Keyboard Shortcuts
Likes
- Unimat
- Messages
Search
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
开云体育Clickspring always has good videos.? Here’s an example of turning between centers. In this case on the headstock end he mounts the center in the chuck and machines the hex piece to the point.? That makes it perfectly concentric with the lathe axis. ? Also Blondihacks has interesting videos. Here at 6:58 she shows between centers turning. ? I use the technique on my South Bend all the time.? Here to turn a pulley on a custom tapered arbor.? The arbor was made first and a trial fit was done with the original cast pulley. ? ? John ? From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad Barton via groups.io
Sent: May 12, 2024 8:10 AM To: Bill in OKC too; [email protected] Subject: Re: [Unimat] Recommendations for learning the basics ? On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 07:57 AM, Bill in OKC too wrote: Faceplate & lathe dog are used together for turning between centers. That gets you the most accurately made parts your lathe can make.?? ? I'm trying to wrap my brain around the need for the lathe dog, doesn't the chuck do a good enough job holding the stock? The next question that comes to mind is the tooling, should I buy new tooling. It came with a lot but I don't know the condition any of it is in. I might take a picture of just the tooling and get some help of what I have and the use of each type of tool. |
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
On Sun, May 12, 2024 at 07:57 AM, Bill in OKC too wrote:
I'm trying to wrap my brain around the need for the lathe dog, doesn't the chuck do a good enough job holding the stock? The next question that comes to mind is the tooling, should I buy new tooling. It came with a lot but I don't know the condition any of it is in. I might take a picture of just the tooling and get some help of what I have and the use of each type of tool. |
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
Amen to that!? Bill in OKC? William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, May 12, 2024 at 07:55:09 AM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
Don't be afraid to make mistakes. I learned my best lessons from my own fuckups.
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2024 8:38:37 AM To: Brad Barton <[email protected]>; [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [Unimat] Recommendations for learning the basics ?
Brad, Dick |
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
Hi Brad. ?I can't help you with learning the basics as I'm in the same position you are. ?I got my Unimat SL a couple of years ago off Craigslist locally. ?It didn't come with the storage box. ?I also see some other items you have that I don't. ?IF (big if, I understand) you want to offset your initial layout on your Unimat I would absolutely be interested in buying your spare/duplicate items, very much in particular, the storage box.
Thanks for the consideration and good luck with your Unimat! Mike Manning |
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
You have a pair of faceplate, lathe dogs, milling tables & vises, a bearing center, also called, incorrectly, a live center, a pair of 4-jaw chuckes, just off the top of my head. If you see my eyes turning green... :) Faceplate & lathe dog are used together for turning between centers. That gets you the most accurately made parts your lathe can make.?? The bearing center goes in the tailstock while you're turning between centers and a proper live center goes in the headstock. It and the dog drive the part you're turning between centers. Somewhere in your pile of stuff you should have a pair of centers without bearings. Like these:? https://www.ebay.com/itm/135031801391? Technically, a dead center is the one that goes in the tailstock, and was usually hardened, while the live center went in the headstock spindle, and was not hardened. It was "live" because it turned with the spindle and drove the part being turned. The dead center was hard, and got a dab of lubricant (white lead in the old days) and acted as a bearing. Your bearing center will replace it unless you need or want the utmost accuracy. Headstock or live centers were unhardened because they were often trued by taking a light cut on them before mounting the part to be turned.? And it helped that the softer steel gripped the part to be turned a little better.? ? The post and milling? table, and vice(s) allow you to convert the lathe into a vertical milling machine.? The book identifies each part, and gives example of their use. Other books can give you examples of what you can do with the machine. Lots of things!? Over on the right side of the photo is at least part of an "American" or Lantern style toolpost. There should be a rocker with it. Looks sort of like a big, wide, long Woodruff key. They're more versatile that the toolbox that's on the lathe table. But the block tool holders are more rigid, so have other advantages. It's good to have both. This is what complete lantern tool post looks like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/116177138966 Doesn't look like they use a rocker, which will limit it a bit compared to the true American style, but should still work very well with boring bars. Hope this helps you get a start with your machine. They're a very old design, so reading some of the old books on lathe work might help you. Archive.org will have a lot of books. One author to look for is Paul N. Hasluck. Amazon has some newer books, too.?https://www.amazon.com/s?k=milling+machine+books&crid=255LVHP79RQ3S&sprefix=milling+machine+books%2Caps%2C295&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 Search on lathe as well. You'll find way more info than you really want. :) Bill in OKC? William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, May 12, 2024 at 06:44:57 AM CDT, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 10:24 PM, Keith S. Angus wrote:
What accessories do you have with the lathe? Post pictures if you're not sure what they are - we'll soon identify them and explain what they do. Here is a photo of what all came with my purchase along with two original wood storage boxes. There are more than a few duplicate pieces so I think there were two at one time. My interest is in model trains and do work in old brass engines. -Brad |
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
If it takes 3 attempts to make a part then so be it. Every mistake is a learning experience. Paul B.
On Sunday, 12 May 2024 at 13:55:10 BST, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
Don't be afraid to make mistakes. I learned my best lessons from my own fuckups.
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2024 8:38:37 AM To: Brad Barton <[email protected]>; [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [Unimat] Recommendations for learning the basics ?
Brad, Dick |
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
Andrei
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2024 8:38:37 AM To: Brad Barton <[email protected]>; [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [Unimat] Recommendations for learning the basics ?
Brad, Dick |
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
Brad, Dick |
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 12 May 2024, at 13:14, paul b via groups.io <pointfivebsw@...> wrote:
|
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
I have both an SL and a 3. There's info on my blog covering both machines and the accessories that I've acquired for them as well as the use I've put them too which is small scale model railway stuff. SL posts here:? Unimat 3 posts here:? General machining here:? There's a lot to wade through, and some overlap as well, but hopefully you'll get some ideas on what you can do (and maybe do better!). Paul B., in the UK.
On Sunday, 12 May 2024 at 12:44:58 BST, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 10:24 PM, Keith S. Angus wrote: What accessories do you have with the lathe? Post pictures if you're not sure what they are - we'll soon identify them and explain what they do. Here is a photo of what all came with my purchase along with two original wood storage boxes. There are more than a few duplicate pieces so I think there were two at one time. My interest is in model trains and do work in old brass engines. -Brad |
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
On Sat, May 11, 2024 at 10:24 PM, Keith S. Angus wrote:
What accessories do you have with the lathe? Post pictures if you're not sure what they are - we'll soon identify them and explain what they do. Here is a photo of what all came with my purchase along with two original wood storage boxes. There are more than a few duplicate pieces so I think there were two at one time. My interest is in model trains and do work in old brass engines. -Brad |
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
Also have a look in the Files section here. You will find the original handbooks for the DB/SL which include basic machining information. Note that the DB is an earlier version of the SL, and there have been various design changes over the many years of production. However the basic machining techniques remain much the same on all of them, on all lathes of comparable size, and on many machines much bigger. Have a look at them alongside any videos and they will help to understand what's going on.
An original Unimat manual, including a full spare parts listing, which could be useful when it comes to maintenance, and when you want to ask a question here and don't know the name of the widget you need to twiddle: /g/Unimat/files/unimat%20manuals/Operating%20Instructions%20for%20the%20Emco%20Unimat%20Model%20SL.pdf There are other useful documents in the Unimat Manuals section. Also try an old book on using the Unimat: /g/Unimat/files/DB-SL%20Manual%20%28Miniature%20Machining%20Techniques%29/DB_SL_Manual_Miniature_Machining_Techniques.pdf It's worth browsing the Files occasionally, as there are all sorts of odd bits of information there. What accessories do you have with the lathe? Post pictures if you're not sure what they are - we'll soon identify them and explain what they do. What sort of thing do you hope to make with it? The folks here cover a range of interests - there will probably be someone who shares some of your aims. Whereabouts are you? I think it's fair to say about half the people here are in the USA, a lot of the remainder from the UK, maybe as many from around Europe and some from around the world. One of them might be just down the road from you! |
Re: Recommendations for learning the basics
Among many others, Mr. Pete222 on youtube.com. One thing I learned the hard way is that to get your stuff made correctly, you need to be able to measure correctly with calipers & micrometer. There's a feel to the caliper or micrometer that you need to learn by doing. I finally took another class 42 years after the first one, and was having the same problems on the school machines as on my 7x mini-lathe. Spent a couple class periods measuring a set of grade A Johannsen blocks, and solved my problem. I also bought a set of the circular blocks for my own use at home. At the time (2015) a set of grade B blocks were about $100, where the set I got ran about $36. The block set the school had was about $1500, IIRC, but most home shop machinists don't need blocks accurate to 50 millionths of an inch. :) You could approximate them with a good set of drill bits. Import gage block sets are a great deal cheaper:??https://www.amazon.com/s?k=gage+block+set&crid=1UKZ4D44847M3&sprefix=gage+block+set%2Caps%2C3647&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 These are similar to mine:?https://www.amazon.com/s?k=round+gage+block+set&crid=7BWD7GJ2VDQH&sprefix=round+gage+block+set%2Caps%2C325&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 Gage blocks or round gage blocks. I spent the time between my 1st & 2nd classes not needing to measure anything particularly accurately.? Didn't rebuild engines, or much of anything else. YMMV. :) Bill in OKC? William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY! Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Saturday, May 11, 2024 at 03:54:01 PM CDT, Brad Barton via groups.io <xbartx@...> wrote:
I'm the new owner of a Unimat SL and have no prior experience with metal machining. Can anyone recommend a source for educational videos on the basics. -Brad |
Re: iGaging Digital 6” Digital with remote
No, the unit I purchased is an 8 inch strip of plastic aluminum with a reader bar.
-- http://www.homemadetools.net/ ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI- ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION |
Re: 24Volt DC Unimat Motors
This is what I ordered off Amazon:? -?331 Buna O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 2-1/4" ID, 2-5/8" OD, 3/16" Width (Pack of 25) -?341 Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 3-1/2" ID, 3-7/8" OD, 3/16" Width (Pack of 25) Been working fine for me so far. Paul On Fri, May 3, 2024 at 8:59?AM Andrei via <calciu1=[email protected]> wrote:
|
Re: 24Volt DC Unimat Motors
Andrei
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of OldToolmaker via groups.io <old_toolmaker@...>
Sent: Friday, May 3, 2024 9:13 AM To: Keith S. Angus <keithsangus@...>; [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [Unimat] 24Volt DC Unimat Motors ?
I am currently using Buna N rubber orings. I do have urethane stock to make my own but never got around to making a welding fixture. A project for the future!
-- http://www.homemadetools.net/ ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI- ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION |
Re: 24Volt DC Unimat Motors
I am currently using Buna N rubber orings. I do have urethane stock to make my own but never got around to making a welding fixture. A project for the future!
-- http://www.homemadetools.net/ ?SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS? ?LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS ?MINI- ?SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS? ?QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET ?MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION |
Re: Do DC permanent magnet motors get old and weak?
开云体育Check for carbon packed between commutator? segments or shorted
or open windings, you need a low reading ohm meter for an accurate
check.? Perhaps run it on about 6 volts and load it down and check
for dead or weak spots in the rotation.? Dead spots are usually
open or shorted windings. On 4/29/24 17:43, vt_biketim wrote:
Not specifically a Unimat question, but some people here seem to know a heck of a lot about brushed, DC motors. Do these permanent magnets get tired after a while? I scavenged one from a lawnmower labeled 24VDC/500 W/4300 rpm. When I hook it up directly to the 24V battery pack it only gets up to maybe 300 rpm. I replaced the brushes and made sure the bearings spun nicely and the battery is fully charged. Am I missing something, or is it junk? |