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I don't have a Unimat. I'd like one but I already have several small lathes so getting one is simply a want rather than a need.

I became interested in a lathe for model work, and ended up buying a Sherline, since they could be bought new and have a good reputation.?

The topic of small lathes often comes up in modeling circles. I can do a decent comparison between Taig, Sherline and Atlas / Craftsman 6" since I have used them, but have never been hands on with a Unimat.

For somebody in the market for a small lathe, what would you say the major perks of a Unimat are??

Obviously size goes for the SL/SB if someone wants very compact and the various attachments can make it a handy if expensive many in one tool.

With the prices Unimats can ask, I begin to wonder if they are still a good suggestion for a beginner. You can get a new Taig or Sherline for about the same money as the average asking price of a Unimat.
As I don't have experience with Unimat that is a question I can't answer.

"I don=t lie the tailstock"

That's?

I don't like the tailstock

Must type even slower!

On Sat, Apr 8, 2023 at 03:14 AM, jpow wrote:

4. Unimat pc has an eccentric off center spindle on tailstock that allows adjustment supposedly in one axis (to front / rear of) Wouldnt this? adjustment would move the center point in both horizontal and vertical directions??

Yes, it does, but if you calculate the vertical movement compared to horizontal it is negligible. And if you work out the effect it would have on turning a cylinder, it would make it into a very shallow hyperboloid. Not considered too important for the jobs the machine was intended for. However, I don=t lie the tailstock and will be designing a new one once that project rises up the priority list. I picture a very traditional unit with a horizontal adjustment, largely machined from bocks of aluminium alloy. Details here when - if - it happens.

Just got my 3 jaw from India yesterday. A bit grimey, and kinda rough on the backplate (but machined smooth where it contacts the spindle). I'll have to measure runout when I get a chance, but seems decent for the price.

I also bought a Sherline 4 jaw and am super impressed with it. Way more solid than the Emco original.

I bought the 4 jaw Indian chuck off ebay, initially I was disappointed as it was very rough movement. I stripped it down and used a small needle file and did a small ammount of work on the contact surfaces and the edges. Honestly it is fine now, I suppose it's the old story, you get what you pay for.
I've never seen a chuck this size and it was a bit of a shock when compared to my 4" mini lathe chuck

Hi Alexander can you give more details on your quick change tool post? Did you make it yourself? Thx!?

Sold for $470, I estimate $60 for shipping at least to my ZIP Code. So all in at $530. ?

Hi James,
I'll write up a new thread showing images of what I have done, the Indexer and controller I made so I could move between different machine's CNC, Miller, Lathe it has it's own power supply it is so easy to move and setup to use.


Phill

Hello Steve,
I'll write up a new thread showing images of what I have done, the Indexer and controller I made so I could move between different machine's CNC, Miller, Lathe it has it's own power supply it is so easy to move and setup to use.
I wanted a small lathe to use for clock work and some miniature wood work at a later date and came across the little cast SL which is just right, but what I did not like was having use a lot of time moving the axis by hand so I came up with make new bed bars to fit the stepper motors and found the single axis controllers from China and they work fine takes a little thinking to set them up but works well, and yes the steppers are through shaft which helps sometimes.

Phill

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For reference this is a picture of the unimat pc tailstock spindle. It has m14 threads for screwing on chuck / collet / live center.?

Hey all

Bit by bit I'm learning more about my lathe (as a total newbie)?

I'm moving to the point where I'm trying to align my tailstock and have but a couple of stumbling blocks?

- I dont have any form of alignment bar (length shd be approx 150mm to fit in the unimat pc)?
- I don't have any Dead centers

Questions?
1. Are the dead centers for unimat pc the same as unimat 3? Ie. Non tapered and must slide them into spindle? If so I'll find unimat 3 dead centers online.?

2. Is the mounting of dead center as simple as sliding them into the spindle? If so Won't it be loose / have play?

3. Any online options for an alignment bar that stretches the full working distance of the unimat pc? By measurement it's abt 150-180mm

4. Unimat pc has an eccentric off center spindle on tailstock that allows adjustment supposedly in one axis (to front / rear of) Wouldnt this? adjustment would move the center point in both horizontal and vertical directions?


Any advice is much appreciated :)?

JP

Interesting - I’ve been kicking that idea around for a while. The old 1900s collector toy trains are pricy items, but can I build something similar? Good question. Right now I’m wondering if I can mill slots into the semi-solid barrel armature from a hysteresis motor. It has a laminated field frame, bearings and enough room to add a commutator. Almost done, hah!

chestofbooks.com has reprints of those old Popular Mechanics articles, including some motors. Here’s one example:?

DW

Hi Phil,

I really like your power feed setup, and am intrigued by your dividing head index controller.? Could you post more information and pictures? I'd like to explore this, but haven't had any practical experience in cnc/electronic lead screws. Have you posted any writeups or videos on this anywhere?
Cheers,
James

Hi Phil, I'd love to see more pics of your setup, hi-res if possible, as I plan to do something very similar. Especially interested in the indexed divider, am thinking about the same for my vertical mill setup (I have 2 SLs). Are those steppers with a thru shaft? I've not seen them before, would be interested in where you sourced them.

There ia a?Emco Unimat 3 Lathe Attached To Wooden Box/ Accessories for auction at the Goodwill site.
The auction ends at??04/07/2023 07:46:00 PM PT.

Richard B.

I forgot to add I looked at adding plastic washers but guessed they might wear in time, I don't like the bent compression washers I think that would introduce some movement, I think by adding a hardened washer then the roller then a washer it has worked by far the best, cost a few ?'s or should I add $'s but that is it now I can go on and enjoy the lathe.

Phill

Hi Dick, I never gave it a thought about making two like you have I just went looking at bearing supplies and found just what I was looking for, it has improved my little lathe 99% I don't have any problem with back lash on the screws and nut they are working really well.
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On my 7x16 minilathe I made a small ball thrust bearing on the cross slide and was able to remove virtually all back lash on the cross slide of my minilathe. It was made from tiny loose balls in a circular groove. I see no reason this could not be adapted to the Unimat cross slide.
Dick

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