This is a very late SL1000. Note the black plastic hand wheels. Same as used on the Unimat 3s in 1976.

Cary

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Hello Steve:

One bonus of the Unimat, is you can change the speed. I use my Unimat table saw to cut plastic building walls. My Harbor Freight saw spins so fast it melts the plastic, while at low RPM the Unimat does great. This would also be a plus cutting metal since you don't burn up the blade.

Carl.

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Hi all,

I'm after a fret saw to allow me to cut some clòck wheels. The material is brass sheet up to 3mm thick. I was just wondering would the SL fret saw attachment be up to the job? I can get one for circa ?150.00 but I'm not sure how much a stand alone small fret saw would be...

Steve

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Fret saw or jig saw?? I have the jigsaw attachment but have had limited use out of it - the blade wanders a lot.? However I can mount a powerdrill type jigsaw blade in it, much more rigid, and use it as a sabre saw reasonably handily.? However it's still only of use for rough cuts.? I could probably improve my technique, but since it is usually disassembled, it's usually quicker or more accurate to cut by hand.? No addiitional problem with 3mm brass sheet, except that the thinner the metal, the more twists and distortion will occur, bringing us back to hand cutting - fretsaw, piercing saw aka jeweller's saw etc.? I don't have any more advanced tools than that anyway.

You probably know all about the optimum teeth count for the thickness of metal, and lubrication etc.? That is the other point - the lack of supplies of alternative and replacement blades.

Mehmood

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??? ??? I have a friend in Austin who might be persuaded to have a look!? Bill in Boulder Co USA

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Unimat miniature Lathe and Mill. Excellent condition. Made in Austria Includes:

* Table Saw
* 3 Jaw Chuck
* 4 Jaw Chuck
* Rotary Table
* Vice
* Tooling
* Steady Rest
* Manuel
*Accessories
Needs Belts

I saw a 5 piece shank set of 1/4" square size with and without the triangle bits. They were in Travers Tool catalog. I also think they were on sale in the last few months. MSC or others will probably also have them. Don't remember the brand but it was made in USA.

Cary

Seems like one or more on this group has used 5/16" square (8mm) bits and got away with it. These would add a little stiffness to the game. But 1/4" or 6mm square is the standard.

Cary

Some times I think our posts are traveling at the speed of dark or slower.

Cary

It kind of depends on what era your box came from. The MK1 box was came with no stain but was either lacquered or perhaps shelaqued. The blond? boxes were supplied into the die cast era but then were just stained. I have one that came with one of my Uncle's ZAMAC SLs and it was stained and the interior was painted white. I don't know if that white was original or not.

Cary

First off the longitudinal way bars, pillars, what ever are 12mm ground and polished rod. You can get 36" lengths from any outfit that sells O1 precision ground and polished in 12mm. Not too expensive.?The simple solution is to buy the extended woodworking 12mm way bars already correctly drilled and maybe taped for the M6 mounting screws.?Or, design a fixture to drill the holes in extra long lengths of 12mm O1 round bar stock. I don't know what the length of the longer way bars was but I?am sure someone on?this forum can supply that info. A helpful accessory that one vendor sold is a support block made from a alloy bed cut off from the headstock end.

Cary?

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