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Replace/Repair TM 500 Module Side Panel Latch
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Greetings!
Does anybody have any experience removing or repairing the 1/4 turn latches found on the side panels of some TM 500 modules, or are there replacements available? I added a new album titled TM 500 Side Panel Latch with a picture of the part I¡¯m talking about¡not sure how to link that here¡apologies. Cory Oace |
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On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 07:01 PM, sweetbeats wrote:
/g/TekScopes/album?id=266281 Raymond |
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Cory,
I have no experience replacing the latch, but I have a side cover that looks exactly like yours, where the latch seems to have broken internally: the slotted side rotates, but the latch side does not. I also have a TM500 "toolbox" with a solid cover and a similar latch mechanism. The latch seems to be made of two parts, the latch side and the slotted side, which snap together on a central shaft. I would expect that you could push the center shaft out of the latch side with a small screwdriver or punch, but I haven't tried this. If your latch is broken like mine, however, you don't have much to lose by experimentation (nor do I, so I will see what I can achieve). One solution would be to simply glue to the two halves of the latch together, maybe by dripping some epoxy down the hole on the latch side. This would be a fairly permanent fix (you would not be able to take the latch apart again without some amount of destruction) but I imagine a permanent fix is kind of what you are looking for. -- Jeff Dutky |
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I have purchased TM500 plugins from reputable sellers (eg. Stewarts of Reading, Telford Electronics) and from less well-known purveyors on eBay and have found several broken latches of this type. The common "fix" seems to be to use a bit of some kind or insulated wire to wrap around the engaging parts. Since the casual observer will have no idea of this "fix" when the plug-in is in a power mainframe and in use, I can't see any problem with it. Of course, if someone were to manufacture facsimiles of the original latches and sell them at pocket-money prices, then I would be interested, but not at something like $50 each - that may be justifiable, but it is not economic, in my opinion. Others with deeper pockets may (and are welcome to) disagree.
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Colin. -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Jeff Dutky Sent: 20 July 2021 19:36 To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replace/Repair TM 500 Module Side Panel Latch Cory, I have no experience replacing the latch, but I have a side cover that looks exactly like yours, where the latch seems to have broken internally: the slotted side rotates, but the latch side does not. I also have a TM500 "toolbox" with a solid cover and a similar latch mechanism. The latch seems to be made of two parts, the latch side and the slotted side, which snap together on a central shaft. I would expect that you could push the center shaft out of the latch side with a small screwdriver or punch, but I haven't tried this. If your latch is broken like mine, however, you don't have much to lose by experimentation (nor do I, so I will see what I can achieve). One solution would be to simply glue to the two halves of the latch together, maybe by dripping some epoxy down the hole on the latch side. This would be a fairly permanent fix (you would not be able to take the latch apart again without some amount of destruction) but I imagine a permanent fix is kind of what you are looking for. -- Jeff Dutky |
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Before we start trying to manufacture a replacement (which I think is a fine idea, especially in this new age of 3D printing) I'm wondering if there is a Tek part number for these? I have the cover, but not the thing it goes to (whatever thing that is). I don't expect to find a service manual for the TM500 toolbox, but the perforated cover must go to something other than the toolbox.
Anybody know what that latched cover is for? I have been unsuccessful in separating the two halves of my damaged latch, but I've been trying to do so non-destructively, as I'd like to have them to take dimensions off of. It looks like the halves snap together, as I said, but more specifically there appear to be compressible, one-way flanges on the inner shaft that lock the halves together. There are also two vertical flanges (very thin) that engage one half to the other, and it appears that those have sheared off in my failed latch, so that the two halves now rotate independently. If I can get a good set of measurements on the two halves I could try to draw up and print a replacement. I'd think hat you could design a sturdier version of this part that wouldn't tend to fail in this way (e.g. rather than a circular shaft with flimsy vertical flanges, why not make the shaft square, or rectangular? It would be much less likely to shear off if there were more material). -- Jeff Dutky |
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On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 05:59 PM, Jeff Dutky wrote:
Before we start trying to manufacture a replacement (which I think is a fineThe latch part numbers should be 105-0932-00 and 214-3364-00. They are described in great detail in the Mechanical Common Design Parts Catalog from November 1988. dan |
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By latched cover, do you meant just the blank cover?? I have two of them, used for improving airflow and keeping debris and fingers out of empty compartments.
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-Dave On Tuesday, July 20, 2021, 02:59:54 PM PDT, Jeff Dutky <jeff.dutky@...> wrote:
Before we start trying to manufacture a replacement (which I think is a fine idea, especially in this new age of 3D printing) I'm wondering if there is a Tek part number for these? I have the cover, but not the thing it goes to (whatever thing that is). I don't expect to find a service manual for the TM500 toolbox, but the perforated cover must go to something other than the toolbox. Anybody know what that latched cover is for? I have been unsuccessful in separating the two halves of my damaged latch, but I've been trying to do so non-destructively, as I'd like to have them to take dimensions off of. It looks like the halves snap together, as I said, but more specifically there appear to be compressible, one-way flanges on the inner shaft that lock the halves together. There are also two vertical flanges (very thin) that engage one half to the other, and it appears that those have sheared off in my failed latch, so that the two halves now rotate independently. If I can get a good set of measurements on the two halves I could try to draw up and print a replacement. I'd think hat you could design a sturdier version of this part that wouldn't tend to fail in this way (e.g. rather than a circular shaft with flimsy vertical flanges, why not make the shaft square, or rectangular? It would be much less likely to shear off if there were more material). -- Jeff Dutky |
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On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 04:59 PM, Jeff Dutky wrote:
Jeff, PG506 has them on at least some examples. These are used only on plug-ins that include the rear support frame. I will need to look as I think I have a couple of others which have the same side covers and latch mechanisms. . -- Michael Lynch Dardanelle, AR |
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The trick to gluing the two halves together, if that is necessary, is avoiding the adhesive binding against the side panel itself. This leaves little surface area to bond between the two halves. I¡¯ve got more pondering to do on that option. I have one broken one. The other one I figured out how to separate the two without breaking something. I used a pair of hemostats to pinch the locking ears on the external piece. With the hemostats I was able to pinch and gently push, ultimately popping the external half out of the internal latch piece. And, using care, was able to do so without damaging the ears and core of the external piece so much that I can¡¯t reassemble it. Is it marred? Yes, but it¡¯s minimal.
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I have a small collection of TM500 plug-ins, of which these have these latches:
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PG506 1 latch missing TG501 SG503 Both latches missing FG503 PS503A I agree with Dan on the part-numbers, which are also shown in some of the Service Manuals (my DC503A Manual shows both types of side-panel (referred to as "shield, electrical") with the earlier clip-in type ending at p/n B035909 and the newer latching type starting at p/n B035910. My DC503A has the earlier side-panels. It is possibly worth noting that both these side-panels and the earlier ones which just clip into place come in two flavours - perforated and non-perforated. This is presumably because some plug-ins generate more heat than others and need extra ventilation (?). Colin. -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Michael W. Lynch via groups.io Sent: 21 July 2021 02:52 To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replace/Repair TM 500 Module Side Panel Latch On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 04:59 PM, Jeff Dutky wrote: Jeff, PG506 has them on at least some examples. These are used only on plug-ins that include the rear support frame. I will need to look as I think I have a couple of others which have the same side covers and latch mechanisms. . -- Michael Lynch Dardanelle, AR |
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Both my PS 503A modules have clip-in side panels. And as to the side panels being perforated or not, my assumption for which ones are perforated and which are not is it is heat-related, but this is not consistent either¡my parts DM 501A has perforated panels, my operational DM 501A does not¡need to look at serial numbers.
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On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 07:59 AM, Jeff Dutky wrote:
Before we start trying to manufacture a replacement (which I think is a fineThere are existing 3D models for these. I'm not sure where I got mine, probably Thingiverse or Tinkercad, but I've printed a bucn of them and they work. I'm happy to supply either the models via email or 3D prints at cost-plus. EJP |
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I modeled these up and put them on Shapeways, and I understand some people
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have had success with those. You can buy prints, or you can download the models and print them yourself. Here are the links, in case anyone else needs some: I don't take a markup on those, and the models are free to use as you like: . Siggi ?ann fim., 22. j¨²l. 2021 kl. 06:06 skrifa?i EJP <esmond.pitt@...>: On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 07:59 AM, Jeff Dutky wrote:Before we start trying to manufacture a replacement (which I think is afineidea, especially in this new age of 3D printing)There are existing 3D models for these. I'm not sure where I got mine, |
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Shapeways shipping to UK has got stupid expensive lately. I need to find a UK based 3D printer that will SLA print in nylon.
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PS If I do find someone, will you make the models available for DL? Thanks David -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Siggi via groups.io Sent: 22 July 2021 11:59 To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Replace/Repair TM 500 Module Side Panel Latch I modeled these up and put them on Shapeways, and I understand some people have had success with those. You can buy prints, or you can download the models and print them yourself. Here are the links, in case anyone else needs some: I don't take a markup on those, and the models are free to use as you like: . Siggi |
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Hello Siggi,
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I notice the price for your parts is quite inexpensive. Is that price set by Shapeways? I ask because I have a small 3D printing job that I would like to have printed and wondering how much it would cost to have that done by Shapeways. Please feel free to contact me off-list if you prefer. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "Siggi via groups.io" <siggi@...> |
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On Thu, Jul 22, 2021 at 9:29 AM n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:
I notice the price for your parts is quite inexpensive. These are tiny parts and I feel the price for each is quite ... exorbitant ... especially once you add shipping to the frozen tundra where I live - Canada. The/a/one problem is that there's a fixed cost per part, as they batch a bunch of prints together for a run. Afterwards a human has to sift through the unused medium to find and identify and package the parts. I remember reading a suggestion somewhere to model batches of small parts such that they're connected together in some way, as this may amortize the fixed cost over a number of parts. Is that price set by Shapeways? Yes, the price is set by ShapeWays. There is an option to create a "store" and to add a "commision" on top of that, which would then presumably increase the price from the base price ShapeWays sets. I ask because I have a small 3D printing job that I would like to haveIt's easy to check how much ShapeWays would ask for your print job. You just create an account and upload your model, after which they'll be happy to give you a cost for printing in a variety of materials. |
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I was trying to avoid creating yet another account with yet another password on yet another website merely for the purpose of determining a cost for something but I suppose it's necessary.
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This would be a one-off job so I presume the cost will be quite a bit higher but wanted to ask. I got a quote from a local place which is reasonable so that's an option. A friend has a printer and said he would attempt to print one for me but his filament/PLA is older and he isn't sure how well it will turn out. I'll most likely see what he can do first and go from there. BTW, the part is a retrofitted bezel for a Fluke 8050A for which I've developed an OLED readout that uses two of the small 0.96" displays to replace the now-defective LCD. It works well so I would like to get it mounted to the front panel in such a way that it looks somewhat decent. Thanks again, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "Siggi via groups.io" <siggi@...> |
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On Thu, Jul 22, 2021 at 10:26 AM n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:
I was trying to avoid creating yet another account with yet anotherI hear you, although I seem to remember you can use other authentication providers to log in to ShapeWays. Maybe that'll work for you. This would be a one-off job so I presume the cost will be quite a bitI don't think they charge anything extra for one-offs, as their process seems to be entirely automated until post-printing. Good luck! |
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Siggi,
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I connected via another authentication provider and submitted my design. Cost for plastic, including shipping and fees, was $0.70 more than what I was quoted by the local printing shop that I'd checked. Of course, I could have it printed in gold but that seems to drive the cost up so I'll probably stick with plastic. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "Siggi via groups.io" <siggi@...> |
Raymond Domp Frank
Michael W. Lynch
David C. Partridge
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