¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
Date
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
Pretty cool! And local to me. Though it's even smaller than the 12" job, and I'm pretty sure that one is too small for what I need. Besides, I just bought a steady and follower rests for my Atlas
By Bill in OKC too · #59965 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
That should probably work nicely for Tamra, though Ebay has one for $300 with free shipping, and they want over $400 for the same one you linked. I looked at them, but they're too small for what I
By Bill in OKC too · #59964 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I - WARNING
DO NOT CLICK ON THE LINK IN BILL¡¯S MESSAGE AS IT CONTAINS MALWARE. It tried to tell me that my machine was infected with five viruses and my McAfee antivirus was expired (which it is not).
By Gerald Feldman · #59963 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
There is an 8¡± sheer on ebay used for $100. 8 Inch Manual Mini Shear/brake Combination Machine USED ebay.com Best Regards John
By John Entwistle · #59962 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
How about something like this, a 12" metal shear, roller and brake all in one. It would do a what you want and more. This is a Eastwood brand. They are sold under many different names and with a big
By Jkle379184 · #59961 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
Tamra, a shear will be easier, and there won't be lots of fine metal dust to worry about. Though you can get some pretty sharp edges shearing metal.? You can get a pretty decent hand-held band saw
By Bill in OKC too · #59960 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
You need to get into investment casting of precious metals! Lost Wax casting would let you make your model in easily carved wax, then you sprue it, and invest the model. Then you take the invested
By Bill in OKC too · #59959 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
Hello Tamra: It looks like a stack up of die block, spacer ( slot for material ) and punch guide block. The three are held together with dowel pins and screws. They would assemble all three and then
By Carl · #59958 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
I think I am cutting 50 rectangles of copper.? ? Something close to this measurement; will see what is the max qty obtainable when the copper is delivered. I ordered supplies for a kit and some
By Tamra B · #59957 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
I have cut thin aluminum on a Minicraft table saw with a fine saw blade. You can still see these Mincraft table saw pop up on Ebay ever now and then. The variable speed control is
By Jkle379184 · #59956 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
Hello Tamra: Are you making 50 tools, or 50 slips of copper? The tools look like they were made by a wire EDM and would be hard to make even one on a Unimat. 50 slips, I would cut them oversize, clamp
By Carl · #59955 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
depending on thickness, I cut steel shimstock up to about 10 thou with normal scissors, brass too, so cant see why copper should be much different. As for holding thin stock, thats best done by
By Peter ashby · #59954 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
Tamara, that's tool steel. That will likely be precision ground after heat treat. You might make 1 or 2 of poor quality but if your intending a production run of 50 then I doubt the Unimat is the most
By clankennedy2004 · #59953 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
Tamra, Unless it has been hardened, pure copper is quite soft and sticky (like pure Aluminum). It will snag and clog saw blades, especially powered saws. If the copper sheets are thin, why don¡¯t you
By Gerald Feldman · #59952 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
Kevin, I think this is a much safer solution... I have one that I use all the time at work.? I will order the copper and see if I can cut it with it;? I do have a few saw blades from my micro mark
By Tamra B · #59951 ·
Re: Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
Hey Tamra, I'll cut 1/8" and thicker non-ferrous metals on my tablesaw any day, but thinner stock is sketchy because there's only one tooth in the material at a time. Some time ago I had to cut some
By Kevin Groenke @ PersonMakeObject <groen004@...> · #59950 ·
Mill Question - should I? or shouldn't I
Before I assemble my unimat as a mill, can I mill this shape qty 50 rectangles with a unimat? https://www.etsy.com/listing/641618499/extra-large-disc-cutter-with-two-punches 1-3/8" x 7/8" and 1-
By Tamra B · #59949 ·
Re: Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?
If there is already a center hole, I just use an endmill. A drill bit will grab and go off course. An endmill in a drill press/mill wil give you a perfect hole exactly where you tell it to be.
By Dave Hallikainen · #59948 ·
Re: Rustoleum Green Hammered
Would be irresponsible to use anything that black. Could have a blotting effect on the sun.
By Mike · #59947 ·
Re: Widening an existing hole with a drill bit: how to guarantee concentricity?
Since my last message didn't? contain John Hutnick's suggestion to trade the 12mm chuck for a 14mm chuck, I'm going to chime in on that again. Make a trade! :) Bill in OKC? William R. Meyers, MSgt,
By Bill in OKC too · #59946 ·