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I should do the recapping of my Tektronix 2465 (not A / B), I found on this group the list produced by Menahem Yachad of CondorAudio but from Mouser (Italy) there are some parts not available.
Since I am not expert in the particular characteristics of the parts, I ask if someone can help me to choose alternative parts for these components:

Board Original Value Mouser Part# Note Warning
A3 1 uF 50v nonplzd 505-MKS2C041001FJC00 Film capacitor 1uF 63 Volt 5% not available
A1 220 uF 16v ELCTLT 647-UHE1E221MPD Aluminum-radial electrolytic capacitors 25volts 220uF 8x11.5 20% 3.5LS not available
A5 47 uF 25v ELCTLT 647-UHE1E470MDD Aluminum-radial electrolytic capacitors 25volt 47uF 5x11 20% 2LS not available
A2 10 uF 100v ELCTLT 647-UPW2A100MED Aluminum-radial electrolytic capacitors 100volt 10uF AEC-Q200 not available
A2 7.0 ohm NTC Thermistor 995-SG210 7.0 ohm NTC Thermistor 7 ohm 4 AMP minimun 2000pcs

Many thanks and cordial greetings,
Giorgio

Giorgio,

80-R82DC4100DQ60J for 1mfd
80-R82CC4470DQ30K for the three 4,7mfd on the power supply board
647-ULD1C221MPD1TD for 220mfd
647-ULD2C100MPD1TD for 10mfd. These are 160V.
647-UHE1C121MED for replacing the two 100mfd to the TO-220 rectifier. The additional capacitance of 20mfd will not hurt. I used 150mfd ULD in my B version with no problems.
527-CL60 for the NTC This is 10 ohms which will not hurt.
647-LGR2D391MELA30 for replacing the 290mfd. These I used in mine.
647-UHE1E470MDD1TD for the 47mfd. If you are willing to wait for the ULD, they will be in later this year.
594-MBE04140C1503FC1, 279-H4P180KFDA and 279-H4P180KFDA for the three resistors on the high voltage board that are voltage stressed and can open. They got back to the -300V supply. They are the 150,000, 180,000 and 430,000 ohm resistors.
See if Mouser has the ULD types for ones you want, if not, go to the UHE type.
The two 390,000 ohm 1/8W bleeders across the 290 mfd condensers can be lowered to say 100,000 ohms at 1w if you want the voltage to bleed off faster.

Mark

A3 1 uF 50v nonplzd 505-MKS2C041001FJC00 Film capacitor 1uF 63 Volt 5%

That is an error in my very old list.

It should be 4.7uF

Giorgio,

I may have TDK/Epcos B57238S809M 16 mm 8R 5,5A , solded 3 euro,
or B57153S0150M000, 15R, 1.8 A, possible 2 in // for the current, my supplier gives 2 to 3 weeks (to be realy verified...) solded 1 euro each.

Regards

Alain
(France)

I'm also planning to recap my 2465 (plain vanilla, not -A or -B) as some RIFA's have already exploded, so if Giorgio or someone else puts together an up-to-date list could it please be posted here in the files section?? Ideally it would be an update of Menachem Yachad's list including board/component identification and Mouser or Digikey part numbers.

Thanks in anticipation,

Graham
(Down under)

I thank everyone for their help.

M Yachad: That is an error in my very old list.

No, it's my mistake, it's "A2 board", not A3: C1274 and C1291.
Tek "2465" should not have C1292.

I do have kits available, which I custom assemble, to suit your EXACT machine.
I'll need CLEAR photos of your A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A9 A14 PCB's

Saves you the time and hassle of sorting and sourcing, and wondering if you made the correct choices.

Here's the ebay ad



Forum members who buy via my contact directly here (NOT via ebay), get a 15% discount.

Yachadm AT gmail DOT com
CondorAudio

On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 02:06 AM, M Yachad wrote:

I do have kits available, which I custom assemble, to suit your EXACT machine.
I'll need CLEAR photos of your A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A9 A14 PCB's

Saves you the time and hassle of sorting and sourcing, and wondering if you
made the correct choices.

Here's the ebay ad


Forum members who buy via my contact directly here (NOT via ebay), get a 15%
discount.

That's a VERY well thought-out, well-written ebay ad. Anyone here who's trying to recap one of those scopes should just take advantage of the 15% discount for TekScopes members and buy one of these kits directly.

One question: The caps in the grey and red rectangular boxes, I thought those were film caps. Why would they need to be replaced? Do those have a history of failint? I have some boards from the '60s with Wima film caps like those. Those Wima caps are al still good.

Or did Tek use something less reliable than Wima?

I had already considered the option of Condor Audio a few months ago, when looking directly at the site, the cost was lower than the current offer but we know that the cost of living goes up continuously.

But I also need other parts for other jobs, which alone would not justify the € 20 shipping cost from Mouser. In this way I exceed 50 € of goods and the shipping is free.

I am retired, sure that for those who do not want to waste some time, Yachad's offer is interesting.

Giorgio

One question: The caps in the grey and red rectangular boxes, I thought those
were film caps. Why would they need to be replaced? Do those have a history of
failint? I have some boards from the '60s with Wima film caps like those.
Those Wima caps are al still good.

Or did Tek use something less reliable than Wima?

Jim
Yes, they are film caps - The grey ones are Vishay rated at 440VAC, and the red ones are Wima DC.

They are all for use on ONLY the PSU block, which as we all know has the original prone-to-explode Rifa Paper caps, which are also especially under-rated for any scopes used in 230VAC areas.
Also, the PSU block has NO Wima caps factory-installed, and the kit's Wima's upgrade certain electrolytics and tantalums.

The objective is to do this job right, once only, and never have to worry about servicing it again in our lifetimes, including the 40-year-old's among us old-timers! So far, my own 2465B is now 12 years since I overhauled it, using this exact kit, and never had even a tiny hiccup.

The Wima's which Tek DID install on the other PCB's are NOT replaced.

647-ULD2C100MPD1TD for 10mfd. These are 160V.
647-UHE1C121MED for replacing the two 100mfd to the TO-220 rectifier. The additional capacitance of 20mfd will not hurt.

Sorry Mark, I ask for 2 clarifications:
I should use 647-ULD2C100MPD1TD (10uF, 160v.) Also instead of 10uF, 100v. (C1120 etc.) or only for C1132?

Which are the capacitors where to use of the 647-UHE1C121MED (120uF, 16v.) For the replacement of the two 100mfd to the TO-220 rectifier?
I only find 100uF, 25v capacitors.

Thanks a lot

iv3ddm

C1132 would be 160V. C1120 can be 100V. C1130 would be 160V. If you want to use the original values of capacitance, fine. They can be higher capacitance if you want. C1101 and C1102 would be 25V. If I put 16V numbers there, it was my mistake. In mine, I used 16V or 25V types (I do not have mine open at this time) for the 5V supplies and 35V for the 15V supplies. These I had in stock along with some other parts. I ordered what I needed. The 330mfd Mr. Yachad says to use, I did. The kit he sells is nice. He is exactly right about the film caps! Replace those! The X1 and Y1 can be used if you want even higher voltage capacity than the 2 types. In mine, the 1 types are 400-500VAC types. A 2 type can replace a 1 type. A 2 type is not recommended to replace a 1 type. The ones Mr. Yachad uses are also an excellent/ideal choice. If you are on 230-240V mains, the higher voltage caps are best. If you have not already done so, go to Mr. Yachad's site about 2465B recapping. I used that site as a reference do to mine. It was my first time working on this model. I did notice in mine the two 39meg resistors (R710 and R910) on the bottom board were high, 45 and 50meg, and the 100meg on the high voltage board was 170meg. They are now 40 and 100meg respectively. I could not get 39meg without a long string of resistors. Mine also did not have R1010 and R1019 across the NTCs. That was factory done.

Mark

You may already know but at least in some service manuals component placement diagram shows location of C1132 and C1115 swapped (wrong). This was the case for my 2467B, I assume it also applies to 2465B. While desoldering take a note of the original value to make sure.
Ozan

Ozan,

I do know these can be swapped in some manuals. I made sure to change the parts one at a time to make sure. It is good to remind us to keep from blowing parts. Anyone of us can make a mistake somewhere.

One thing that I have not seen mentioned, although it may have in the past, is using shielded mains cords to reduce noise. I have these on things that use IEC cords. Computers, monitors, SMPS, being near enough to a-m/s-w/ssb transmitter, etc. generate noise that can interfere with other things. The shielding does help with the noise. I will use shielded cords on things as a replacement on other things that are or should be grounded.

Mark

I don't recall exactly to which model(s) this may apply, but I think one of the 24xx models have the polarity marked incorrectly on the PC board for one of the filter capacitors. Apologies if I have this confused with a completely different model/series but I thought it worthy of mentioning here.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

Shielded mains cords just move the noise to the
next open spot, which is the unshielded plastic
boxes, and unshielded ROMEX wiring used in most
USA houses.

Better would be to put one of the snap-on ferrite
suppressors on the cord close to the scope.

I have done this on most of my electrically noisy
equipment, and it has done a super job of knocking
down the noise.

-Chuck Harris


On Fri, 26 Mar 2021 10:37:57 -0700 "Mark Vincent"
<orangeglowaudio@...> wrote:

Ozan,

...

One thing that I have not seen mentioned, although it may have
in the past, is using shielded mains cords to reduce noise. I have
these on things that use IEC cords.

...

Mark

All of the capacitors on the 2465 supplies have their polarity
markers pointing in the same direction. A few are non-polar
electrolytics, which don't matter.

-Chuck Harris


On Fri, 26 Mar 2021 13:46:03 -0400 (EDT) "n4buq" <n4buq@...>
wrote:

I don't recall exactly to which model(s) this may apply, but I think
one of the 24xx models have the polarity marked incorrectly on the PC
board for one of the filter capacitors. Apologies if I have this
confused with a completely different model/series but I thought it
worthy of mentioning here.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----

From: "Ozan" <ozan_g@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 11:37:29 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Recapping Tektronix 2465

You may already know but at least in some service manuals component
placement diagram shows location of C1132 and C1115 swapped
(wrong). This was the case for my 2467B, I assume it also applies
to 2465B. While desoldering take a note of the original value to
make sure. Ozan

iv3ddm

C1132 would be 160V. C1120 can be 100V. C1130 would be 160V.
If you want
to use the original values of capacitance, fine. They can be
higher capacitance if you want. C1101 and C1102 would be 25V. If
I put 16V numbers there, it was my mistake. In mine, I used 16V
or 25V types (I do not have mine open at this time) for the 5V
supplies and 35V for the 15V supplies. These I had in stock along
with some other parts. I ordered what I needed. The
330mfd Mr. Yachad says to use, I did. The kit he sells is nice.
He is exactly
right about the film caps! Replace those! The X1 and Y1 can be
used if you want even higher voltage capacity than the 2 types.
In mine, the 1 types are
400-500VAC types. A 2 type can replace a 1 type. A 2 type is not
recommended
to replace a 1 type. The ones Mr. Yachad uses are also an
excellent/ideal choice. If you are on 230-240V mains, the higher
voltage caps are best. If you
have not already done so, go to Mr. Yachad's site about 2465B
recapping. I used that site as a reference do to mine. It was my
first time working on this
model. I did notice in mine the two 39meg resistors (R710 and
R910) on the bottom board were high, 45 and 50meg, and the 100meg
on the high voltage board
was 170meg. They are now 40 and 100meg respectively. I could not
get 39meg without a long string of resistors. Mine also did not
have R1010 and R1019 across the NTCs. That was factory done.

Mark

Thanks for clarifying that, Chuck.

Was there a different model where that was a problem? I seem to recall the issue but don't recall which model(s) were affected. Hopefully I'm not crossing up Tek and HP with this...

Barry - N4BUQ

Not that I have ever seen. There are some versions of
the manual that have two capacitor numbers swapped on the
parts diagram... But, if you remove the old, and stuff
the new capacitors one at a time, that won't be a problem.

Where there is a problem is in replacing the SMD capacitors
on the late series 2465B's. The polarity of these electrolytics
is not marked in an obvious way in all cases. The capacitor
that is away on the corner of the board is not marked.

-Chuck Harris


On Fri, 26 Mar 2021 14:11:51 -0400 (EDT) "n4buq" <n4buq@...>
wrote:

Thanks for clarifying that, Chuck.

Was there a different model where that was a problem? I seem to
recall the issue but don't recall which model(s) were affected.
Hopefully I'm not crossing up Tek and HP with this...

Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----

From: "Chuck Harris" <cfharris@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 12:57:40 PM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Recapping Tektronix 2465

All of the capacitors on the 2465 supplies have their polarity
markers pointing in the same direction. A few are non-polar
electrolytics, which don't matter.

-Chuck Harris


On Fri, 26 Mar 2021 13:46:03 -0400 (EDT) "n4buq" <n4buq@...>
wrote:

I don't recall exactly to which model(s) this may apply, but I
think one of the 24xx models have the polarity marked incorrectly
on the PC board for one of the filter capacitors. Apologies if I
have this confused with a completely different model/series but I
thought it worthy of mentioning here.

Thanks,
Barry - N4BUQ

----- Original Message -----

From: "Ozan" <ozan_g@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, March 26, 2021 11:37:29 AM
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Recapping Tektronix 2465

You may already know but at least in some service manuals
component placement diagram shows location of C1132 and C1115
swapped (wrong). This was the case for my 2467B, I assume it
also applies to 2465B. While desoldering take a note of the
original value to make sure. Ozan

iv3ddm

C1132 would be 160V. C1120 can be 100V. C1130 would be
160V. If you want
to use the original values of capacitance, fine. They can be
higher capacitance if you want. C1101 and C1102 would be 25V.
If I put 16V numbers there, it was my mistake. In mine, I
used 16V or 25V types (I do not have mine open at this time)
for the 5V supplies and 35V for the 15V supplies. These I had
in stock along with some other parts. I ordered what I
needed. The 330mfd Mr. Yachad says to use, I did. The kit he
sells is nice. He is exactly
right about the film caps! Replace those! The X1 and Y1 can be
used if you want even higher voltage capacity than the 2
types. In mine, the 1 types are
400-500VAC types. A 2 type can replace a 1 type. A 2 type is
not recommended
to replace a 1 type. The ones Mr. Yachad uses are also an
excellent/ideal choice. If you are on 230-240V mains, the
higher voltage caps are best. If you
have not already done so, go to Mr. Yachad's site about 2465B
recapping. I used that site as a reference do to mine. It
was my first time working on this
model. I did notice in mine the two 39meg resistors (R710 and
R910) on the bottom board were high, 45 and 50meg, and the
100meg on the high voltage board
was 170meg. They are now 40 and 100meg respectively. I could
not get 39meg without a long string of resistors. Mine also
did not have R1010 and R1019 across the NTCs. That was
factory done.

Mark

On Fri, Mar 26, 2021 at 01:46 PM, Chuck Harris wrote:

A 2 type can replace a 1 type. A 2 type is
not recommended to replace a 1 type.

Pretty sure there's a typo in here somewhere.... ;-)