Re: Looking for some help.
On Tue, Sep 10, 2024 at 11:46 PM, Jim Korman wrote:
Here you go - along with a quick drawing
?
?
Just a couple of things to note. The eccentricity is not dimensioned on the drawing, but everything points to it being 10 mm, so a 20 mm throw. Also note the radial hole just visible in this picture:
?
https://www.doublemountainview.us/shopwork/unimat/eccentric/20240910_170819.jpg
?
Presumably this is a tommy bar hole (so 4 mm diameter) to help in getting it off.
?
Also note that the 12 mm thread is actually M12 × 1, although you may be already tooled up for that. Since the hole does not have the clearance for the plain 12 mm portion of the spindle you may have to watch the depth of the threaded hole to control the position of the eccentric. Or you could add washers or other packing to make sure it lines up with the connecting link. Just something to keep an eye on.
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Re: 795, 895 (etc) DC motors
Hi Gang:
There are two
risks as cutting speed goes up: 1) heat, the tool bit
temperature will pass the tool steel's tempering point and will
"burn" up the cutter. Carbide can cut red hot chips, High Speed
Steel, not so much. 2) Chip Welding, the cut material will melt
and start to weld to the cutter, and sometimes the work piece.
Too slow can
be a problem, but the consciences are not so bad.
Carl.
On 9/10/2024 10:54 PM, Keith S. Angus
wrote:
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I'd say the one on the left was done at a higher cutting
speed.
?
However, you are cutting hard brass, which is the easiest
stuff to cut. In the comparison of machinability hard brass is
the 100% that all other materials are compared to. Try the same
test with soft brass, say gilding metal with a much higher
copper content and no lead, or a soft aluminium alloy, and it
might be a different matter. Of course, given the choice, we
would all look for the better alloys for machining. That means
mainly going for the leaded alloys. I have some small bars of
titanium on the shelf - waiting to see how that machines. Also
the more corrosion resistant grades of stainless can be a pain,
although I believe the machinability is better these days,
probably from tighter control of the composition and any heat
treatment. The modern NC machines need a consistent quality to
get reliable results, and so I have found various bar ends being
sold off at reasonable prices for machinable metals.
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Re: Looking for some help.
Hi Keith:
I have a SL
that is great for the small jobs. I also have a Smithy Granite
13x24 that is better for the larger work. But the Unimat is the
go to tool for drilling small holes and I have made a base so I
can use it with the Granite as a live spindle for second
operations.
I offered it
for sale years ago and am very glad the deal never went
through!!
Carl.
On 9/10/2024 11:14 PM, Keith S. Angus
wrote:
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I would just say that the old DB/SL is pleasantly versatile
in use, and I often returned to it with a sigh of relief after
working with some of the other small lathes that are around. I
now use a U3 and it is OK for small work, which is exactly what
I got it for. Having got used to having machines which I can
simply put away after use makes me look at bigger machines and
wonder where I would put them - they'd be in the way most of the
time. The C0 is, I believe, closely related to the U3, so I
would imagine (hope) it is equally useful. My SL was not
expensive - in fact I sold it once, and then my brother bought
it back again purely for some of the accessories that would fit
his bigger lathe and he gave me the bits he didn't want. I got
more back than I originally sold. I then used it for a few years
making small parts for Ferrari (not for the cars) which earned
me ?10000 a year, so I have a fondness for them. However the SL
has gone to Australia in my nephews luggage - how many lathes
can you just pop in your suitcase along with your other
belongings - and I find the U3 is doing everything I want it to
at the moment. But it wouldn't be adaptable enough to do the
Ferrari job if it came up again.
?
I think if you had a DB/SL and had got used to it you would
find it useful to keep it around, even if you have a assortment
of other machines.
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Re: Looking for some help.
I would just say that the old DB/SL is pleasantly versatile in use, and I often returned to it with a sigh of relief after working with some of the other small lathes that are around. I now use a U3 and it is OK for small work, which is exactly what I got it for. Having got used to having machines which I can simply put away after use makes me look at bigger machines and wonder where I would put them - they'd be in the way most of the time. The C0 is, I believe, closely related to the U3, so I would imagine (hope) it is equally useful. My SL was not expensive - in fact I sold it once, and then my brother bought it back again purely for some of the accessories that would fit his bigger lathe and he gave me the bits he didn't want. I got more back than I originally sold. I then used it for a few years making small parts for Ferrari (not for the cars) which earned me ?10000 a year, so I have a fondness for them. However the SL has gone to Australia in my nephews luggage - how many lathes can you just pop in your suitcase along with your other belongings - and I find the U3 is doing everything I want it to at the moment. But it wouldn't be adaptable enough to do the Ferrari job if it came up again.
?
I think if you had a DB/SL and had got used to it you would find it useful to keep it around, even if you have a assortment of other machines.
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Re: 795, 895 (etc) DC motors
I'd say the one on the left was done at a higher cutting speed.
?
However, you are cutting hard brass, which is the easiest stuff to cut. In the comparison of machinability hard brass is the 100% that all other materials are compared to. Try the same test with soft brass, say gilding metal with a much higher copper content and no lead, or a soft aluminium alloy, and it might be a different matter. Of course, given the choice, we would all look for the better alloys for machining. That means mainly going for the leaded alloys. I have some small bars of titanium on the shelf - waiting to see how that machines. Also the more corrosion resistant grades of stainless can be a pain, although I believe the machinability is better these days, probably from tighter control of the composition and any heat treatment. The modern NC machines need a consistent quality to get reliable results, and so I have found various bar ends being sold off at reasonable prices for machinable metals.
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Re: Looking for some help.
Jim,
Thank you for these.? Exactly what I was looking for.
?
Jim
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Re: Looking for some help.
On Tue, Sep 10, 2024 at 12:34 PM, James Quick wrote:
I have seen the drawings that are in the files section for the Table saw arbor, and the ones that are there for the eccentric, but I am wondering if anyone would be willing to take a couple of photos of the actual eccentric and provide the measurements (I would like the original one that is counter balanced) Also the Center-to-center distance between the spindle center and drive pin center, which I think is 5mm?? If anyone has pictures or drawings of the table saw mounting bar I would appreciate it.
Here you go - along with a quick drawing
?
--
Jim Korman
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Re: Looking for some help.
If I would suggest anything for anyone to buy in a small lathe, it would be a Sherline.? For lathe work, I feel that it is better than a Unimat.? It does not have all of the accessories, but the vertical milling column is superior to the Uni.? Now of course you will be paying new prices.? But Sherline has something on sale each month.? If you are willing to spend, there is a head that directly takes ER16s and one for 3Cs (1/2" through the head).
For me, it is very important that it is still made in the US.? I am very disappointed that so many of our products and our jobs have been sent to China and Mexico.
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Re: Looking for some help.
Hi Charles, I get that, collectors and rarity drive up prices but that's not of any interest or practical use to me. I look at a lathe as a tool. The condition of that tool is important for sure but also the practicality of it ! What diameter can it swing, How deep a cut can it achieve. What materials can it realistically handle. Of course price is a consideration as well so when you compare a Unimat to a Sieg I think the Unimat starts to show some weakness in its construction and choice of material and design. It has a niche for certain and I am drawn to them for the compact form factor but the price v performance is not very good IMHO. Id love to own one but I have a Sieg C0 that does me for the Mini - Small stuff and I've a Zyto and ML7 for the Small - Medium Range of Items i need to swing. I think the Emco's would be better for the Micro - Mini items I guess but I've never used one and I'm not going to pay a silly price for one so I guess I never will. However even in that range I'm sure a proper watchmakers Lathe would perform better and I realize there prices are even more ridiculous. Oh well. Guess i need a lottery win :) Kind Regards.
On Tuesday, 10 September 2024 at 19:55:35 BST, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
Something's "worth" is not what one individual thinks (except to that individual) whether it be something exceptionally low (usually a buyer) or exceptionally high (usually a seller).? Rather, it is what the "market" thinks.? The market price being set by how many are offered, and how many want it, and how badly.? And, especially once something is a collectible, its condition can be a very nonlinear contributor to a higher price.
Sometimes, things end up in a Goodwill store or garage sale where somebody selling does not know the market price.? And there is a bargain.? Or sometimes who are sometimes called "widows and orphans" sell things not knowing their real value and somebody takes advantage of that.? But most decent Unimats and decent accessories, especially some of the rare accessories, have what I would call a pretty high market value.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Tuesday, September 10, 2024 at 11:28:04 AM PDT, clankennedy2004 via groups.io <clankennedy2004@...> wrote:
TBF Thats about all a Unimat is worth ! Id say ?50 is about on the money. I have NO IDEA why people pay Hundreds for this little lathe. Its Crazy
On Tuesday, 10 September 2024 at 19:19:39 BST, Alan Ehrlich <alan.ehrlich@...> wrote:
Fret saw: beware, there are at least two different size eccentrics, depending on which saw you have, earlier or later
First found that out when I purchased one online for my early saw and turned out it didn’t fit because it was for the later one.
?Friendly regards,? Alan
On 10 Sep 2024, at 19:59, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
If that is the case, you have to change your name from "Quick" to "Almost on time"
???
I know you all are going to hate me for this, but I was able to purchase a Unimat Jigsaw/fret saw at an estate sale for $4.00 and a Unimat Table saw at the same sale for $3.00 (I later found the fence, miter gage, and blade guards in different rooms for
$.50 each so $4.50 total).? I was unable to locate the eccentric drive for the jigsaw or the blade arbor for the table saw anywhere, so I need to make them.? I also could not find the Mounting bar for the table saw.
?
I have seen the drawings that are in the files section for the Table saw arbor, and the ones that are there for the eccentric, but I am wondering if anyone would be willing to take a couple of photos of the actual eccentric and provide the measurements
(I would like the original one that is counter balanced) Also the Center-to-center distance between the spindle center and drive pin center, which I think is 5mm?? If anyone has pictures or drawings of the table saw mounting bar I would appreciate it.
?
Thanks in advance!
?
BTW, there was a Unimat lathe, and boxes of Unimat accessories at this sale that I was unable to get because they were sold by the time I got in the door.? The Unimat lathe went for $65.00 and most accessories were $3.00 each
?
?
<fretsaw2.jpg> <FretSaw.jpg> ?
Jim in Minnesota
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Re: 795, 895 (etc) DC motors
There is some combination of speed, feed, and depth of cut that will be most effective for the material, cutter type & material, and desired finish. Which is only important for those who are doing production for profit. Which is what all these tables are intended for.? They are written & calculated for much larger, heavier, and stiffer machinery. Which isn't any of the Unimat lathes. So it's? important for some folks on machines unlike those this group is intended for. I have some machines closer to that sort of machine than my Unimats, but I'm still not in a production for profit mode, so don't need them.? Won't hurt me to use them until I have enough experience to know what my machines can get away with. Won't? hurt those of us who are just getting started with Unimats. Won't be very useful to us because our machines are so much lighter, more flexible, and less powerful than production machines.? Unless you've CNC'd your Unimat you'll be able to feel, hear, and see how it's cutting. CNC'd machines will lose you that feel. You will be able to see and hear them. In either case you'll eventually learn what a happy or unhappy machine is like.?
Bill in OKC? ? William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, September 10, 2024 at 12:45:20 PM CDT, John Hutnick <johnhutnick@...> wrote:
We discuss cutting speeds an awful lot.? I more or less do nor believe.? As a speed test, I put a 1/4" milling cutter in a Cowells mill.? I had a brass block with a rough edge.? I made one cut at the machine's highest speed.? Then I turned it down to a much lower speed than I would normally use.? So which cut left or right is fast and slow?? For my purposes in model trains it more or less doesn't matter.
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Re: Looking for some help.
Something's "worth" is not what one individual thinks (except to that individual) whether it be something exceptionally low (usually a buyer) or exceptionally high (usually a seller).? Rather, it is what the "market" thinks.? The market price being set by how many are offered, and how many want it, and how badly.? And, especially once something is a collectible, its condition can be a very nonlinear contributor to a higher price.
Sometimes, things end up in a Goodwill store or garage sale where somebody selling does not know the market price.? And there is a bargain.? Or sometimes who are sometimes called "widows and orphans" sell things not knowing their real value and somebody takes advantage of that.? But most decent Unimats and decent accessories, especially some of the rare accessories, have what I would call a pretty high market value.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Tuesday, September 10, 2024 at 11:28:04 AM PDT, clankennedy2004 via groups.io <clankennedy2004@...> wrote:
TBF Thats about all a Unimat is worth ! Id say ?50 is about on the money. I have NO IDEA why people pay Hundreds for this little lathe. Its Crazy
On Tuesday, 10 September 2024 at 19:19:39 BST, Alan Ehrlich <alan.ehrlich@...> wrote:
Fret saw: beware, there are at least two different size eccentrics, depending on which saw you have, earlier or later
First found that out when I purchased one online for my early saw and turned out it didn’t fit because it was for the later one.
?Friendly regards,? Alan
On 10 Sep 2024, at 19:59, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
If that is the case, you have to change your name from "Quick" to "Almost on time"
???
I know you all are going to hate me for this, but I was able to purchase a Unimat Jigsaw/fret saw at an estate sale for $4.00 and a Unimat Table saw at the same sale for $3.00 (I later found the fence, miter gage, and blade guards in different rooms for
$.50 each so $4.50 total).? I was unable to locate the eccentric drive for the jigsaw or the blade arbor for the table saw anywhere, so I need to make them.? I also could not find the Mounting bar for the table saw.
?
I have seen the drawings that are in the files section for the Table saw arbor, and the ones that are there for the eccentric, but I am wondering if anyone would be willing to take a couple of photos of the actual eccentric and provide the measurements
(I would like the original one that is counter balanced) Also the Center-to-center distance between the spindle center and drive pin center, which I think is 5mm?? If anyone has pictures or drawings of the table saw mounting bar I would appreciate it.
?
Thanks in advance!
?
BTW, there was a Unimat lathe, and boxes of Unimat accessories at this sale that I was unable to get because they were sold by the time I got in the door.? The Unimat lathe went for $65.00 and most accessories were $3.00 each
?
?
<fretsaw2.jpg> <FretSaw.jpg> ?
Jim in Minnesota
|
Re: Looking for some help.
TBF Thats about all a Unimat is worth ! Id say ?50 is about on the money. I have NO IDEA why people pay Hundreds for this little lathe. Its Crazy
On Tuesday, 10 September 2024 at 19:19:39 BST, Alan Ehrlich <alan.ehrlich@...> wrote:
Fret saw: beware, there are at least two different size eccentrics, depending on which saw you have, earlier or later
First found that out when I purchased one online for my early saw and turned out it didn’t fit because it was for the later one.
?Friendly regards,? Alan
On 10 Sep 2024, at 19:59, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
If that is the case, you have to change your name from "Quick" to "Almost on time"
???
I know you all are going to hate me for this, but I was able to purchase a Unimat Jigsaw/fret saw at an estate sale for $4.00 and a Unimat Table saw at the same sale for $3.00 (I later found the fence, miter gage, and blade guards in different rooms for
$.50 each so $4.50 total).? I was unable to locate the eccentric drive for the jigsaw or the blade arbor for the table saw anywhere, so I need to make them.? I also could not find the Mounting bar for the table saw.
?
I have seen the drawings that are in the files section for the Table saw arbor, and the ones that are there for the eccentric, but I am wondering if anyone would be willing to take a couple of photos of the actual eccentric and provide the measurements
(I would like the original one that is counter balanced) Also the Center-to-center distance between the spindle center and drive pin center, which I think is 5mm?? If anyone has pictures or drawings of the table saw mounting bar I would appreciate it.
?
Thanks in advance!
?
BTW, there was a Unimat lathe, and boxes of Unimat accessories at this sale that I was unable to get because they were sold by the time I got in the door.? The Unimat lathe went for $65.00 and most accessories were $3.00 each
?
?
<fretsaw2.jpg> <FretSaw.jpg> ?
Jim in Minnesota
|
Re: Looking for some help.
Fret saw: beware, there are at least two different size eccentrics, depending on which saw you have, earlier or later
First found that out when I purchased one online for my early saw and turned out it didn’t fit because it was for the later one.
?Friendly regards,? Alan
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 10 Sep 2024, at 19:59, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
If that is the case, you have to change your name from "Quick" to "Almost on time"
???
I know you all are going to hate me for this, but I was able to purchase a Unimat Jigsaw/fret saw at an estate sale for $4.00 and a Unimat Table saw at the same sale for $3.00 (I later found the fence, miter gage, and blade guards in different rooms for
$.50 each so $4.50 total).? I was unable to locate the eccentric drive for the jigsaw or the blade arbor for the table saw anywhere, so I need to make them.? I also could not find the Mounting bar for the table saw.
?
I have seen the drawings that are in the files section for the Table saw arbor, and the ones that are there for the eccentric, but I am wondering if anyone would be willing to take a couple of photos of the actual eccentric and provide the measurements
(I would like the original one that is counter balanced) Also the Center-to-center distance between the spindle center and drive pin center, which I think is 5mm?? If anyone has pictures or drawings of the table saw mounting bar I would appreciate it.
?
Thanks in advance!
?
BTW, there was a Unimat lathe, and boxes of Unimat accessories at this sale that I was unable to get because they were sold by the time I got in the door.? The Unimat lathe went for $65.00 and most accessories were $3.00 each
?
?
<fretsaw2.jpg> <FretSaw.jpg> ?
Jim in Minnesota
|
Re: Looking for some help.
If that is the case, you have to change your name from "Quick" to "Almost on time"
???
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I know you all are going to hate me for this, but I was able to purchase a Unimat Jigsaw/fret saw at an estate sale for $4.00 and a Unimat Table saw at the same sale for $3.00 (I later found the fence, miter gage, and blade guards in different rooms for
$.50 each so $4.50 total).? I was unable to locate the eccentric drive for the jigsaw or the blade arbor for the table saw anywhere, so I need to make them.? I also could not find the Mounting bar for the table saw.
?
I have seen the drawings that are in the files section for the Table saw arbor, and the ones that are there for the eccentric, but I am wondering if anyone would be willing to take a couple of photos of the actual eccentric and provide the measurements
(I would like the original one that is counter balanced) Also the Center-to-center distance between the spindle center and drive pin center, which I think is 5mm?? If anyone has pictures or drawings of the table saw mounting bar I would appreciate it.
?
Thanks in advance!
?
BTW, there was a Unimat lathe, and boxes of Unimat accessories at this sale that I was unable to get because they were sold by the time I got in the door.? The Unimat lathe went for $65.00 and most accessories were $3.00 each
?
?
?
Jim in Minnesota
|
Re: 795, 895 (etc) DC motors
We discuss cutting speeds an awful lot.? I more or less do nor believe.? As a speed test, I put a 1/4" milling cutter in a Cowells mill.? I had a brass block with a rough edge.? I made one cut at the machine's highest speed.? Then I turned it down to a much lower speed than I would normally use.? So which cut left or right is fast and slow?? For my purposes in model trains it more or less doesn't matter.
|
I know you all are going to hate me for this, but I was able to purchase a Unimat Jigsaw/fret saw at an estate sale for $4.00 and a Unimat Table saw at the same sale for $3.00 (I later found the fence, miter gage, and blade guards in different rooms for $.50 each so $4.50 total).? I was unable to locate the eccentric drive for the jigsaw or the blade arbor for the table saw anywhere, so I need to make them.? I also could not find the Mounting bar for the table saw.
?
I have seen the drawings that are in the files section for the Table saw arbor, and the ones that are there for the eccentric, but I am wondering if anyone would be willing to take a couple of photos of the actual eccentric and provide the measurements (I would like the original one that is counter balanced) Also the Center-to-center distance between the spindle center and drive pin center, which I think is 5mm?? If anyone has pictures or drawings of the table saw mounting bar I would appreciate it.
?
Thanks in advance!
?
BTW, there was a Unimat lathe, and boxes of Unimat accessories at this sale that I was unable to get because they were sold by the time I got in the door.? The Unimat lathe went for $65.00 and most accessories were $3.00 each
?
?
?
Jim in Minnesota
|
Can you share some pictures? I'd like to see that implementation.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Keith,
I got rid of the two DB200 motors I had. Too noisy for me. Replaced them with DC scooter moters instead. Much more quiet and variable speed and reversing as well.?
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL
TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE
TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE
CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL
QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK
CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI
LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
Keith,
I got rid of the two DB200 motors I had. Too noisy for me. Replaced them with DC scooter moters instead. Much more quiet and variable speed and reversing as well.?
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
On Sun, Sep 8, 2024 at 02:19 PM, phill005 wrote:
the two stage switch only worked in? #2
For the lower speed power is fed via a diode, so giving the motor half the voltage, although that doesn't mean it runs at half the speed. Often the diode blows and low speed no longer works. It's not hard to fit a suitable diode, but that doesn't explain nasty goo around the brushed. Something else going on there. My experience with the SL motors was that the brushes end gets hotter than the rest of the motor. Maybe the whole thing has overheated.
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Well the clean-up went well stripped it all down got the dremel with a fine brush to clean up the rust area's and it worked well put a light coating of grease over all moving parts for now, but when came time to power up I got a flash/bang on 1st inspection the two stage switch only worked in? #2 so opened the motor and there was some black liquid at the brush end how that got in I have no idea and if I was looking to change the bearings that seems hard work they are only brass bushes so good time to bin it and fit a 24V or the 180V me thinks.
I had concern's when I first saw the rust under the motor reason for saying "Sad state" that turned out to be true.
?
Phill
?
|
Carl
Jim Korman
Bill in OKC too
OldToolmaker