There is great variety of machine dials so you will have to select what suits your needs.

Dick

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?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
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Just go to: wwwLittleMachineShop.com

All the information is on their website.

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Do you have a part number for the dial. Or what category are they in?

Even though the Unimat is metric I would install Imperial (inch) lead screws as my micrometers are imperial. I don¡¯t need to complicate things. The only other pieces of measurement equipment is a 6¡± battery operated caliper and 0 to 6¡± depth micrometer set.

Dick

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Little Machine Shop has these dials to suite practically any thread pitch. I saw prices around $14.00 each.

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Here is a picture of the resettable dial I have. They are readily available.

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There is no difference between Belleville washers and disc springs - just that Belleville is a trade name and they may offer sizes that are not in the "standard" metric range. For example I don't think the standard range includes ones that snap over, but it happens with the right (wrong?) combination of overall height, diameters and thickness. Sometimes it can be useful - for example in some of the torque wrenches that click when you get to the right torque. Of course those ones also click back when you stop squeezing them. Sounds like the ones from China were only approximately the same.

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There is an extensive series sized for use as preload washers on metric bearings, so they shouldn't be too hard to find. I've seen them on Ebay (UK) offered in small numbers, and I found a Schnorr dealer who will sell you one if you like, as may be needed for repairs to some types of machinery - like small lathes, or big ones too.

Many thanks for the continuing advice - I have some 0.7mm material and piercing blades on the way.

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I¡¯m going to take my time.

I have some doubt that a soldered split joint will provide a good force fit for this.? That is why others have suggested steel backing.

As far as the rat tail file, you may get lucky, depending on the dia and taper of the file.? But this is why tapered breaches have been suggested.

I would use a Jewelers saw, appropriate thickness of steel or brass, drill press and files.

I use Rio Grande brand jewelry saw blades and have a swiss jewelry saw - under $20 for the saw;

I have a really old one that was $2 that I travel with, it works too, just isn't as pretty, but I won't

get crazy if I leave it and forget to bring it home.

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if the hole has a minimum flange you would have to mill the thickness after drilling the hole...

That is a little more complex but can be done with a end mill on the unimat, manually.? ?Just

use a piece large enough that can be manuevered under the flat end mill.

?

I would drill the hole first,

use end mill for relief from flange on the back side.

use a sharpie, and an awl to draw the design...

cut out with jewelry saw...

use files to clean up...

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Use a Bird's mouth board for cutting with a jewelry saw.? My favorite instructor calls his

jewelry saw a multi axis cutting tool... it is so fun to be in his classes.

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Alternatively you can solder or epoxy a washer to the back side of it and re-drill, too.??

?

But days to receive it in shipping and no matter how detailed I am at looking at the

description it could not be the right part....

?

It is easier to buy something but satisfying to make it - maybe an hour of time?

?

Tamra

?

?

Hello:

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On Thu, Nov 21, 2024 at 10:24 PM, Julius Henry Marx replied:

... receiving the package in a fortnight or less.

... post the purveyor's data before testing the springs if it is important to you.

... sure that what I am presenting is as advertised ...

?

Sorry for the delay but shipping from China, holidays and customs makes for a long wait.

This is just an update, I need some time to write up how the whole thing developed and include the end result.

?

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That said, I am sorry to have to report that the disks I purchased were not what I expected.

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While these CN chaps were quite accessible, price+shipping was not absurd and the dimensions were as specified, the purchased disks were not fit for the intended purpose. ie: replace the fatigue ridden ones.

?

The main problem (I think) being that they are not the same spec as the OEM ones and as a result behave differently.

When attempting to install them they deformed and snapped in opposite direction (think a sock being turned over violently).

?

Worse yet, when taken out again, they did not snap back by themselves.

To get them to their original shape / disposition I had to apply considerable force in the opposite direction.

?

Certainly not how a disk spring should behave.

?

This is (most probably) because they are not *disk springs* but *Belleville washers*.

Besides their not being fit for the intended use, the best indication of this is that they were sold indistinctingly under both names.

?

As has been posted here in another thread:

?

?

See for more on that very important issue.

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@John Hutnick

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While genuine disk springs are quite difficult to source (particularly in that size and spec*) it is not impossible to find them.

* 34.6X20.4X0.4 for 6003 series ball bearings

The ca. 1980 Emco Unimat manual (page 4?) lists it as "ZFD 94 3461 - 34.6x20.4x0.4 - Tellerfeder - Disk spring - Roncl. assiette".

But I have also seen the same part referred to as "ZFD 94 3461 34,6x20,4x0,4 - Tellerfeder - Disc spring - Ressort belleville" in the Emco Maximat Super 11 Service Parts manual.

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Go figure ...

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The weight of the thingy is ~1.8kg. / 1000 pcs which boils down to 1.8g /pcs.

That makes for less than 20grs. total shipping weight in small bubble wrap envelope for the 8 pieces needed.

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The problem usually lies with the purveyors.

eg: refusal to sell, minimum quantities, minimum order fees, high prices, shipping costs and handling fees, etc.

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Here is the list of the ones I found on the web and their conditions, in no particular order save for the last one.

There may be more, these are just the ones I found. YMMV.

?

Do bear in mind that some purveyors indistinctly list them as Belleville washers / Disk Springs.

That is something which would make me wary of ordering from them.

?

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McMaster-Carr

94065K64 - US$9.83 / pack of 10

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/disc-springs/system-of-measurement~metric/springs-1~/belleville-disc-springs-for-ball-bearings/id~20-4-mm/thickness~0-4-mm/od~34-6-mm/

Does not sell or ship outside the US

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Schnorr

242 800

https://www.schnorr-group.com/en/products/disc-springs/standard-disc-springs

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MW Components
BB-6003 - US$2.53 ea.

https://www.mwcomponents.com/shop/bb-6003cs

https://www.mwcomponents.com/shop/bb-6003cs/specs?variant=2027227

US$15.00 min fee

Ships only via FedEx

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Springmasters UK

P34620404

https://www.springmasters.com/product-category/disc-springs/pre-load-disc-springs/?filter_thick=0-4&filter_outside-dia=34-6&filter_disc-type=plain-type

Minimum charge of ?15 plus carriage, packing & VAT.

Minimum order per item ?2.50.

Minimum order for overseas customers ?50 / US$100

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Tevema
S83486 - €1.47ea.

https://webshop.tevema.com/gb/s83486

Minimum order €50

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These other purveyors did not have the specified metric size:

https://shop.spirol.com/viewitems/disc-springs/disc-springs-to-din-en-16983

?

Fabory

https://www.fabory.com/en_GB/search?text=disk+springs

?

Mubea

https://mubea-discsprings.com/disc-spring-catalog/

?

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?

?

The best price, conditions, customer service (+ overall willingness to help) was found here:

?

https://shop.lesjofors.com/welcome

5033 - 0.89 EUR/pcs

https://shop.lesjofors.com/nl/en-US/all-products/disc-springs-washers/dsl-346x204x04-5033/

?

They sell them on-line and do so whether you buy one or 1000 with none of the usual BS found elsewhere.

?

The problem is that they only sell to these countries and ship via courier: ?

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Ron, that is a very good suggestion.? My Atlas 6 Inch or 618 lathe has one mounted on the compound. I think it could be adapted but it may involve lengthening the screw using one of the methods you described. Replacing the word adjustable to resettable unintentionally caused two threads on the same subject. The first one has the link you posted and am headed there to check it out. I will be more careful in the future. Thank You, Frank?

FWIW, I just had the thought that perhaps a "good" option to put a bushing on the cross slide might be to use/make a . Mounted and clamped, the cross slide could be easily hand tapped.

?

Ron

Frank here is the link to the . The thread has two drawings, one in a posting by the creator, the second is a PDF CAD drawing.

I found my ¡°Satin Chrome¡± Resettable dial¡±. I measured the OD and it is ¡°1.300¡± diameter. I am not sure yet if it is an appropriate size for the Unimat DB200 but it sure functions nicely. At least it can serve as a model that can be downsized to fit the Unimat. As I develop a working model I will make dimensional sketches.

Dick

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FWIW. Bear with me while I provide some background.

?

I have a Logan 10" lathe. Because of the design of the micrometer dial, it's not possible to remove remove all of the backlash in the cross slide or the compound. Options to correct this is a sub-hobby. As well as YouTube Mr. Pete, Mark of Winky's Workshop made a screw extension, necessary to move the large dial from under the compound, and new dials. There are examples on Hobby Machinist of some Southbend work.

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Here are my "KISS" thoughts, and after this one can get as complicated as one desires all the way up to George H. Thomas' designs in The Model Engineers Workshop Manual and The Shop Wisdom of D.E. Johnson being the two I have on hand.

?

Look at Taig, Shirling, any small lathe or after market dials. Pick one. Make a index ring the same diameter. If you want to get really fancy, you can put a Vernier scale on it. Larger lathes usually have a screw bushing passing through the apron that's a convenient place to set screw the index plate too.. I suspect one could simply Locktite it to the face of the cross slide carrier if you don't want to tap it. This where if you want cusom dials you look at saw blade indexing etc. for the numbers, number stamp guides, etc., and go for it.

?

The dial carrier below is classic Bridgeport table wye micrometer carrier. I like it because it rotates with the screw and the carrier pinches the dial so no need to sacrifice a number for a set screw. Turn one to carry your new dial. Put a well on the back side for an Oilite bearing as the carrier needs to rotate with the screw.

?

Now a couple of options to extend the screw if needed. If you can find a coupling nut the correct size, Locktite it to the original screw. If you found a coupling nut, you can find high quality threaded rod for how ever much extension you need to pass through your dial carrier and hold the handle nutted on both sides. Otherwise simply tap the end of a rod, get your length as covered, and thread the handle end. You can Locktite them together, or put a roll pin through the shop made thread and coupler. I wouldn't put a roll pin through the original screw shaft.

?

If an extended screw was needed, attach the carrier to the screw with Locktite a roll pin. Because the carrier is attached to the shop made screw extension, no worries about the roll pin vs. a woodruff key as the pin can be taken out and worse case a new screw extension made.

?

Now the carrier can be tightened down against the Oilite bearing to remove any backlash independent of the dial. Install the dial, put on the handle, and it's retaining nut.

?

This is also where you can make a bearing carrying bushing to press fit into the end of the cross slide. It can be screwed in, but on this size lathe I don't see any advantage.

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Just my $.02, feel free to offer constructive critism.

?

?

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Not too hard to make, needs to slip over the rod/thread extension. For my Logan I simply sleeved it and plan to use a roll pin to attach it to the screw extension..

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When I replied in the original message, I changed one word in the Subject and thought it would do just that. Turns out it started a new one without the original content. There is always something to learn about these forums. So, what I am going to try do is copy My original content to this reply just in case someone reads only this one and does not know how it was started.?

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I am interested in either purchasing or making a set of adjustable handwheels for a DB 200 lathe. in searching the forum there were some posts mentioning that there were some being made and sold in the past. It does not seem like anyone is making or selling them presently. A dial indicator is very accurate and have used them. At this point I am not interested in installing and using a DRO, maybe in the future. I prefer adjustable dials because they are common and convenient. All of the equipment in my shop have dials that use a set screw to move and lock manually. There is one exception, a small bench mill that has the friction type. ?A search through the Files section did not yield much information as to how to make them. ?An article in ME Workshop (Feb.2006) has plans for a set to use on a Unimat 3. They are kind of large 1/3/4" in diameter but may work on a DB. Just curious if anyone has made and used them. Also, any information or plans to make a set would be greatly appreciated. ?Thank You, Frank?

Elliot, Thank You for the link. I just finished viewing all four of his videos. The sawblade indexer and number stamping jig are very clever and will work fine for this kind of project. The Logan and some of my machines use an insert piece for the main alignment line and also provide a thrust bearing surface. Unfortunately, the little Unimat uses the casting surface and is machined to a small diameter that mates with the dial.? Maybe an insert could be made with a larger face and then be fitted into the cross-feed casting. A resettable sleeve could then be made to fit over the existing dial to match the insert like the videos show. I am not sure about the tailstock and leadscrew. The cross feed would be the most useful. Also, Dick used the word Resettable (which seems more appropriate instead of Adjustable). I inserted it into this reply title and hope it works. It would still be nice and convenient to purchase one already made, but not necessary.? Frank? ? ?

Wow, that is just incredible. Such precision, and a great video production.

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I¡¯m going to have to watch the rest of his videos now!

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Thanks Elliot.