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Re: Alternative motor for the Unimat SL


 

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David,

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Very nice looking, but with that much power on such a small lathe you are leaving yourself open to bending or tearing apart the headstock or the support rods.? It is kind of like those guys who put an excessively large engine in an otherwise stock car and end up ripping off the driveshaft or differential because of the excessive torque developed by the engine.? You may want to consider fastening the drive pulley with a soft shear pin (usually soft aluminum) that will give way before ruining the spindle should jam.?

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Best wishes,

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Jerry F.?

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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of David via groups.io
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2021 8:21 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Unimat] Alternative motor for the Unimat SL

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Good evening,

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This is my first post to the site so apologies if I ramble a little.

First of all, many thanks to all involved in sorting out the recent situation.

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I am a retired combustion engineer from the steel industry and have developed an interest in the repair of grandfather clock movements.

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Very quickly it became apparent that some form of lathe was required for this and after much internet searching, during which I found this site, went for the EMCO Unimat SL due to it's compact size.

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After repairing, repainting and general repairs the original motor was refitted but I found it too noisy and time restrained.

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The lathe also came with an old 90w sewing machine motor controlled via a foot pedal.

I tried this but it proved problematic due to not being able to control my left foot and the old motor was not powerful enough to achieve higher speeds under load.

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After research I bought a 230v 550w DC servo motor from Amazon, designed for an industrial sewing machine.

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It was simplicity itself to fit and is more than adequate for my needs Very quiet, up to 4500 rpm and reversible at the touch of a button.

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It comes with sufficient brackets to fit most needs. I inverted the original motor bracket and mounted it through the idler pulley bearing hole. This gives the ability to adjust belt tension as well.?

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It has a very efficient electrical braking system, sensible as it is designed for a sewing machine and an operator would not want it to run on if they were in difficulty.

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It will stop, with a thump, from 4500 rpm to zero in the blink of an eye.

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Unfortunately for a Unimat SL this leaves more than enough momentum in the chuck for it to screw itself off and end up anywhere in the workshop, at speed.

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This motor braking is simple to turn off in the parameters of the controller, but by default it is set to maximum.

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The normally foot pedal activated on/off and speed control switch was fitted in an appropriate place for hand operation and the return spring removed.

This switch increases the motor speed in steps from 0 to 100% of the desired speed set in the main motor controller. It does this with a Hall effect sensor with a magnet.

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There is a hole in the top of the switch and this means it does occasionally get swarf on it and in it. This would eventually cause electrical problems.

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As part of a normal lathe clean down I inspect and remove any debris to avoid this.

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Some photographs of the setup have been included for your perusal.

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I am very happy to provide any information you may require.

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kindest regards,

David

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