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TM504 backplane repair


 

I have a TM504 where contact B22 on the high-power compartment connector has got mangled. It can be seen that it is sitting badly and maybe shorting to A22. I know that this connector isn't used very frequently, but I was hoping to use my PS503A in that compartment to take advantage of the 1A output. I have obtained a brand-new connector (#131-1078-00) and was hoping to be able to use it to effect a repair. I think I have a number of options:

a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of 56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).

b) Somehow remove the faulty contact and replace it with a good one from the new connector. This would be fine, but it doesn't look easy because of the way the contacts are secured in the new connector, they are not easy to remove as they are retained by way of a punched indentation which has resulted in a raised "dot" on the other side. I have tried crushing this down, but it isn't easy. If the mangled contact in the existing connector is retained in the same manner, I can't see how removal can be managed.

c) Just remove the mangled contact by "brute force and ignorance" and forget about its function for the PS503A (it is -V output) . This wouldn't be ideal but would probably be functional, even though it would irritate me as being imperfect.

d) disconnect the electrical connection to the faulty contact on the TM504. I don't like this idea at all.

e) disconnect the electrical contact on the PS503A. I like this option even less than (d).

Does anyone have any experience of doing such a repair or any other/better ideas?

TIA, Colin.


 

Does no-one really have any observations on this?
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Colin Herbert via Groups.Io
Sent: 17 March 2019 13:43
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I have a TM504 where contact B22 on the high-power compartment connector has got mangled. It can be seen that it is sitting badly and maybe shorting to A22. I know that this connector isn't used very frequently, but I was hoping to use my PS503A in that compartment to take advantage of the 1A output. I have obtained a brand-new connector (#131-1078-00) and was hoping to be able to use it to effect a repair. I think I have a number of options:

a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of 56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).

b) Somehow remove the faulty contact and replace it with a good one from the new connector. This would be fine, but it doesn't look easy because of the way the contacts are secured in the new connector, they are not easy to remove as they are retained by way of a punched indentation which has resulted in a raised "dot" on the other side. I have tried crushing this down, but it isn't easy. If the mangled contact in the existing connector is retained in the same manner, I can't see how removal can be managed.

c) Just remove the mangled contact by "brute force and ignorance" and forget about its function for the PS503A (it is -V output) . This wouldn't be ideal but would probably be functional, even though it would irritate me as being imperfect.

d) disconnect the electrical connection to the faulty contact on the TM504. I don't like this idea at all.

e) disconnect the electrical contact on the PS503A. I like this option even less than (d).

Does anyone have any experience of doing such a repair or any other/better ideas?

TIA, Colin.


 

On Thu, 21 Mar 2019 15:22:47 -0000, you wrote:

Does no-one really have any observations on this?
I'll weigh in, but I haven't done this, which is why I had no comment.

I'd try removing the bad contact. That's only one contact, and it
you'd have to do this regardless.

Next, I'd look to see how to get a replacement contact out of the
donor. You might end up putting a very thin shim down the outside of
the contact to press the tab in. Even if you don't manage to do this,
you've removed the bad contact.

Best I can suggest.

Harvey



Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Colin Herbert via Groups.Io
Sent: 17 March 2019 13:43
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I have a TM504 where contact B22 on the high-power compartment connector has got mangled. It can be seen that it is sitting badly and maybe shorting to A22. I know that this connector isn't used very frequently, but I was hoping to use my PS503A in that compartment to take advantage of the 1A output. I have obtained a brand-new connector (#131-1078-00) and was hoping to be able to use it to effect a repair. I think I have a number of options:

a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of 56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).

b) Somehow remove the faulty contact and replace it with a good one from the new connector. This would be fine, but it doesn't look easy because of the way the contacts are secured in the new connector, they are not easy to remove as they are retained by way of a punched indentation which has resulted in a raised "dot" on the other side. I have tried crushing this down, but it isn't easy. If the mangled contact in the existing connector is retained in the same manner, I can't see how removal can be managed.

c) Just remove the mangled contact by "brute force and ignorance" and forget about its function for the PS503A (it is -V output) . This wouldn't be ideal but would probably be functional, even though it would irritate me as being imperfect.

d) disconnect the electrical connection to the faulty contact on the TM504. I don't like this idea at all.

e) disconnect the electrical contact on the PS503A. I like this option even less than (d).

Does anyone have any experience of doing such a repair or any other/better ideas?

TIA, Colin.







 

OK - I'll bite - With no good desoldering tools around, I have useda vise-grip to crush the plastic on a edge connector (carefully),into small enough sections to be able to remove the pins one at a time.Use solder wick to clean up, and s drill bit for the stubborn holes.
Tek seemed to use large thru-hole sizes, so using a proper vacuumstation is not out of the question.? Ask around to borrow/rent time on one.
JimMc

On Thursday, March 21, 2019, 8:22:59 AM PDT, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io <colingherbert@...> wrote:

Does no-one really have any observations on this?
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Colin Herbert via Groups.Io
Sent: 17 March 2019 13:43
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I have a TM504 where contact B22 on the high-power compartment connector has got mangled. It can be seen that it is sitting badly and maybe shorting to A22. I know that this connector isn't used very frequently, but I was hoping to use my PS503A in that compartment to take advantage of the 1A output. I have obtained a brand-new connector (#131-1078-00) and was hoping to be able to use it to effect a repair. I think I have a number of options:

a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of 56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).

b) Somehow remove the faulty contact and replace it with a good one from the new connector. This would be fine, but it doesn't look easy because of the way the contacts are secured in the new connector, they are not easy to remove as they are retained by way of a punched indentation which has resulted in a raised "dot" on the other side. I have tried crushing this down, but it isn't easy. If the mangled contact in the existing connector is retained in the same manner, I can't see how removal can be managed.

c) Just remove the mangled contact by "brute force and ignorance" and forget about its function for the PS503A (it is -V output) . This wouldn't be ideal but would probably be functional, even though it would irritate me as being imperfect.

d) disconnect the electrical connection to the faulty contact on the TM504. I don't like this idea at all.

e) disconnect the electrical contact on the PS503A. I like this option even less than (d).

Does anyone have any experience of doing such a repair or any other/better ideas?

TIA, Colin.


 

I personally use one of the SOLD-A-PULLIT but I do have one maybe two more or less complete Pace re-work stations. These have, again assuming I have all the parts, resistive soldering, solder sucker, low speed Dremel, solder tip temp gauge, plus a couple of switch controlled outlets. If there is any interest I'll check this weekend. They are free to a good home for the cost of boxing and shipping.

steve

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of J Mcvein via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2019 9:10 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

OK - I'll bite - With no good desoldering tools around, I have useda vise-grip to crush the plastic on a edge connector (carefully),into small enough sections to be able to remove the pins one at a time.Use solder wick to clean up, and s drill bit for the stubborn holes.
Tek seemed to use large thru-hole sizes, so using a proper vacuumstation is not out of the question. Ask around to borrow/rent time on one.
JimMc

On Thursday, March 21, 2019, 8:22:59 AM PDT, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io <colingherbert@...> wrote:

Does no-one really have any observations on this?
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Colin Herbert via Groups.Io
Sent: 17 March 2019 13:43
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I have a TM504 where contact B22 on the high-power compartment connector has got mangled. It can be seen that it is sitting badly and maybe shorting to A22. I know that this connector isn't used very frequently, but I was hoping to use my PS503A in that compartment to take advantage of the 1A output. I have obtained a brand-new connector (#131-1078-00) and was hoping to be able to use it to effect a repair. I think I have a number of options:

a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of 56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).

b) Somehow remove the faulty contact and replace it with a good one from the new connector. This would be fine, but it doesn't look easy because of the way the contacts are secured in the new connector, they are not easy to remove as they are retained by way of a punched indentation which has resulted in a raised "dot" on the other side. I have tried crushing this down, but it isn't easy. If the mangled contact in the existing connector is retained in the same manner, I can't see how removal can be managed.

c) Just remove the mangled contact by "brute force and ignorance" and forget about its function for the PS503A (it is -V output) . This wouldn't be ideal but would probably be functional, even though it would irritate me as being imperfect.

d) disconnect the electrical connection to the faulty contact on the TM504. I don't like this idea at all.

e) disconnect the electrical contact on the PS503A. I like this option even less than (d).

Does anyone have any experience of doing such a repair or any other/better ideas?

TIA, Colin.


 

Hi Steve,
Please bear in mind I live in London, UK.
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Stephen Hanselman
Sent: 21 March 2019 16:22
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I personally use one of the SOLD-A-PULLIT but I do have one maybe two more or less complete Pace re-work stations. These have, again assuming I have all the parts, resistive soldering, solder sucker, low speed Dremel, solder tip temp gauge, plus a couple of switch controlled outlets. If there is any interest I'll check this weekend. They are free to a good home for the cost of boxing and shipping.

steve

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of J Mcvein via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2019 9:10 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

OK - I'll bite - With no good desoldering tools around, I have useda vise-grip to crush the plastic on a edge connector (carefully),into small enough sections to be able to remove the pins one at a time.Use solder wick to clean up, and s drill bit for the stubborn holes.
Tek seemed to use large thru-hole sizes, so using a proper vacuumstation is not out of the question. Ask around to borrow/rent time on one.
JimMc

On Thursday, March 21, 2019, 8:22:59 AM PDT, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io <colingherbert@...> wrote:

Does no-one really have any observations on this?
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Colin Herbert via Groups.Io
Sent: 17 March 2019 13:43
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I have a TM504 where contact B22 on the high-power compartment connector has got mangled. It can be seen that it is sitting badly and maybe shorting to A22. I know that this connector isn't used very frequently, but I was hoping to use my PS503A in that compartment to take advantage of the 1A output. I have obtained a brand-new connector (#131-1078-00) and was hoping to be able to use it to effect a repair. I think I have a number of options:

a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of 56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).

b) Somehow remove the faulty contact and replace it with a good one from the new connector. This would be fine, but it doesn't look easy because of the way the contacts are secured in the new connector, they are not easy to remove as they are retained by way of a punched indentation which has resulted in a raised "dot" on the other side. I have tried crushing this down, but it isn't easy. If the mangled contact in the existing connector is retained in the same manner, I can't see how removal can be managed.

c) Just remove the mangled contact by "brute force and ignorance" and forget about its function for the PS503A (it is -V output) . This wouldn't be ideal but would probably be functional, even though it would irritate me as being imperfect.

d) disconnect the electrical connection to the faulty contact on the TM504. I don't like this idea at all.

e) disconnect the electrical contact on the PS503A. I like this option even less than (d).

Does anyone have any experience of doing such a repair or any other/better ideas?

TIA, Colin.


tom jobe
 

My suggestion would be to post a few photos of the problem connector and contact.
tom jobe...

On 3/21/2019 8:22 AM, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io wrote:
Does no-one really have any observations on this?
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Colin Herbert via Groups.Io
Sent: 17 March 2019 13:43
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I have a TM504 where contact B22 on the high-power compartment connector has got mangled. It can be seen that it is sitting badly and maybe shorting to A22. I know that this connector isn't used very frequently, but I was hoping to use my PS503A in that compartment to take advantage of the 1A output. I have obtained a brand-new connector (#131-1078-00) and was hoping to be able to use it to effect a repair. I think I have a number of options:

a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of 56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).

b) Somehow remove the faulty contact and replace it with a good one from the new connector. This would be fine, but it doesn't look easy because of the way the contacts are secured in the new connector, they are not easy to remove as they are retained by way of a punched indentation which has resulted in a raised "dot" on the other side. I have tried crushing this down, but it isn't easy. If the mangled contact in the existing connector is retained in the same manner, I can't see how removal can be managed.

c) Just remove the mangled contact by "brute force and ignorance" and forget about its function for the PS503A (it is -V output) . This wouldn't be ideal but would probably be functional, even though it would irritate me as being imperfect.

d) disconnect the electrical connection to the faulty contact on the TM504. I don't like this idea at all.

e) disconnect the electrical contact on the PS503A. I like this option even less than (d).

Does anyone have any experience of doing such a repair or any other/better ideas?

TIA, Colin.






 

Colin,

OK, well this is way to heavy to ship there. Even USP would be close to $100 and they are not on my "happy" list for international shipping, sorry

steve

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Colin Herbert via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2019 10:17 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

Hi Steve,
Please bear in mind I live in London, UK.
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Stephen Hanselman
Sent: 21 March 2019 16:22
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I personally use one of the SOLD-A-PULLIT but I do have one maybe two more or less complete Pace re-work stations. These have, again assuming I have all the parts, resistive soldering, solder sucker, low speed Dremel, solder tip temp gauge, plus a couple of switch controlled outlets. If there is any interest I'll check this weekend. They are free to a good home for the cost of boxing and shipping.

steve

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of J Mcvein via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2019 9:10 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

OK - I'll bite - With no good desoldering tools around, I have useda vise-grip to crush the plastic on a edge connector (carefully),into small enough sections to be able to remove the pins one at a time.Use solder wick to clean up, and s drill bit for the stubborn holes.
Tek seemed to use large thru-hole sizes, so using a proper vacuumstation is not out of the question. Ask around to borrow/rent time on one.
JimMc

On Thursday, March 21, 2019, 8:22:59 AM PDT, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io <colingherbert@...> wrote:

Does no-one really have any observations on this?
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Colin Herbert via Groups.Io
Sent: 17 March 2019 13:43
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I have a TM504 where contact B22 on the high-power compartment connector has got mangled. It can be seen that it is sitting badly and maybe shorting to A22. I know that this connector isn't used very frequently, but I was hoping to use my PS503A in that compartment to take advantage of the 1A output. I have obtained a brand-new connector (#131-1078-00) and was hoping to be able to use it to effect a repair. I think I have a number of options:

a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of 56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).

b) Somehow remove the faulty contact and replace it with a good one from the new connector. This would be fine, but it doesn't look easy because of the way the contacts are secured in the new connector, they are not easy to remove as they are retained by way of a punched indentation which has resulted in a raised "dot" on the other side. I have tried crushing this down, but it isn't easy. If the mangled contact in the existing connector is retained in the same manner, I can't see how removal can be managed.

c) Just remove the mangled contact by "brute force and ignorance" and forget about its function for the PS503A (it is -V output) . This wouldn't be ideal but would probably be functional, even though it would irritate me as being imperfect.

d) disconnect the electrical connection to the faulty contact on the TM504. I don't like this idea at all.

e) disconnect the electrical contact on the PS503A. I like this option even less than (d).

Does anyone have any experience of doing such a repair or any other/better ideas?

TIA, Colin.


 

I just went through this on my TM504A where the high current pin was bad so the module worked but it didn't sense high current. There were multiple problems, a bad contact and a cracked frame, that I didn't notice until I was in there and had it apart.

First off TM500x connectors go bad, they get brittle from age and heat, crack and go bad. So if it isn't bad now it may eventually. For this reason DO NOT USE A NOS replacement part because the plastic is old and it is likely to crack again. And don't screw around with just replacing the bad contact.
The EDAC 305-056-520-201 is not a perfect replacement, the exact part is no longer made. But this part is still available and will work. Us it.

To get the old part out careful work with a Solder Pullet should do it. I didn't have good luck with solder wick. Go slow and careful and make sure it is fully heated before you hit extract. If you can't get it easily you can cut the connector or pull individual contacts from the other side.

While you are in there put some Deoxit on the large Power BJTs where they slide into the connector and make sure all the BJT screws are tight (but not too tight or you damage the insulator). Also a good time to check the caps and make sure they are all still good.


 

Hi Colin
I live in the UK and frequently exchange damaged individual contacts. ?I have no direct knowledge of the TM504, but, the best way to resolve such a problem is very dependent on the exact connectors used and just how good the access is.
If you take a couple of photographs of the damaged connector and email to me at G6HIG at Yahoo dot com I may be able to advise you
Regards
George G6HIG

On Thursday, March 21, 2019 5:53 PM, Hawker <rick@...> wrote:


I just went through this on my TM504A where the high current pin was bad so the module worked but it didn't sense high current. There were multiple problems, a bad contact and a cracked frame, that I didn't notice until I was in there and had it apart.

First off TM500x connectors go bad, they get brittle from age and heat, crack and go bad. So if it isn't bad now it may eventually. For this reason DO NOT USE A NOS replacement part because the plastic is old and it is likely to crack again. And don't screw around with just replacing the bad contact.
The? EDAC? 305-056-520-201 is not a perfect replacement, the exact part is no longer made. But this part is still available and will work. Us it.

To get the old part out careful work with a Solder Pullet should do it. I didn't have good luck with solder wick.? Go slow and careful and make sure it is fully heated before you hit extract. If you can't get it easily you can cut the connector or pull individual contacts from the other side.

While you are in there put some Deoxit on the large Power BJTs where they slide into the connector and make sure all the BJT screws are tight (but not too tight or you damage the insulator). Also a good time to check the caps and make sure they are all still good.


 

I have taken a photo, but I have never posted photos to the Forum, so I'm not too sure what to do next. The offending connector does seem to be brittle and has broken at the top.

The replacement connector that I have is an EDAC 303-056-520-301, which I bought new and it came in a damaged Tek packaging with the label 131-1078-00. It certainly looks correct.

From looking at the guts of the TM504 with both top-cover and bottom-cover removed, the bottom seven or eight pins are difficult to access.

Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of tom jobe
Sent: 21 March 2019 17:34
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

My suggestion would be to post a few photos of the problem connector and
contact.
tom jobe...




On 3/21/2019 8:22 AM, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io wrote:
Does no-one really have any observations on this?
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Colin Herbert via Groups.Io
Sent: 17 March 2019 13:43
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I have a TM504 where contact B22 on the high-power compartment connector has got mangled. It can be seen that it is sitting badly and maybe shorting to A22. I know that this connector isn't used very frequently, but I was hoping to use my PS503A in that compartment to take advantage of the 1A output. I have obtained a brand-new connector (#131-1078-00) and was hoping to be able to use it to effect a repair. I think I have a number of options:

a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of 56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).

b) Somehow remove the faulty contact and replace it with a good one from the new connector. This would be fine, but it doesn't look easy because of the way the contacts are secured in the new connector, they are not easy to remove as they are retained by way of a punched indentation which has resulted in a raised "dot" on the other side. I have tried crushing this down, but it isn't easy. If the mangled contact in the existing connector is retained in the same manner, I can't see how removal can be managed.

c) Just remove the mangled contact by "brute force and ignorance" and forget about its function for the PS503A (it is -V output) . This wouldn't be ideal but would probably be functional, even though it would irritate me as being imperfect.

d) disconnect the electrical connection to the faulty contact on the TM504. I don't like this idea at all.

e) disconnect the electrical contact on the PS503A. I like this option even less than (d).

Does anyone have any experience of doing such a repair or any other/better ideas?

TIA, Colin.







 

I concur.

DaveD

Sent from a small flat thingy

On Mar 21, 2019, at 13:33, tom jobe <tomjobe@...> wrote:

My suggestion would be to post a few photos of the problem connector and contact.
tom jobe...




On 3/21/2019 8:22 AM, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io wrote:
Does no-one really have any observations on this?
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Colin Herbert via Groups.Io
Sent: 17 March 2019 13:43
To: [email protected]
Subject: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I have a TM504 where contact B22 on the high-power compartment connector has got mangled. It can be seen that it is sitting badly and maybe shorting to A22. I know that this connector isn't used very frequently, but I was hoping to use my PS503A in that compartment to take advantage of the 1A output. I have obtained a brand-new connector (#131-1078-00) and was hoping to be able to use it to effect a repair. I think I have a number of options:

a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of 56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).

b) Somehow remove the faulty contact and replace it with a good one from the new connector. This would be fine, but it doesn't look easy because of the way the contacts are secured in the new connector, they are not easy to remove as they are retained by way of a punched indentation which has resulted in a raised "dot" on the other side. I have tried crushing this down, but it isn't easy. If the mangled contact in the existing connector is retained in the same manner, I can't see how removal can be managed.

c) Just remove the mangled contact by "brute force and ignorance" and forget about its function for the PS503A (it is -V output) . This wouldn't be ideal but would probably be functional, even though it would irritate me as being imperfect.

d) disconnect the electrical connection to the faulty contact on the TM504. I don't like this idea at all.

e) disconnect the electrical contact on the PS503A. I like this option even less than (d).

Does anyone have any experience of doing such a repair or any other/better ideas?

TIA, Colin.








 

I'm fairly certain you have the correct part. There are a few variations that will work. I think the main issue with the part I suggested is you can't put those tabs in that say what kind of module you have. But that wasn't an issue to me.
Sounds like the connector you have is cracked so you will have to replace it. The cracks prevent the tabs from seating on the edge plane correctly so your only choice is to replace it or you will have intermittent contact issues. Getting the PCB out on my TM504A was a PITA and took major disassembly that took a couple hours and a lot of head scratching when I got stuck, so hopefully the TM504 isn't as hard as the TM504A. The A has a fan, larger caps and more parts so maybe that was the issue for me.

If your part is NOS, which I am pretty sure it is based on the fact that EDAC no longer makes them, it is most likely 30 years old or older and will just crack again soon. You can try it but replacing it is so hard I would just use a new 305-056-520-201 so you don't have to do it again. You can get it from Digikey for under $20.


 

Hi Colin,

Replacing the connector sounds like the right thing to do - not sure I agree that using a NOS part is risky, there's a quadzillion backplane connectors out there that have /not/ cracked with age after all, but I order from Digikey regularly and could order up a new one if you want.

I'm more than happy to lend a hand. How practical that is for you I'm not sure -'London' covers a big area!

If you are north(ish) of London then I'm just outside Cambridge and should have enough stuff around to do that and fix any issues that may arise, I've re-capped a couple of my TM500 series chassis and while a little 'awkward' in parts there's nothing too tricky about taking them apart.

Either shipping it to me or a visit - with free, quite passable coffee - would work fine. Oh, no cost (other than return postage) of course!

Adrian

On 3/21/2019 3:22 PM, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io wrote:
a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of 56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).


 

I agree with you on the age factor maybe not being the real issue.? Many connector failures are due to just slamming the plugin into the mainframe.? Unfortunately the plugin edge connectors don't always align just right with the socket of the TM interface connector.

Proper insertion is to put the plugin in the mainframe and feel for the proper alignment of the plugin edge connector with the socket of the interface connector in the TM, then push the plugin home.

Of course check for incompatible family barriers and never insert plugins with the mainframe energized.

Bob.

On 3/22/2019 3:02 AM, Adrian wrote:
Hi Colin,

Replacing the connector sounds like the right thing to do - not sure I agree that using a NOS part is risky, there's a quadzillion backplane connectors out there that have /not/ cracked with age after all, but I order from Digikey regularly and could order up a new one if you want.

I'm more than happy to lend a hand. How practical that is for you I'm not sure -'London' covers a big area!

If you are north(ish) of London then I'm just outside Cambridge and should have enough stuff around to do that and fix any issues that may arise, I've re-capped a couple of my TM500 series chassis and while a little 'awkward' in parts there's nothing too tricky about taking them apart.

Either shipping it to me or a visit - with free, quite passable coffee - would work fine. Oh, no cost (other than return postage) of course!

Adrian

On 3/21/2019 3:22 PM, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io wrote:
a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of 56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).


 

OK, so I bought a de-soldering station, but I don't seem to be able to free the mangled contact easily. I can also see that trying to remove the entire 56-pin connector would be a major task. I am going to try a few more ideas before I give up and forget the one mangled contact, but if I can remove it eventually, I may then just replace it with a good one, if I can.
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of bobh@...
Sent: 22 March 2019 16:34
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I agree with you on the age factor maybe not being the real issue. Many
connector failures are due to just slamming the plugin into the
mainframe. Unfortunately the plugin edge connectors don't always align
just right with the socket of the TM interface connector.

Proper insertion is to put the plugin in the mainframe and feel for the
proper alignment of the plugin edge connector with the socket of the
interface connector in the TM, then push the plugin home.

Of course check for incompatible family barriers and never insert
plugins with the mainframe energized.

Bob.

On 3/22/2019 3:02 AM, Adrian wrote:
Hi Colin,

Replacing the connector sounds like the right thing to do - not sure I
agree that using a NOS part is risky, there's a quadzillion backplane
connectors out there that have /not/ cracked with age after all, but I
order from Digikey regularly and could order up a new one if you want.

I'm more than happy to lend a hand. How practical that is for you I'm
not sure -'London' covers a big area!

If you are north(ish) of London then I'm just outside Cambridge and
should have enough stuff around to do that and fix any issues that may
arise, I've re-capped a couple of my TM500 series chassis and while a
little 'awkward' in parts there's nothing too tricky about taking them
apart.

Either shipping it to me or a visit - with free, quite passable coffee
- would work fine. Oh, no cost (other than return postage) of course!

Adrian

On 3/21/2019 3:22 PM, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io wrote:
a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new
one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of
56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward
but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't
have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor
de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).



 

I suppose I should mention that I live in Wimbledon, South-West London. Yes, close to the All-England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club.
Colin.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of bobh@...
Sent: 22 March 2019 16:34
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] TM504 backplane repair

I agree with you on the age factor maybe not being the real issue. Many
connector failures are due to just slamming the plugin into the
mainframe. Unfortunately the plugin edge connectors don't always align
just right with the socket of the TM interface connector.

Proper insertion is to put the plugin in the mainframe and feel for the
proper alignment of the plugin edge connector with the socket of the
interface connector in the TM, then push the plugin home.

Of course check for incompatible family barriers and never insert
plugins with the mainframe energized.

Bob.

On 3/22/2019 3:02 AM, Adrian wrote:
Hi Colin,

Replacing the connector sounds like the right thing to do - not sure I
agree that using a NOS part is risky, there's a quadzillion backplane
connectors out there that have /not/ cracked with age after all, but I
order from Digikey regularly and could order up a new one if you want.

I'm more than happy to lend a hand. How practical that is for you I'm
not sure -'London' covers a big area!

If you are north(ish) of London then I'm just outside Cambridge and
should have enough stuff around to do that and fix any issues that may
arise, I've re-capped a couple of my TM500 series chassis and while a
little 'awkward' in parts there's nothing too tricky about taking them
apart.

Either shipping it to me or a visit - with free, quite passable coffee
- would work fine. Oh, no cost (other than return postage) of course!

Adrian

On 3/21/2019 3:22 PM, Colin Herbert via Groups.Io wrote:
a) Unsolder the entire faulty connector and replace it with the new
one - this looks like a formidable task, since there are a total of
56 pins to unsolder and re-solder and access isn't straightforward
but it would be the most ideal option, I think. Unfortunately I don't
have a de-soldering tool, only a solder-sucker and some poor
de-soldering braid (I suppose I could buy a de-soldering tool).



Chuck Harris
 

Desoldering stations are great, but you have to use them
in ways that let them be really effective.

First, it is very important that the solder joint be clean,
fluxed, and has a solder in it that you can melt.

Second, once the tip settles into the pad as the surface solder
melts, count to 3 to make sure it is melted clear through.

Third, after the count, gently wiggle the tip from side
to side to make sure the pin is really free.

Fourth, turn on the vacuum while still wiggling a little bit.
This is to clear the solder from all sides of the pin.

One thing you don't want to do is scrub the pad with the tip
while you are wiggling... be gentle as the PCB adhesive is
very vulnerable when it is hot.

If a pad won't clear all the way through, re solder it and
try again.

Ground planes are the Achilles heels of desoldering stations.
You can turn the heat up a little, and increase the count to
10. Sometimes you just cannot win without adding some heat
with another soldering iron, or an underboard heater.

-Chuck Harris



Colin Herbert via Groups.Io wrote:

OK, so I bought a de-soldering station, but I don't seem to be able to free the mangled contact easily. I can also see that trying to remove the entire 56-pin connector would be a major task. I am going to try a few more ideas before I give up and forget the one mangled contact, but if I can remove it eventually, I may then just replace it with a good one, if I can.
Colin.


 

Hey Colin,

I don't think you need anything as fancy as a desolder station. Honestly I have found they tend to tear up pads. I have had better luck with an extractor and solder wick.

I have now replaced two headers in TM50x back planes. You just have to go slow and easy. I think it took me maybe 30 min to get them out once I had the PCB out. Both were done the following way.

1) Added a bit of flux with a Kester 951 flux pen


2) Added fresh solder to each pin (I like Kester 245 no clean)
3) Using an Soldapult "sucked out" the solder from each pin. Be sure the solder is fully heated before you engage the pullet.

4) anything that does not fully suck out add fresh solder and try again. Add flux before adding fresh solder.
5) Using a small flat jewelers screwdriver try to wiggle/break free each pin from the hole. Some just need a bit of flat force to break free, some will need you to heat them with an iron while pushing the pin to the middle of the pad at the same time. Some will require you to add solder, Soldapult and try again.
6) If you feel you have all the pins done then slowly pry the connector off from the other side with a flat blade screwdriver. Some pins will not pull, or be stuck and some will start to pull up. Find the "stuck pins" and go back to step 5.

Slowly working through these steps you should be able to get it open. Of course if you totally give up you can use a dremel tool to hack the plastic off leaving just the pins. Then heat each pin, pull out with a tweezers and then remove the solder in the hole with the Soldapult.

This does assume you have a good iron with decent thermal recovery. If you have just a simple once piece irons or one of those cheep Chineese irons it may not have quick enough thermal recovery to get the heat through the pins fast enough before the pads are damaged.

Good luck, it is a pain but worth it, and not that bad once you figure out the technique.


Chuck Harris
 

Wow! That is painful!

It takes me about 7 seconds per pin to get them out, and the
connector drops out. But, then I use a Pace desoldering station.

I'm sure anyone using a Hakko gets similar results.

-Chuck Harris

Hawker wrote:

Hey Colin,

I don't think you need anything as fancy as a desolder station. Honestly I have found they tend to tear up pads. I have had better luck with an extractor and solder wick.

I have now replaced two headers in TM50x back planes. You just have to go slow and easy. I think it took me maybe 30 min to get them out once I had the PCB out. Both were done the following way.

1) Added a bit of flux with a Kester 951 flux pen


2) Added fresh solder to each pin (I like Kester 245 no clean)
3) Using an Soldapult "sucked out" the solder from each pin. Be sure the solder is fully heated before you engage the pullet.

4) anything that does not fully suck out add fresh solder and try again. Add flux before adding fresh solder.
5) Using a small flat jewelers screwdriver try to wiggle/break free each pin from the hole. Some just need a bit of flat force to break free, some will need you to heat them with an iron while pushing the pin to the middle of the pad at the same time. Some will require you to add solder, Soldapult and try again.
6) If you feel you have all the pins done then slowly pry the connector off from the other side with a flat blade screwdriver. Some pins will not pull, or be stuck and some will start to pull up. Find the "stuck pins" and go back to step 5.

Slowly working through these steps you should be able to get it open. Of course if you totally give up you can use a dremel tool to hack the plastic off leaving just the pins. Then heat each pin, pull out with a tweezers and then remove the solder in the hole with the Soldapult.

This does assume you have a good iron with decent thermal recovery. If you have just a simple once piece irons or one of those cheep Chineese irons it may not have quick enough thermal recovery to get the heat through the pins fast enough before the pads are damaged.

Good luck, it is a pain but worth it, and not that bad once you figure out the technique.