K&S brass is dreadful stuff to machine - I wouldn't touch the stuff. CZ121 is far better.
Keith - where can you get tiny (.5mm tip) centre drills in the UK please? I could do with one when drilling and reaming .97mm holes in small train wheels.
Paul B.
On Monday 17 June 2024 at 20:46:57 BST, Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:
On Mon, Jun 17, 2024 at 04:11 AM, Tamra wrote:
some of the brass I had from K & S did not seem like it was 260 brass as it machined quite differently
I bought some K&S brass bar and found it was a pig to drill. I finally realised that it was not the hard brass that I wanted (known to me as CZ121) but was gilding metal, which is the softest brass, and far from free machining - but great for shaping, bending and general pulling about. I then discovered 2021 free machining aluminium and used that. So I now avoid K&S materials when the particular alloy will matter. And it always matters when machining. Another thing that would help with your drilling problem is to start the hole with a centre drill. One with a tip the same size, or a little smaller, as the final hole you want to drill. I have centre drills with tips down to 0.5 mm. For all I know even smaller ones are available. They are designed not to wobble as you start the hole.?
|
I was selling Polyurethane belts for a few years on eBay but finally gave up due to domestic work, mainly garden, took over. Dimensions I used were : ? UNIMAT SL? (dimensions before welding) 310mm and 205mm for the two standard belts
224mm for the Slow Speed. ? UNIMAT 3 & 4 (dimensions before welding)
280mm and 228mm for standard belts
143mm for power feed attachment (3.5mm belting) ? ML-210 VERSIONS OF TOYO, RECORD POWER, PROXXON, SAKAY? 296mm, 275mm and 254mm for standard belts 235mm for Power Feed (3.5mm belting) ? All the above were 5mm belting except for the Power Feed belts marked at 3.5mm. ? It seemed that users wanted the 5mm material, but I use 4mm belting on my SL as it fits the pulleys better than the 5mm and is more than capable of coping with with the cuts I make. ? Don¡¯t make them any longer but you can check my? feedback on eBay? ¡° SILVERLDZ ¡° ? Bernard ? ? ? ?
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From: AndreiSent: 18 June 2024 15:48 To: [email protected]; jentwistle3@...Subject: Re: [Unimat] DB/SL Belt Sizes? ? Has anybody actually measured the o-rings to determine the correct size for the belts, or are we all operating from second hand information? 
cool, thanks! ?
On Jun 18, 2024, at 12:22?AM, Peter ashby via groups.io <aescinga.pgen@...> wrote:
? When I join polypropylene? belting material for the smaller sizes(2mm) I cut a vee notch in a pair of pliers- on the ends of the jaws, heat up the end of the belts then close the pliers, this brings the ends together and you should have a donut section that's thicker at the join, trim this off carefully when it's hard with a pair of side cutters and you should get a perfect join, this should also work with thicker belts, that or use a vee groove to keep? the belts aligned? as you slide them together. ?
how do you stick the ends together I¡¯ve not had much success with ¡°o ring¡± kits
On Jun 17, 2024, at 4:02?PM, byron williams <bdkwilliams@...> wrote:
? Hi guys I used to buy o rings belt properly made belts, then the ? came on!! I now buy 5-6mm polypropylene from any plastic company on line, cut it and melt it together any length,? A bit of a job to start off, but after a bit I got it to work fine? I now have belts for any combination including the power feed
On 17 Jun 2024, at 20:01, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
? Those sizes sound very small. My SL1000 uses a? 341 O-ring. The size you quote is very far off what I saw on my lathe.? 
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
?
|
Has anybody actually measured the o-rings to determine the correct size for the belts, or are we all operating from second hand information?
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cool, thanks!
On Jun 18, 2024, at 12:22?AM, Peter ashby via groups.io <aescinga.pgen@...> wrote:
?
When I join polypropylene? belting material for the smaller sizes(2mm) I cut a vee notch in a pair of pliers- on the ends of the jaws, heat up the end of the belts then close the pliers, this brings the ends together and you should have a donut
section that's thicker at the join, trim this off carefully when it's hard with a pair of side cutters and you should get a perfect join, this should also work with thicker belts, that or use a vee groove to keep? the belts aligned? as you slide them together.
how do you stick the ends together I¡¯ve not had much success with ¡°o ring¡± kits
On Jun 17, 2024, at 4:02?PM, byron williams <bdkwilliams@...> wrote:
? Hi guys
I used to buy o rings belt properly made belts, then the ? came on!!
I now buy 5-6mm polypropylene from any plastic company on line, cut it and melt it together any length,?
A bit of a job to start off, but after a bit I got it to work fine?
I now have belts for any combination including the power feed
Byron
On 17 Jun 2024, at 20:01, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
Those sizes sound very small. My SL1000 uses a? 341 O-ring.
The size you quote is very far off what I saw on my lathe.?
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
|
I have been trying to adjust my Unimat cross slide for a nice smooth movement. The adjustment is somewhat sloppy.
Can anyone shed some light on the adjustment?
Dick
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
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Show quoted text
On Jun 18, 2024, at 12:22?AM, Peter ashby via groups.io <aescinga.pgen@...> wrote: ? When I join polypropylene? belting material for the smaller sizes(2mm) I cut a vee notch in a pair of pliers- on the ends of the jaws, heat up the end of the belts then close the pliers, this brings the ends together and you should have a donut section that's thicker at the join, trim this off carefully when it's hard with a pair of side cutters and you should get a perfect join, this should also work with thicker belts, that or use a vee groove to keep? the belts aligned? as you slide them together.
how do you stick the ends together I¡¯ve not had much success with ¡°o ring¡± kits
On Jun 17, 2024, at 4:02?PM, byron williams <bdkwilliams@...> wrote:
?
Hi guys
I used to buy o rings belt properly made belts, then the ? came on!!
I now buy 5-6mm polypropylene from any plastic company on line, cut it and melt it together any length,?
A bit of a job to start off, but after a bit I got it to work fine?
I now have belts for any combination including the power feed
Byron
On 17 Jun 2024, at 20:01, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
Those sizes sound very small. My SL1000 uses a? 341 O-ring.
The size you quote is very far off what I saw on my lathe.?
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
|
When I join polypropylene? belting material for the smaller sizes(2mm) I cut a vee notch in a pair of pliers- on the ends of the jaws, heat up the end of the belts then close the pliers, this brings the ends together and you should have a donut section that's thicker at the join, trim this off carefully when it's hard with a pair of side cutters and you should get a perfect join, this should also work with thicker belts, that or use a vee groove to keep? the belts aligned? as you slide them together.
how do you stick the ends together I¡¯ve not had much success with ¡°o ring¡± kits
On Jun 17, 2024, at 4:02?PM, byron williams <bdkwilliams@...> wrote:
?
Hi guys
I used to buy o rings belt properly made belts, then the ? came on!!
I now buy 5-6mm polypropylene from any plastic company on line, cut it and melt it together any length,?
A bit of a job to start off, but after a bit I got it to work fine?
I now have belts for any combination including the power feed
Byron
On 17 Jun 2024, at 20:01, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
Those sizes sound very small. My SL1000 uses a? 341 O-ring.
The size you quote is very far off what I saw on my lathe.?
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
|
Hi Gang:
High heat when drilling or counter sinking is a symptom of lack of cutting clearance. I always drill the clearance hole before the counter sink, most are not center cutting.?
Center drills are available with the same cone angle as flat head screws.
Carl.
On 06/17/2024 3:46 PM EDT Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...> wrote:
?
?
On Mon, Jun 17, 2024 at 04:11 AM, Tamra wrote:
some of the brass I had from K & S did not seem like it was 260 brass as it machined quite differently
I bought some K&S brass bar and found it was a pig to drill. I finally realised that it was not the hard brass that I wanted (known to me as CZ121) but was gilding metal, which is the softest brass, and far from free machining - but great for shaping, bending and general pulling about. I then discovered 2021 free machining aluminium and used that. So I now avoid K&S materials when the particular alloy will matter. And it always matters when machining.
Another thing that would help with your drilling problem is to start the hole with a centre drill. One with a tip the same size, or a little smaller, as the final hole you want to drill. I have centre drills with tips down to 0.5 mm. For all I know even smaller ones are available. They are designed not to wobble as you start the hole.?
|
how do you stick the ends together I¡¯ve not had much success with ¡°o ring¡± kits
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 17, 2024, at 4:02?PM, byron williams <bdkwilliams@...> wrote: ?
Hi guys
I used to buy o rings belt properly made belts, then the ? came on!!
I now buy 5-6mm polypropylene from any plastic company on line, cut it and melt it together any length,?
A bit of a job to start off, but after a bit I got it to work fine?
I now have belts for any combination including the power feed
Byron
On 17 Jun 2024, at 20:01, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
Those sizes sound very small. My SL1000 uses a? 341 O-ring.
The size you quote is very far off what I saw on my lathe.?
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
|
Hi guys
I used to buy o rings belt properly made belts, then the ? came on!!
I now buy 5-6mm polypropylene from any plastic company on line, cut it and melt it together any length,?
A bit of a job to start off, but after a bit I got it to work fine?
I now have belts for any combination including the power feed
Byron
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 17 Jun 2024, at 20:01, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
Those sizes sound very small. My SL1000 uses a? 341 O-ring.
The size you quote is very far off what I saw on my lathe.?
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
|
On Mon, Jun 17, 2024 at 04:11 AM, Tamra wrote:
some of the brass I had from K & S did not seem like it was 260 brass as it machined quite differently
I bought some K&S brass bar and found it was a pig to drill. I finally realised that it was not the hard brass that I wanted (known to me as CZ121) but was gilding metal, which is the softest brass, and far from free machining - but great for shaping, bending and general pulling about. I then discovered 2021 free machining aluminium and used that. So I now avoid K&S materials when the particular alloy will matter. And it always matters when machining. Another thing that would help with your drilling problem is to start the hole with a centre drill. One with a tip the same size, or a little smaller, as the final hole you want to drill. I have centre drills with tips down to 0.5 mm. For all I know even smaller ones are available. They are designed not to wobble as you start the hole.?
|
Those sizes sound very small. My SL1000 uses a? 341 O-ring.
The size you quote is very far off what I saw on my lathe.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
|
I've bought more than just belts from him. Good guy to deal with, and answers questions by email quick! I've spent a couple hundred dollars with him, and consider every dime of it well spent! Got just about everything I could need to completely overhaul both of my Unimats.
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Monday, June 17, 2024 at 10:44:21 AM CDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
It might have been mentioned on this group before, but a very good source of good quality ready-made belts is at Doug Feistamel's site.? I have bought them and think they are very good.
For Doug Feistanel's offerings, here is his Home page (scroll to the bottom to find links to a lot of info he has there)::
Belt page:
Regarding O-rings:? They come in a varous "durometer" ratings (hardness, also called "shore").? I used to work with O-rings for deep sea pressure vessels where the durometer was important.? I'm sure it is less important if using as a belt, but you probably don't want a real hard one (high durometer).? "Shore 70" is a typical garden variety hardness. So, in addition to a size that works on the Unimat, it would also be useful to know the durometer used.? Also, a lower durometer O-ring will be more stretchable.? For example, on the little Manson Duo lathe (later the Master Lathe), they have one belt that can stretch over one of two adjacent pulley sizes for two speeds.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, June 17, 2024 at 07:42:58 AM PDT, MtnMike <ssullivan556@...> wrote:
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
|
It might have been mentioned on this group before, but a very good source of good quality ready-made belts is at Doug Feistamel's site.? I have bought them and think they are very good.
For Doug Feistanel's offerings, here is his Home page (scroll to the bottom to find links to a lot of info he has there)::
Belt page:
Regarding O-rings:? They come in a varous "durometer" ratings (hardness, also called "shore").? I used to work with O-rings for deep sea pressure vessels where the durometer was important.? I'm sure it is less important if using as a belt, but you probably don't want a real hard one (high durometer).? "Shore 70" is a typical garden variety hardness. So, in addition to a size that works on the Unimat, it would also be useful to know the durometer used.? Also, a lower durometer O-ring will be more stretchable.? For example, on the little Manson Duo lathe (later the Master Lathe), they have one belt that can stretch over one of two adjacent pulley sizes for two speeds.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, June 17, 2024 at 07:42:58 AM PDT, MtnMike <ssullivan556@...> wrote:
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
|
Re: Model Engineering show October 12 - 13, 2024 in Auburn, IN
That's handy. Auburn is only a couple hours and change north of me.
On Sun, Jun 16, 2024 at 10:39 PM, Tamra <tamrabrogdon@...> wrote: Dennis L, the man I got my surface plate from said that there is a new show in Indiana...
I think it is year #2.??
I found this post - perhaps some of the people who previously exhibited in the NAME show in Michigan will attend this event.
The show in Michigan usually conflicted with the International Miniature Show in Chicago in April, and then
I think C-19 had a major effect on the NAME show...so I'm hopeful that I can attend this one, it is a much easier drive.? ?
Tamra
|
Re: Induction Unimat motor?
i happened on one of these, gov surplus. It had Nevada Bureau of Mines stickers and under that is carved USBM Spec. It is fan cooled, 3450 rpm capacitor motor. I am wondering if the pulleys are different to achieve the same spindle speeds or if these turn slower (just posted about o-ring sizes and mine may have been different). Also hoping this is a 100% duty cycle motor. I saw the? capacitor motor is listed as standard on the earliest DB200, below link. Mine looks like a later model due to the centering pin for the headstock (rather than the slot and key). Perhaps there was a special run for the US government?   
|
After trying many o-ring sizes I ended up with the following to fit my DB200:
-227 small drive
-237 large drive
My lathe came with a single o-ring that would work on one of the motor pulleys and the matching spindle pulley. This was:
-241 skip idler
Happy turning!
|
Photos or it didn't happen! Sounds like something I'd really like to see! I'm not likely to ever make a miniature brass bed, but I love seeing how people solve fixturing problems.
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, June 16, 2024 at 10:11:49 PM CDT, Tamra <tamrabrogdon@...> wrote:
Peter, did you get it to work?? I just used a countersink myself, but on plywood and was in the stage of wonder of this simple invention.? I even took a picture with my phone to remind me how to do this on plywood.?? Drilling 260 brass is agreeable.? ? I might have been swearing during the project that some of the brass I had from K & S did not seem like it was 260 brass as it machined quite differently, when I initially started turning brass balls with Taig's radius turner.?? I was drilling 5/32" balls to accept a .072 diameter brass rod and this drill bit 'finally' worked. I did try to re-sharpen my drill bits to a nice point and nothing was working... My brain remembers that I need zero degree rake for maching brass, but I could not accomplish this in a 49 gauge drill bit.? I just reordered more drill bits;? being frustrated and purchasing 2 at a time, to xx for shipping... The latest order that I purchased was visibly without magnification very inconsistent at the tip of the tool bit and that point was very helpful in controlling the drill bit from wobbling, when drilling 5/32" brass balls. I thought the TIN coating worked best for my application, initially I bought 3 to test what worked. I finally created a jig to hold the 5/32" balls and drilled them on my unimat, set up as mill. The blasted 5/32" balls needed 4 holes, 2 sets of holes that a perpendicular to the other 2 holes... it sounded easy, but I am finally close to that goal of making a brass bed.? I hope to have it finished soon, just working on jig to assemble all the little pieces in a perpendicular manner.? Who wants a wonky brass bed?? Not me! It is hot & humid for the next 10 days so I don't know if this is going to get done with this weather.  Tamra
|
Re: ER32 Collet on Unimat
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On Sunday, June 16, 2024, 9:43 PM, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hi Dick:
I think the cone surface was running within 0.001". For the work I do it is fine.?
Carl.
On 06/16/2024 9:56 PM EDT OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...> wrote:
?
?
Thanks,Carl!
?
How accurate are the ER32 collets when the collet adapter is mounted on the Unimat 12mm threaded spindle?
Thanks,?
Dick
?
On Saturday, June 15, 2024, 6:29 AM, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hi Dick.
I think I put photos in the files.
Carl.?
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/
forum/?OFF- SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI- LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
--
http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/?OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972
?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS?
?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS
?MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS
?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS?
?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET
?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION
|
Hi Tamra, no I gave it a quick sharpen with a diamond hone but no difference really... The screw head is a about 8mm across, so it's a fair bit of metal to take out.
The brass gets hot enought to scorch the plywood I was supporting it with, I thought for a minute I was going to have a fire!
So I'll buy a new countersink, a single flute one if I can find it. I've had plenty of experience countersinking wood but metal is something else. Quite a surface area I suppose.
Your tiny brass bed sounds like a tricky job!? I hope you'll post a pic when you get it finished.
(Funny story - we had a doll's house years ago, and had bought some bits and pieces for it, including wallpaper printed on A4 sheets. A friend asked 'Do you cut it into strips to hang it?' Ha ha ha, we've had many a laugh about that over the years :-)
|
Re: tooling website found
I¡¯ve sold my Electronic Lead Screw kit all over the world originating from Canada.? Lowest cost untracked post.? Only one time a kit that went to South Africa never arrived.? I sent a replacement that did.? Almost a year later the lost package came back with a return to sender marking.? So about 100 sold.? None lost.? Many people (including me) still use it.? One day I will put one on my DB-200. John Dammeyer ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dave Seiter
Sent: June 16, 2024 9:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Unimat] tooling website found? Is there a specific reason?? I know I won't ship to Italy and Spain; I've had too many packages that vanish once they get to the local postal service. On Sunday, June 16, 2024 at 09:58:13 AM PDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote: A lot of European companies don't want to ship to USA.?
Interesting and a little off topic but why does Brexit impact dealing / shipping between Europe and UK? would those same places refuse to ship to the US?
On Jun 16, 2024, at 10:56?AM, phill005 via groups.io <phill05@...> wrote:
?Many thanks for the information Re: my first reply "Very interesting site some nice tools also a pity you can't read it in English but then I guess they would not ship to UK". I hope I am wrong they have some good machines and accessories.
I found a guy on here Jeff in USA selling some of the parts I wanted I got him to ship to my niece in Canada then she included them with other things and shipped to UK " a lot of air miles just to get some parts.?
I have had some other companies selling Unimat parts and machines say they did not want to ship to UK because of Brexit, example:? ?Phill
--------------------------------------------------------------------------- Good evening.
I only sell in Europe, not UK. That is too much hassle now with customs and tax ? Op wo 15 mrt 2023 om 15:51 schreef Phill <geen-antwoord@...>:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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OldToolmaker
John Entwistle
Carl
Bill in OKC too
MtnMikes.us