Clock makers will put a pin in one end of a double ended pin vise and the tiny drill in the other end of the pin vise, then pass the drill through a plate with the drill size hole in it as a guide (on the lathe's center of rotation).? The tailstock has a sleeve in it that allows the pin to rotate.
Then bring up the setup close to the workpiece and slowly feed the drill by grasping the pin vise body and press into the part.? If the drill jams, let go of it and it does not break.
I have used variations of this method for all kinds of very tiny drills drilling into many materials including stainless.? Light oil is the best lube for the process.
On Fri, Feb 7, 2025 at 8:46?AM davesmith1800 via <davesmith1=[email protected]> wrote:
I belive some feel like challenge to master.? It like tapping a #0 screw hole I can do just give nut bolt that size or better stop #2 something every one can see.?
I do my own drawings I can avoid the challenge with pencil or today a click of the mouse.?
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Dave?
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On Fri, Feb 7, 2025 at 01:03 AM, Keith S. Angus wrote:
On Thu, Feb 6, 2025 at 01:36 PM, Peter ashby wrote:
here is one -
Note that the spec says drills down to 1/32". I use ER11 collets in the tailstock - they go down to 0.5 mm. However my smaller drills, down to 0.5 mm have a 3/32" (2.38 mm) shank. I have a smaller set of drills, 0.05 to 0.5 mm in 0.05 mm steps, and they have 1 mm shanks. You have to look beyond the usual sets of small drills to find these, and they are not cheap. The larger drills are Busch, bought from Cookson Gold, and the smaller ones came from Drill Services. It took me a while to find the Busch drills, and they come in at ?2.50 to ?3.50 each. However I found them to be good quality and I don't think I've ever snapped one.
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The Eclipse pin chuck I have has three collets and goes down to just about zero size.