a slow thin surface cut at low speed will cut going in but also coming out.

I have looked all over for a source for these parts (unsurprisingly to no avail) but I have not found an article or information on how to go about making a new set either.? I'm sure that the choice of materials, method, geometry, critical dimesions, etc. are of the utmost importance.

I did find a couple of photos posted on a German site but only for reference to what had to be done to make the Unimat 3 stay in line, so to speak:



The adjustment bar of the cross slide is made of plastic, not very stable and sensitive.
A small brass strip (see arrow) fixes the problem.



The guide rails of the bed slide are also made of plastic and are too unstable.
Under (low) load, the bed slide twists minimally on the guide prism resulting in an inaccurate turning result.
At least one of these plastic strips should be replaced by an exactly fitting one brass strip to be replaced.

Q:
Has any member made a new set of gibs for their Unimat/s?
If so, I'd appreciate some input on how to go about it.

Thanks in advance.

Best,

JHM


Re: Unimat 3 - replacing/making new gibs

 

Steel gibs are perfectly fine on cast iron ways.?

I don't know what your U3 is made of. If it's? cast iron, steel would be good. If it's steel, cast iron would be good. Brass would be fairly good for either iron or steel ways You might be able to fake it long enough to make better gibs in either of the preferred metals with aluminum or plastic gibs the U3 temporarily.? ?Depending on your long term needs you might get by fine with plastic or aluminum while you source better materials even if it takes years. There are harder plastics, too, though some are considered obsolete, like Bakelite that could wore well, or Mikarta.?

Bill in OKC?

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Saturday, July 9, 2022 at 12:25:01 PM CDT, sawbona@... <sawbona@...> wrote:


Hello:

I am in need of replacing the gib on my U3's top slide (part 150.190) as it came with a non-OEM of dubious design.
The original plastic/fiber molded (?) gibs on the carriage and the cross feed also seem to be in need of replacement.

The first one because it is made of steel, not the best material for a gib.
The others because of their age but not only that: I am finding there seems to be a lack of rigidity in the cross slide as I practise turning of soft steel.
eg: a slow thin surface cut at low speed will cut going in but also coming out.

I have looked all over for a source for these parts (unsurprisingly to no avail) but I have not found an article or information on how to go about making a new set either.? I'm sure that the choice of materials, method, geometry, critical dimesions, etc. are of the utmost importance.

I did find a couple of photos posted on a German site but only for reference to what had to be done to make the Unimat 3 stay in line, so to speak:



The adjustment bar of the cross slide is made of plastic, not very stable and sensitive.
A small brass strip (see arrow) fixes the problem.



The guide rails of the bed slide are also made of plastic and are too unstable.
Under (low) load, the bed slide twists minimally on the guide prism resulting in an inaccurate turning result.
At least one of these plastic strips should be replaced by an exactly fitting one brass strip to be replaced.

Q:
Has any member made a new set of gibs for their Unimat/s?
If so, I'd appreciate some input on how to go about it.

Thanks in advance.

Best,

JHM


Re: Milling with the DB 200

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hello Slynch:

This is one weak feature of the Unimat. There is no graduations for vertical movement. You can move the quill and not loose location, which you would loose if you moved the milling head. You could use an indicator to watch how much the quill moves.

Take small cuts, it isn't a heavy duty machine.

Carl.

On 7/9/2022 9:03 PM, slynch wrote:

I'm fairly new with the DB 200, and I'm trying to figure out how you mill with it. I can see the X-Y movement with the milling table attached to the cross-slide, but how do you accurately control the vertical cut depth ? I don't see any kind of a fine depth of cut adjustment, or do you re-adjust the milling head on the vertical shaft every depth change ?

Cheers


Re: Milling with the DB 200

Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject
 

Z-axis in milling set-up is a significant problem. When I do it I use the quill feed on the headstock but accuracy is not inherent. There are some Unis with an aftermarket z-axis feed mechanism out there, but they're pretty rare. Search the group for "UPVLA" for previous discussion of it.?

Kevin from PersonMakeObject


On Sat, Jul 9, 2022, 8:03 PM slynch <seanlynch40@...> wrote:
I'm fairly new with the DB 200, and I'm trying to figure out how you mill with it. I can see the X-Y movement with the milling table attached to the cross-slide, but how do you accurately control the vertical cut depth ? I don't see any kind of a fine depth of cut adjustment, or do you re-adjust the milling head on the vertical shaft every depth change ?

Cheers


Milling with the DB 200

slynch
 

I'm fairly new with the DB 200, and I'm trying to figure out how you mill with it. I can see the X-Y movement with the milling table attached to the cross-slide, but how do you accurately control the vertical cut depth ? I don't see any kind of a fine depth of cut adjustment, or do you re-adjust the milling head on the vertical shaft every depth change ?

Cheers


Unimat 3 - replacing/making new gibs

 

Hello:

I am in need of replacing the gib on my U3's top slide (part 150.190) as it came with a non-OEM of dubious design.
The original plastic/fiber molded (?) gibs on the carriage and the cross feed also seem to be in need of replacement.

The first one because it is made of steel, not the best material for a gib.
The others because of their age but not only that: I am finding there seems to be a lack of rigidity in the cross slide as I practise turning of soft steel.
eg: a slow thin surface cut at low speed will cut going in but also coming out.

I have looked all over for a source for these parts (unsurprisingly to no avail) but I have not found an article or information on how to go about making a new set either.? I'm sure that the choice of materials, method, geometry, critical dimesions, etc. are of the utmost importance.

I did find a couple of photos posted on a German site but only for reference to what had to be done to make the Unimat 3 stay in line, so to speak:



The adjustment bar of the cross slide is made of plastic, not very stable and sensitive.
A small brass strip (see arrow) fixes the problem.



The guide rails of the bed slide are also made of plastic and are too unstable.
Under (low) load, the bed slide twists minimally on the guide prism resulting in an inaccurate turning result.
At least one of these plastic strips should be replaced by an exactly fitting one brass strip to be replaced.

Q:
Has any member made a new set of gibs for their Unimat/s?
If so, I'd appreciate some input on how to go about it.

Thanks in advance.

Best,

JHM


Re: Mert Baker's passing

 

My sincere condolences on your Dad¡¯s passing. I was lucky enough to correspond with him by email on Unimat techniques and I learned a great deal through him and his knowledge on this group. Rest well, Mert.?

Dave W


Re: Damaged thread woes

 

Hello:

I don't recognise this as any part of a U3, nor can I find it in any of the drawings ...


It may not be in the manual, it is not in my (incomplete) copy.
This is from the HobbyProducts_(NeilsCompressed).pdf file we have here.

On Thu, Jul 7, 2022 at 08:33 PM, Keith S. Angus wrote:

The M3 screws don't bite because the holes are for M4.
The part you are seeing in p.6 is the complete tool holder assembly which indeed has M4x16 DIN 5535.8 screws
But it is not the part I am referring to.

This part takes the place of the tool post and can change the angle of attack.
Nevertheless, there seems to be more than one version of this part.

This is the one I have:



Notice the tool holder has four screws instead of one to hold the tool in each possible orientation.
This is one just like it, fetched from the web:



Having two screws to hold a tool allows for playing with height/angle.

Then there's the version from the *.pdf file:




It has M3 holes threaded for M3x0.50.
Why didn't they use M4 screws like in the tool post slide? 8^#%$! ...

Thanks for your input.

Best,

JHM


Re: Damaged thread woes

 

And then, looking again, it starts to make sense. The M3 screws don't bite because the holes are for M4. The separate block is the gib strip, which shouldn't have any holes in it at all. The one in the manual has a groove at one end which is located by one of the screw points to stop it slipping out. I suggest you start again with a bit of brass strip, or steel as a second choice. Ideally file the edges to match the dovetail angle. Assemble everything with pointed M4 screws, and do them up tight. That should produce some marks on the strip, so you could lightly drill them to just make a recess where the screws go, or file a groove across the strip. It only needs one to make sure it doesn't move unless you undo the screws fully.

It does look like a previous owner has not understood how a gib strip works. This does suggest there will be other basic mistakes elsewhere on the lathe.


Re: Damaged thread woes

 

I don't recognise this as any part of a U3, nor can I find it in any of the drawings in the manual, nor does the part number 150 190 appear anywhere in the manual. Can you post a picture of the part in place to make things clearer? For example, the manual shows the adjusting screws as M4, tapped through the dovetail cut into the bottom of the cross slide, not through a separate block. see page 6 in the Service Parts section of the Instruction Book Ref, VS2 050, Auflage 8609.


Re: Mert Baker's passing

 

Hello Vicky

Please accept my sincere condolenceys for the loss of your Father.
Mert was a legend on the Unimat and spent hours writing down his knowledge of the lathe on this group and was always able to offer helpful advice to those seeking it, his input will be sorely missed.

Marcus


Re: Damaged thread woes

 

Hello:


On Thu, Jul 7, 2022 at 05:41 PM, John Hutnick wrote:

If there is enough material ...
Ahh ...
A huuuuge if.

This is the view of the holes as they are.
You can easily make out that they are not the same distance from the way.



Here's a sketch with the measurements.
Please excuse the untidiness. 8^/



I gave the piece a thorough scrubbing with a toothbrush and degreaser to measure it.

I was not able to find that same discrepancy (0.2mm) by measuring the distance from the way to where the tool is held.
So I think the discrepancy can only be due to careless machining on behalf of Emco/Unimat.

Having at most 1.2mm to bite into, an M3.50x0.60 tap will do away with 0.25mm and leave a tad less than 1.0 mm. to the way.
I don't really think there's much room for anything else.

If it wasn't that these thinguies cost way too much for what they are ...

Thanks for your input.

Best,

JHM


Re: Damaged thread woes

 

If there is enough material, you may want to try 5-40(.125" OD) or 6-32(.138).? With these you can get actual socket head setscrews.? This is obviously if you do not mind mixing inch and metric.
Now there is another solution used for repair of stripped thread areas, but it is more complicated.? Again, depending on how much space there is, you drill out the stripped thread area and make up and solder in a brass sleeve that is tapped for the original thread.? You can even turn it to make a shallow head T-type bushing to provide more solder joint area.? Use a Stay Brite type solder, which is stronger.? Now of course someone may say that this is no good, the joint will let go, etc.? ?I have found that this works.? You just need a well done solder joint.


Damaged thread woes

 

Hello:

Still getting acquainted with my U3 and finding things. ie: carelessness on behalf of its previous owner/s.
For another sample, see

Turns out that the threads (M3x0.5) for adjusting the gib on the top slide (part 150.190) are stripped.
Both of them, albeit one of them still holds a bit.

When I saw the screws and realised they were not the original ones, I went out and purchased a set of new (slot head) ones but one of them will not hold.
My Greenfield M3x0.50 tap can be jiggled once placed in the holes so ...? 8^/



I have a M3.5x0.60 tap but will have to make do with round head Phillips screws as that thread is not available in other formats where I get them.
Not a problem per se and guess I could make do till I find or send for a a few.

And then the gib is another issue to tend to.



It seems to me that there is not enough material for drilling and tapping to M4x0.70 so that's about it.



Before I do anything, I'd appreciate opinions from those with the necessary experience to deal with this type of thing.

Thanks in advance.

Best,

JHM


Re: Mert Baker's passing

 

Hello:


On Tue, Jul 5, 2022 at 05:32 PM, Mert Baker wrote:
I am sorry to report that Dad died on 25 May.
I'm quite new here so I did not know your father.
But from what I have read in this thread, it is quite evident to me that he was a great chap.
Something? to be proud of.

Please accept my sincere condolences.

JHM


Re: Mert Baker's passing

 

Dear Vicki,

Your dad, Mert, was a huge asset and teacher to this community. I bought his tail stock risers back in 2016 and got a long, educational explanation of the key dimensional aspects of his product and the use of aluminum foil shims to address my elevated headstock-to-risered-tail stick alignment concerns.

Along the way, I learned Mert had been using his Unimat since you, Vicki, were three years old, and he had volunteered back then, that you were 58. And how he was just starting to use the risers himself and learning about the process, along with me.?


So sorry to hear of his passing and for your loss.?


Sincerely,
Jeff K
New York City


Re: Mert Baker's passing

 

Vicki, sorry for your loss he was a great help to this old want to become a machinist. I still have a couple of blanks I got from him years ago. I was just thinking about him a few weeks ago, about that time. Thanks for keeping us in the loop.

Pat


Re: Mert Baker's passing

 

Hi? Vicki,

My sincere condolences,? he will be sorely missed by many and this group for sure.?

An old world gentleman, who having acquired a great deal of experience and skill, was very willing to share. He did so freely and succinctly. He posted with humour that came from a deep knowledge and understanding.

I, for one missed his pithy posts. He would wait as a thread developed and then add his two pennies worth. We would wait for that to happen and then take those thoughts and advice to build into our practice.

May he rest in peace, calm seas an light winds.

James?
Ex RN Tiffy.

On Wed, 6 Jul 2022, 05:27 Bill in OKC too via , <wmrmeyers=[email protected]> wrote:
Vicky, I first "met" your dad online in the 7x10mini-lathe group, and it's successors. Followed him on the Unimat group and some others, as well. I'd been doing hobby metalworking of one sort an another for 35 years before I finally laid hands on a 7x10 mini-lathe, and he provided me with an enormous store of information on machining, metalworking, gunsmithing, and other things that I wanted to know about. He could explain things in a few sentences, or even just a few word, that would take many others pages and pages, and still not be so clear and helpful! I'd always hoped that someday I'd get to meet in in person, but that I'm not going to get to, now, is something I'll always regret. H was happy to share his knowledge, and help people begin to approach his skill level in these hobbies, and I will always remember his kindness and willingness to share! He's really high in my top-10 list of people I want to be like when I grow up! He will be severely missed!?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 03:32:03 PM CDT, Mert Baker <mert616baker@...> wrote:


Dear Unimat Friends of My Dad--

I am sorry to report that Dad died on 25 May.

I just want to let you know that even though he had given up on being online, and in the last year had stopped tinkering with his Unimat, he still very much appreciated this community and your friendship to the end of his life.

Here is a link to his obituary.



I am building a memory book, so if you reply with a favorite memory to this thread, I'll print it and add it to the book.

Take care, be well, and wishing all of you all the best,

Vicki Baker (Mert's daughter)


--
James Batchelor?
Dunfermline, Fife, UK.?
07805 207238


Re: Mert Baker's passing

 

Vicky, I first "met" your dad online in the 7x10mini-lathe group, and it's successors. Followed him on the Unimat group and some others, as well. I'd been doing hobby metalworking of one sort an another for 35 years before I finally laid hands on a 7x10 mini-lathe, and he provided me with an enormous store of information on machining, metalworking, gunsmithing, and other things that I wanted to know about. He could explain things in a few sentences, or even just a few word, that would take many others pages and pages, and still not be so clear and helpful! I'd always hoped that someday I'd get to meet in in person, but that I'm not going to get to, now, is something I'll always regret. H was happy to share his knowledge, and help people begin to approach his skill level in these hobbies, and I will always remember his kindness and willingness to share! He's really high in my top-10 list of people I want to be like when I grow up! He will be severely missed!?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 03:32:03 PM CDT, Mert Baker <mert616baker@...> wrote:


Dear Unimat Friends of My Dad--

I am sorry to report that Dad died on 25 May.

I just want to let you know that even though he had given up on being online, and in the last year had stopped tinkering with his Unimat, he still very much appreciated this community and your friendship to the end of his life.

Here is a link to his obituary.



I am building a memory book, so if you reply with a favorite memory to this thread, I'll print it and add it to the book.

Take care, be well, and wishing all of you all the best,

Vicki Baker (Mert's daughter)


Re: DB200 with Rustoleum Hammertone Paint

 

That looks really nice.? For a somewhat poor color comparison between original Unimat paint and the Rustolem Hammered Rosemary paint you can watch my YouTube video.? The first Unimat in the video is a Rustolem Rosemary repaint.? The others are factory paint jobs.? (also, not all parts on the 1st one were repainted.? The motor has not been painted)? the Link to my Video is


I still have 1 1/2 cans of the paint
?

Jim