From Don,
5) TinkerCAD and Sketch-up... I've seen people make some really fantastic stuff with these, but to me they didn't seem all that precise - so I never looked at them very hard.? I'm probably just biased because of a long 2D CAD experience with Autocad.

Don thanks for the reviews... I'm not a fan of any modeling that is shared with the universe, in theory, but when I read just one book on 3d printing, it was represented in that book, that the open source and that collective knowledge brought the 3d printers to market very quickly... so I understand, but don't think I would want to use software under those terms if I was trying to make a living selling my products - counter -intuitive in my analysis for any start up business.... and start ups working without a net are? not likely to afford software subscription fees....?

My Grandson, modeled a round clamping brace for me in Tinkercad.? It was supposed to be round, but it is not a flip it 180 degrees and it is symmetrical part... Even though I was trying my best effort to tinker with new technology, the last time I turned a band on a lathe, if I parted it off say 1" wide by 1/4" thickness by 16" diameter into fourths it has symmetry and can be flipped; grandson's model can't be flipped... it looks good on a screen, the lack of symmetry was not impressive, but it was our first joint effort and I didn't hover, I just let him do it and then printed it.? Other files that I have downloaded printed wonderfully, so I know it isn't the printer.? Don, thank you for explaining the triangles... in the 3d print.? I was aware of the triangles, but not aware of the fault that you explained in message 62757.

I'm not impressed with subscriptions for hobbyists.? I try my best to model in vetric aspire and convert to stl for printing.? It is pretty simple and they use the word intuitive... but for a person who has lived in a world of numbers and spreadsheets, macros and programming in excel, (actually lotus1-2-3 is what I learned to program - the excel imitation was forced but I can program if I need to) Aspire will always be my favorite system...? I haven't printed anything for probably more then a year though... will have to re - learn later this year.? I've got a Boss Delta filament printer and an Elegoo resin printer to give engineering hopeful grandson access to cool tools.? The Elegoo was for him, and I did print some paid for fun miniature files though....at least I got away with the purchase without Dear Husband complaining.

I wanted to print the cams for the Ornamental Lathe, and that is one of the reasons I purchased the filament Boss Delta - and See3CNC mfg the Boss Delta in our state.? I had to save multiple years for those two purchases... I've never updated my Aspire by the way, and still find the users forum a friendly place.??

Tamra

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Hi:

I used a 60 RPM gear motor for this chop saw, cuts great.

First motor was $10, burned a winding after a heavy cut. Still available:

The replacement Dayton motor was more like $50

Carl.

For sure I meant DIY making. Not for sale. I just watched Adam Savage spend countless hours upgrading a $39 Harbor freight mini chop saw. Obviously (LOL) not for resale, but for his own satisfaction.?
I figure that even with buying the materials to make this part, one should get it done for what, maybe 10 or 15 bucks? Most of us have some material squirreled away. So far I have about $6 invested in a piece of aluminum tubing for the quill, and it would make at least 3 of them. So, 2 bucks, plus filament. The rest will probably be from my scrap box.?

I agree with all the above. ;-) Either orientation is good probably. Like Don said, watch the rough hole size as compared to the finished (bored) size and make sure you leave enough wall thickness. This is fun!?

"CNC Kitchen" probably, he has a lot of good content running tests like that.? We actually made a similar tensile test machine to his here at work after seeing it

One thing to remember when 3D printing, then machining that object to size...? Unless you're printing with 100% infill, you've got to be sure your perimeter walls are thick enough that you will still have a decent wall thickness after machining.? I believe that a lot of the strength in a 3D print is in the perimeter walls.? I vaguely remember somebody doing a video testing various wall thicknesses, but not who did it.

Don

It's on my todo list to actually cast some of these parts in aluminum since its a process I enjoy.? I have my doubts that could be done small scale any cheaper than the inflated prices though.? For ones own self maybe since its just time, but turning that time in to dollars suddenly a 100 dollar ebay tailstock doesn't look that bad lol

I agree and that’s why I’m wavering on the material for the screw. I was trying to avoid turning the steel. ;-) but it is a small part and will be mostly threaded, so I guess it really isn’t a big deal. I like the functionality of the original tailstock for some things so would like to keep my version of it working that way.?
The Taig tailstock on my machine now works well, but I really want to provide some ‘parts’ availability other than paying the inflated, unrealistic amount for original parts.?

This is true.? My first thought with the orientation I used was making it as concentric as possible.? Something I never had great luck with horizontally.? I never thought to just bore it afterwards until Carl's comment.

Either way its fairly beefy, I think it'd be alright within the limits of what you'd do on a unimat anyway.? Just a guess/feels though

Oh, small diameter horizontal holes typically don’t need support so printing with the main housing horizontal (and a smaller ID bore) should be easy actually.?

I like the idea and especially like the idea of boring from the headstock. But, remember that the weakest way to print a tube is vertically. I’ve been looking at printing it horizontally, which wouldn’t be a big deal IF one planned to bore it on the machine.?
Interesting ideas…?

hah I never thought about boring it out.? that'd have a lot of benefits.? smoother bore, more perfect size and alignment etc.

Here's another with the bore 2mm undersized to leave plenty of material for that.

Same warnings, I haven't even tried it, was just a random idea

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Hi Nevadablue:

Aluminum on Aluminum, expect gaulding. I would use a steel thread.

Carl.

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Hi Gang:

I was thinking about a printed tailstock and how to fit the left handed screw. What if you just tapped the whole tail stock M12x1? You could put a collar on the headstock end to stop the drill chuck and a hand crank on the back end for advancing the tools or centers. Yes the chuck would rotate as you advance it, but would that be bad?

Carl.

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Hello Rick:

I really like it! And you can still bore it from the head stock.

I might like to print one for use with the head stock riser block!

Thanks, Carl.

I'm in your debt. Thankyou.

lol I will forever refer to my 3d printers as "plastic poopers" from here on out

"not so confident on the various curved surfaces and what not"

If you've got a 3D printer, use your plastic-pooping-robot to print yourself some radius gauges, that's what I did.? I've got a set of 2-20mm internal/external radius gauges printed out now and that covers most of what I need, plus it's pretty easy to print more when you need them.? I print them about 1mm thick so they print pretty fast.? I wouldn't trust them for professional usage, but for light-duty hobby use - they work for me.

Don

Also if anyone felt it was truly a thing worth chasing, I'd bet it wouldn't be difficult to model around some off the shelf parts to make it a bit more functional without needing any of the original parts.? Threaded rods, brass sleeves etc are all pretty easy to come by in a lot of sizes.? I was just bored at the office and wanted to see if I could make it more printable for now lol