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Zero cost electrolytic can adapter
This is probably familiar to most people who have ever tried to replace an old electrolytic capacitor.
It is very easy to make an adapter, at no cost. It is enough to cut off the edge of the old electrolyte, approximately 3 millimeters from the edge. You will get an outer ring that fits perfectly back to where it was, and the bakelite center will serve perfectly to place a modern electrolyte on it. Here are pictures of how I usually do it: /g/TekScopes/album?id=294954 |
Very nice. How do you get such a smooth cut of the can?
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George KD6NEW On May 8, 2024, at 12:54?PM, radiobero.bb@... wrote: |
The insulator is fiber, not Phenolic.
On Wed, May 8, 2024 at 3:54?PM radiobero.bb via groups.io <radiobero.bb= [email protected]> wrote: This is probably familiar to most people who have ever tried to replace an |
On Wed, May 8, 2024 at 09:41 PM, Glydeck wrote:
Here's how I manage it: /g/TekScopes/album?id=294969 |
I don't put the lid back on.
For me, this only serves to avoid purchasing adapters. The use of an adapter when repairing a tektronix oscilloscopes enables a good and reliable repair. It is possible to install modern electrolytes without an adapter, you just have to pay attention to the fact that the body of the can serves as a jumper for several points of ground potential. In that case you need to install the wires. My opinion is that it might be better not to put the can back, because the electrolyte has better cooling. I don't know if I'm right with this interpretation, when it comes to the temperature of the electrolyte. I know that restoring the can is more often used by restorers of old radios, because in that case the original appearance is still more important. |
I have done this on a lot of multi-cap cans in old monitors.
The multi cans bulge at the bottom, so I cant use a pipe cutter reliably. Have to use a hacksaw...with very fine teeth. Clean up with a half-round file and then fine sand paper glued to a glass pane (for flatness). To reassemble the cans, I have used aluminum tape in the past. But I'm going to try clear heat shrink tubing on the next one I do. I think that might look nicer. |
When I rebuild a condenser, I use blue shrink wrap over it because it covers the cut seam and is authentic, I have seen plenty condensers from the factory with blue sleeves. I put a wrap of aluminum foil around the seam so the top part of the can is grounded to the bottom part.
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?? Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY On 5/13/24 11:54, Chris Wilkson via groups.io wrote:
I have done this on a lot of multi-cap cans in old monitors. |
I've done this by making the cut about 1/2" from the top of the can. A hacksaw blade taped to a small piece of wood allows one to cut and slowly spin the can while sawing so that the cut is all the way around. It makes for a pretty square cut. I think I used heat-shrink the last time I did that as well.
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Barry - N4BUQ I have done this on a lot of multi-cap cans in old monitors. |
Just to clarify, the can is turned upside-down for that.
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Barry - N4BUQ I've done this by making the cut about 1/2" from the top of the can. A hacksaw |
One detail I want to add. If the diameter of the replacement condensers don't fill the can to the limit, I like to use a strip of plastic cut from a frozen food microwave tray to form a ring inside the can to give some strength when the top of the can is put back on.
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?? Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY On 5/13/24 13:28, n4buq wrote:
Just to clarify, the can is turned upside-down for that. |
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