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You say you are using cheap carbide tools, are they the brazed tip type that are color coded? I find them to be pretty bad. They just aren't sharp enough. For small lathes the cutters need to be razor

Not 100% sure on the speeds but even with the lightest of cuts with my current tools just stopped the part dead and binds up whilst dislodging it in the chuck or removing it completely. I'm still not

* light cuts * sharp tool with approx correct rake for the material * approx correct speed for the material * support at the tailstock end if the material is say greater than 3 times longer than its

I have had a number of 3-jaw chucks pass through my hands. I can offer the following observations. The earlier ones did not have a cupped washer in the back. The scroll ring on these usually spins

all of the jaws are in the correct place as I've had them out to turn larger pieces in and the larger pieces have even more runout when the jaws are switched (attention being paid to move jaw 1-3 and

Hi there I've been trying to centre just round peices of steel and aluminium but just having too much luck, I also don't know anything much about machining or this lathe, so I have no idea what I'm

Hi, and welcome to the group. 3-jaw chucks vary in runout, but should not be as bad as you describe unless something is wrong. Like poorly fitted backplate. But you mentioned centering the workpiece.

Hi Dan, It may well be the jaws are not in the correct positions. There are numbers stamped on the jaws and on the body, maybe check? Cheers, James, Locked down in Dunfermline, Fife, UK

Hi A couple of things. Are the jaws in the correct slots, they are numbered. Do the jaws have any sign of wear. Could you show us some photos of the chuck so we can get a better idea.

Hi there I've just gotten myself an old unimat selecta mini-lathe, with the standard 3 jaw chuck installed. I seem to be having quite a bit of trouble 1. getting things centred and 2. getting the jaws

I’m a relative beginner but I would say as long as the chuck is correctly fitted, tight is good. The 3 jaw chuck that came with mine secondhand moved freely and I had difficulty getting the

My original 3 jaw is still very tight to move by hand, I’ve oiled all the parts and the jaws themself and it’s only reduced a little, honestly I don’t have issues holding material I only get

G'Day Matthew! Try the chuck ways for fit with chuck disassembled before lapping and if it is the same, try lubricating and if that helps, use chuck as it is, it may work its way by itself after a

Lapping should be a last resort imo. I've ruined a chuck in the past trying to true up the jaws. I would imagine your problem is elsewhere, I doubt it would have left the factory all those years ago

My jaws are very tight. ?I will have to lap each one of the a little bit. ?Equal amounts off of both sides.

I use a very light grease sparingly. The canned spray on type you might use for a bicycle. Swarf and chips getting into it are inevitable im affraid.

1. The jaws should be a snug fit/ they should slide fairly easily but they should not rattle in the guides/ ideally there should be no slack at all. 2. I would avoid all oils, since they are going to

Good evening friends, I have recently disassembled and cleaned my new to me 3-jaw chuck for my DB/SL. ? I have two questions. 1. ?Before I reassemble and lubricate the chuck, how easily should the

Thank you for the picture. Dick

-- Lio, France - Unimat SL x 3