Hello everyone.
I just got this wonderful 468 that is in great physical shape, in and out (the boards are gorgeous!), but sadly I believe that it has a triggering issue. I am rather new to electronics and this is my first scope so bear with me.
Simply put, I can't seem to trigger on any signal and adjusting the trigger level does not seem to do anything. Let's pretend for a minute that I want to display a stable cal. signal (300mV, 1kHz square wave). Here are my settings :
Non store mode.
Vertical - Volts/div: .1V - Vert mode: Ch1 - Coupling: AC
Horizontal - Horiz Display: A - Delay time position: fully counterclockwise - Time/div: .1ms -X10 mag: OFF
Trigger Trig mode: auto A trigger source: norm Trigger slope: positive A trigger holdoff: norm
No mater how I adjust the trigger level, what I get on the screen are two solid traces, shaking ever so slightly, which allows me to guess that there's a waveform somewhere in there. The trigger LED is off. The really bizarre thing happens when I switch to "norm" trigger mode and fidget with the slope switch: every time I change the trigger slope from + to - and vice versa, the scope triggers for a very brief instant, the trigger LED goes on and immediately turns off, and the ghost of the square wave appears on the screen. There is one way that I can somewhat stabilize the signal: by adjusting the trigger holdoff level until the trace drifts slowly from one side of the screen to the other (it sometimes goes back and forth a few times a minute), at which point I'm able to clearly see a square wave (which by the way seems way out of spec: I estimated 1.6kHz).
As far as troubleshooting is concerned, the only thing I was able to do with my minimal test equipment is check the DC voltages, especially the +55V rail, and they all appear to be correct. I haven't checked the digital supply voltages but I assume this wouldn't have an effect on the analogue end.
I am sorry for this long wall of dry text, with no pictures but I am currently away from the scope.
Thanks in advance for your help! Jerome.
|
Feed the test signal into the Ch1 and the Ext trigger input. Select Ext on
the trigger source. What happens?
?
Tom
?
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----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2012 10:25
PM
Subject: [TekScopes] 468 triggering
issue
?
Hello everyone.
I just got this wonderful 468 that is in great physical shape, in and out
(the boards are gorgeous!), but sadly I believe that it has a triggering
issue. I am rather new to electronics and this is my first scope so bear with
me.
Simply put, I can't seem to trigger on any signal and adjusting the
trigger level does not seem to do anything. Let's pretend for a minute that I
want to display a stable cal. signal (300mV, 1kHz square wave). Here are my
settings :
Non store mode.
Vertical
- Volts/div: .1V
- Vert mode: Ch1
- Coupling: AC
Horizontal
- Horiz Display: A
- Delay time position: fully counterclockwise
- Time/div: .1ms
-X10 mag: OFF
Trigger
Trig mode: auto
A trigger source: norm
Trigger slope: positive
A trigger holdoff: norm
No mater how I adjust the trigger level, what I get on the screen are two
solid traces, shaking ever so slightly, which allows me to guess that there's
a waveform somewhere in there. The trigger LED is off. The really bizarre
thing happens when I switch to "norm" trigger mode and fidget with the slope
switch: every time I change the trigger slope from + to - and vice versa, the
scope triggers for a very brief instant, the trigger LED goes on and
immediately turns off, and the ghost of the square wave appears on the screen.
There is one way that I can somewhat stabilize the signal: by adjusting the
trigger holdoff level until the trace drifts slowly from one side of the
screen to the other (it sometimes goes back and forth a few times a minute),
at which point I'm able to clearly see a square wave (which by the way seems
way out of spec: I estimated 1.6kHz).
As far as troubleshooting is concerned, the only thing I was able to do
with my minimal test equipment is check the DC voltages, especially the +55V
rail, and they all appear to be correct. I haven't checked the digital supply
voltages but I assume this wouldn't have an effect on the analogue end.
I am sorry for this long wall of dry text, with no pictures but I am
currently away from the scope.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Jerome.
|
It looks like I'm going to need some more coax for this :( But if I go into "A Trig View" mode, change source to ext. and press the beam finder button, a straight but slightly distorted trace appears beneath the signal and here again adjusting the trigger level doesn't change anything.
Next thing on my to-buy list : bnc to bnc coax and a T adapter.
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--- In TekScopes@..., "Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@...> wrote: Feed the test signal into the Ch1 and the Ext trigger input. Select Ext on the trigger source. What happens?
Tom
|
Alright I realized I could couple the cal. signal into the ext. trigger bnc with my second scope probe... silly me! Unfortunately it didn't change anything, meaning that I still have my untriggered signal no matter how much I turn that trigger level knob. I have been patiently browsing the service manual (though I have not read it religiously cover to cover quite yet) and I haven't found a good chart for troubleshooting the triggering section yet. For all I know the problem could be more general and not be caused by faulty circuitry on the trigger board at all!
Thanks a lot Tom for your input.
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--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" wrote: > > > > > It looks like I'm going to need some more coax for this :( > But if I go into "A Trig View" mode, change source to ext. and press the beam finder button, a straight but slightly distorted trace appears beneath the signal and here again adjusting the trigger level doesn't change anything. > > Next thing on my to-buy list : bnc to bnc coax and a T adapter. > > --- In TekScopes@..., "Tom Miller" tmiller11147@ wrote: > > > > Feed the test signal into the Ch1 and the Ext trigger input. Select Ext on the trigger source. What happens? > > > > Tom >
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Another suggestion: Set the SOURCE switch to LINE triggering, and with the vertical sensitivity cranked up pretty high (i.e., like 100 mV) on the channel that your probe's connected to, touch the probe tip to your finger. You should see a triggered 60 Hz signal (assuming your house current is 60 Hz), assuming that your body is not grounded. Alternately, use an old AC adapter ("wall wart") that has an AC output, but turn the channel's vertical sensitivity down (i.e., like 5V).
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--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@...> wrote: Alright I realized I could couple the cal. signal into the ext. trigger bnc with my second scope probe... silly me! Unfortunately it didn't change anything, meaning that I still have my untriggered signal no matter how much I turn that trigger level knob. I have been patiently browsing the service manual (though I have not read it religiously cover to cover quite yet) and I haven't found a good chart for troubleshooting the triggering section yet. For all I know the problem could be more general and not be caused by faulty circuitry on the trigger board at all! Thanks a lot Tom for your input. Jerome.
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@> wrote:
It looks like I'm going to need some more coax for this :( But if I go into "A Trig View" mode, change source to ext. and press the beam finder button, a straight but slightly distorted trace appears beneath the signal and here again adjusting the trigger level doesn't change anything.
Next thing on my to-buy list : bnc to bnc coax and a T adapter.
--- In TekScopes@..., "Tom Miller" tmiller11147@ wrote:
Feed the test signal into the Ch1 and the Ext trigger input. Select
Ext on the trigger source. What happens?
Tom
|
Thanks for your suggestions jtjewell83. Sadly I was not able to trigger on a line signal (either picking it up from my finger or from a 24V AC signal). I have checked the trigger level pot and there doesn't appear to be any short or open circuit. The only thing that "works" about this pot seems to be the slope switch, which enables me to trigger on a signal for a fleeting moment in NORM trig mode, as I have described in a previous post (I have just now noticed that when I exercise this switch from + to - and vice versa in AUTO trig mode, the trace drifts ever so slightly faster for a fleeting instant. It doesn't briefly trigger as it does in NORM though). I am going to have to make a little video to give you all a better picture of what is going on. I might be doing something completely stupid! I am also in the process of reading the "Theory of Operation" section from the service manual and looking at the block diagrams and troubleshooting charts. There could be something wrong with the signal picked up from the CH1 preamp board that prevents the trigger circuitry to generate a trigger signal (if that makes any sense whatsoever!)
I'll keep you posted this weekend, and thanks again for the support. I am learning so much already, I do not regret an instant my purchasing this scope. Now if only I could buy another functional one to troubleshoot the Tek :)
Cheers, Jerome.
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--- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" <jtjewell83@...> wrote: Another suggestion: Set the SOURCE switch to LINE triggering, and with the vertical sensitivity cranked up pretty high (i.e., like 100 mV) on the channel that your probe's connected to, touch the probe tip to your finger. You should see a triggered 60 Hz signal (assuming your house current is 60 Hz), assuming that your body is not grounded. Alternately, use an old AC adapter ("wall wart") that has an AC output, but turn the channel's vertical sensitivity down (i.e., like 5V).
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@> wrote:
Alright I realized I could couple the cal. signal into the ext. trigger bnc with my second scope probe... silly me! Unfortunately it didn't change anything, meaning that I still have my untriggered signal no matter how much I turn that trigger level knob. I have been patiently browsing the service manual (though I have not read it religiously cover to cover quite yet) and I haven't found a good chart for troubleshooting the triggering section yet. For all I know the problem could be more general and not be caused by faulty circuitry on the trigger board at all! Thanks a lot Tom for your input. Jerome.
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@> wrote:
It looks like I'm going to need some more coax for this :( But if I go into "A Trig View" mode, change source to ext. and press the beam finder button, a straight but slightly distorted trace appears beneath the signal and here again adjusting the trigger level doesn't change anything.
Next thing on my to-buy list : bnc to bnc coax and a T adapter.
--- In TekScopes@..., "Tom Miller" tmiller11147@ wrote:
Feed the test signal into the Ch1 and the Ext trigger input. Select
Ext on the trigger source. What happens?
Tom
|
So here's a new episode in my troubleshooting adventures. While following one of the diagrams (troubleshooting diagram number 3, the non-storage portion), I encountered a note recommending that I disable the storage section of the scope. It took me a while but I eventually found directions on how to do this. But these are kind of crude and I am not sure I did everything correctly:
1. Disconnect P3008 from the A12 Trigger Generator Sweep Logic board (see Figure 8-17) 2. Disconnect P483 from the A23 circuit board and connect a jumper between the two square-pin connectors on the board. I found this to be a bit confusing: is it asking to short the two pins of conector P483 with a jumper (which I did by soldering a piece of wire) or should I short more than one connector, and if so which one? 3. Move P307 (at the rear of A14 Vertical Mode Switch board) to the Test Mode position (see figure 8-15). But what is this Test Mode position? I am sure it is referenced somewhere in the 600 pages but after a couple hours of skimming through both volumes I can't seem to find it. There's no mention of a test mode connector on A14's schematic. The only thing I could see is this other connector, P206, that is sitting on top of P307. I switched 307 with 206 it but the scope wouldn't display anything and the fan was not turning anymore.
So I must have gone wrong somewhere and If anyone knows how to disable the storage unit, any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your patience with my lack of experience, I'm really enjoying this repair so far! Jerome.
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Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@...> wrote:
Thanks for your suggestions jtjewell83. Sadly I was not able to trigger on a line signal (either picking it up from my finger or from a 24V AC signal). I have checked the trigger level pot and there doesn't appear to be any short or open circuit. The only thing that "works" about this pot seems to be the slope switch, which enables me to trigger on a signal for a fleeting moment in NORM trig mode, as I have described in a previous post (I have just now noticed that when I exercise this switch from + to - and vice versa in AUTO trig mode, the trace drifts ever so slightly faster for a fleeting instant. It doesn't briefly trigger as it does in NORM though). I am going to have to make a little video to give you all a better picture of what is going on. I might be doing something completely stupid! I am also in the process of reading the "Theory of Operation" section from the service manual and looking at the block diagrams and troubleshooting charts. There could be something wrong with the signal picked up from the CH1 preamp board that prevents the trigger circuitry to generate a trigger signal (if that makes any sense whatsoever!)
I'll keep you posted this weekend, and thanks again for the support. I am learning so much already, I do not regret an instant my purchasing this scope. Now if only I could buy another functional one to troubleshoot the Tek :)
Cheers, Jerome.
--- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" <jtjewell83@> wrote:
Another suggestion: Set the SOURCE switch to LINE triggering, and with the vertical sensitivity cranked up pretty high (i.e., like 100 mV) on the channel that your probe's connected to, touch the probe tip to your finger. You should see a triggered 60 Hz signal (assuming your house current is 60 Hz), assuming that your body is not grounded. Alternately, use an old AC adapter ("wall wart") that has an AC output, but turn the channel's vertical sensitivity down (i.e., like 5V).
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@> wrote:
Alright I realized I could couple the cal. signal into the ext. trigger bnc with my second scope probe... silly me! Unfortunately it didn't change anything, meaning that I still have my untriggered signal no matter how much I turn that trigger level knob. I have been patiently browsing the service manual (though I have not read it religiously cover to cover quite yet) and I haven't found a good chart for troubleshooting the triggering section yet. For all I know the problem could be more general and not be caused by faulty circuitry on the trigger board at all! Thanks a lot Tom for your input. Jerome.
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@> wrote:
It looks like I'm going to need some more coax for this :( But if I go into "A Trig View" mode, change source to ext. and press the beam finder button, a straight but slightly distorted trace appears beneath the signal and here again adjusting the trigger level doesn't change anything.
Next thing on my to-buy list : bnc to bnc coax and a T adapter.
--- In TekScopes@..., "Tom Miller" tmiller11147@ wrote:
Feed the test signal into the Ch1 and the Ext trigger input. Select
Ext on the trigger source. What happens?
Tom
|
Jerome,
Do you have another scope that you can use to trace signals with?
Why is the fan no running now? Did you blow-out a power supply line?
If I get sometime today, I'll try to dig into the books and give you some more suggestions.
I have 2 working 468's that I've repaired. Both had problems in the digital storage section. In one, it was bad EPROMs. In the other, it was the microprocessor's TTL clock oscillator. The 468 scope is neat scope. I use mine ocassionally to troubleshoot things like switching power supplies and other oscillator circuits running under about 5 MHz.
Jimmy
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--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@...> wrote:
So here's a new episode in my troubleshooting adventures. While following one of the diagrams (troubleshooting diagram number 3, the non-storage portion), I encountered a note recommending that I disable the storage section of the scope. It took me a while but I eventually found directions on how to do this. But these are kind of crude and I am not sure I did everything correctly:
1. Disconnect P3008 from the A12 Trigger Generator Sweep Logic board (see Figure 8-17) 2. Disconnect P483 from the A23 circuit board and connect a jumper between the two square-pin connectors on the board. I found this to be a bit confusing: is it asking to short the two pins of conector P483 with a jumper (which I did by soldering a piece of wire) or should I short more than one connector, and if so which one? 3. Move P307 (at the rear of A14 Vertical Mode Switch board) to the Test Mode position (see figure 8-15). But what is this Test Mode position? I am sure it is referenced somewhere in the 600 pages but after a couple hours of skimming through both volumes I can't seem to find it. There's no mention of a test mode connector on A14's schematic. The only thing I could see is this other connector, P206, that is sitting on top of P307. I switched 307 with 206 it but the scope wouldn't display anything and the fan was not turning anymore.
So I must have gone wrong somewhere and If anyone knows how to disable the storage unit, any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your patience with my lack of experience, I'm really enjoying this repair so far! Jerome.
|
Jerome,
Do you have another scope that you can use to trace signals with?
Why is the fan no running now? Did you blow-out a power supply line?
If I get sometime today, I'll try to dig into the books and give you some more suggestions.
I have 2 working 468's that I've repaired. Both had problems in the digital storage section. In one, it was bad EPROMs. In the other, it was the microprocessor's TTL clock oscillator. The 468 scope is neat scope. I use mine ocassionally to troubleshoot things like switching power supplies and other oscillator circuits running under about 5 MHz.
Jimmy
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Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@...> wrote:
So here's a new episode in my troubleshooting adventures. While following one of the diagrams (troubleshooting diagram number 3, the non-storage portion), I encountered a note recommending that I disable the storage section of the scope. It took me a while but I eventually found directions on how to do this. But these are kind of crude and I am not sure I did everything correctly:
1. Disconnect P3008 from the A12 Trigger Generator Sweep Logic board (see Figure 8-17) 2. Disconnect P483 from the A23 circuit board and connect a jumper between the two square-pin connectors on the board. I found this to be a bit confusing: is it asking to short the two pins of conector P483 with a jumper (which I did by soldering a piece of wire) or should I short more than one connector, and if so which one? 3. Move P307 (at the rear of A14 Vertical Mode Switch board) to the Test Mode position (see figure 8-15). But what is this Test Mode position? I am sure it is referenced somewhere in the 600 pages but after a couple hours of skimming through both volumes I can't seem to find it. There's no mention of a test mode connector on A14's schematic. The only thing I could see is this other connector, P206, that is sitting on top of P307. I switched 307 with 206 it but the scope wouldn't display anything and the fan was not turning anymore.
So I must have gone wrong somewhere and If anyone knows how to disable the storage unit, any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your patience with my lack of experience, I'm really enjoying this repair so far! Jerome.
|
Thank you Jimmy for your answer! I don't have another scope yet but am currently looking for a functional one on ebay (I'm eventually planning on getting a new digital one but that'll be another couple of months before I have saved enough money for it).
As for the fan, I think it had something to do with my attempt to disable the digital storage section (I had unplugged a couple connectors and switched one (P307 to P206 on the vertical mode switch board A14). I worked on it last night and everything is almost back to where it was when I received it. I say "almost" because I must have done something wrong to the vertical amp board when I removed it (to gain better access to A14) because now channel B is constantly displayed, and I notice that when I adjust the vert. position of one of channels it slightly affects the position of the other. Last but not least, still no trigger.
I am glad to hear from someone who's got experience with this marvelous scope! I am not sure what should be my next step: try to get the vertical section back to normal or focus on the triggering issue? I am reading the theory of operation at the moment and I am trying to understand how the two sections are linked together. I am thinking that (but please correct me if I'm wrong) the problem lies somewhere on the trigger board, or in the trigger pickoff of the vertical section. I am going to check all the voltages over again just to be sure, and also because it's pretty much the only thing I can do with a multimeter :) (as for shorts I wouldn't know where to begin to check for them). Then I'll wait until I find a cheap but decent scope to keep working on the 468. What do you think?
Thanks again for your input, I really appreciate it!
Jerome.
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--- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" wrote: > > Jerome, > > Do you have another scope that you can use to trace signals with? > > Why is the fan no running now? Did you blow-out a power supply line? > > If I get sometime today, I'll try to dig into the books and give you some more suggestions. > > I have 2 working 468's that I've repaired. Both had problems in the digital storage section. In one, it was bad EPROMs. In the other, it was the microprocessor's TTL clock oscillator. The 468 scope is neat scope. I use mine ocassionally to troubleshoot things like switching power supplies and other oscillator circuits running under about 5 MHz. > > Jimmy > > --- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" jerome.quelin@ wrote: > > > > > > > > So here's a new episode in my troubleshooting adventures. While following one of the diagrams (troubleshooting diagram number 3, the non-storage portion), I encountered a note recommending that I disable the storage section of the scope. It took me a while but I eventually found directions on how to do this. But these are kind of crude and I am not sure I did everything correctly: > > > > 1. Disconnect P3008 from the A12 Trigger Generator Sweep Logic board (see Figure 8-17) > > 2. Disconnect P483 from the A23 circuit board and connect a jumper between the two square-pin connectors on the board. I found this to be a bit confusing: is it asking to short the two pins of conector P483 with a jumper (which I did by soldering a piece of wire) or should I short more than one connector, and if so which one? > > 3. Move P307 (at the rear of A14 Vertical Mode Switch board) to the Test Mode position (see figure 8-15). But what is this Test Mode position? I am sure it is referenced somewhere in the 600 pages but after a couple hours of skimming through both volumes I can't seem to find it. There's no mention of a test mode connector on A14's schematic. The only thing I could see is this other connector, P206, that is sitting on top of P307. I switched 307 with 206 it but the scope wouldn't display anything and the fan was not turning anymore. > > > > So I must have gone wrong somewhere and If anyone knows how to disable the storage unit, any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your patience with my lack of experience, I'm really enjoying this repair so far! > > Jerome. >
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Jerome,
Have you tried triggering while in storage mode?
Jimmy
|
Yes I have but it won't trigger either. It looks like other than the triggering issue the storage mode is fully functioning (the markers seem to work, the various display modes, norm, enveloppe, avg, seem to behave normally). I didn't have much time to work on it today but I read the theory of operation some more and decided to start checking transistors. I checked Q119 (it's alright) whose emitter is used to generate the trigger signal for ch1. Would you recommend that I start checking every transistor on the triggering board?
PS: I "fixed" the problem with ch1 and 2 traces being always on, a problem I had created by mis-plugging a connector (P307)
Jerome.
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--- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" wrote: > > Jerome, > > Have you tried triggering while in storage mode? > > Jimmy >
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Jerome,
I'm thinking you're going to need?a scope to trace signals (unless you get really lucky with your DMM!!!).
For a free PC sound card based scope, try this one: .? Make up a simple cable that?plugs into your sound card's line or mic input on one end, and like a DMM probe tip (signal) and alligator clip (ground) on the other.? Then play with this?with like some?AA batteries, a 9-volt battery, AC adapter with an AC output, etc., etc.,?to get comfortable with this s/w.? I'm thinking all or most sound cards?have AC-coupled inputs, so DC sources may not shown an indication?when connected, except maybe a quick spike.? (I've never used this s/w?much, just with the internal mic in my laptop.)? Hopefully, 9 volts DC won't damage the average sound card's line or mic input. Maybe someone else in the group knows of a better free PC sound card scope.? I know there're others in the TekScope archives.
Once you get that going and understand approximate peak-to-peak signal levels, then start looking at what kind of signals you've got at pin 7 of U240 and U445 on the Trigger Gen. and Sweep Logic Board.? Sheet 6, A&B Tigger Generator.? It looks like?Q230A/B and Q430A/B have plenty of drive capability (assuming they are good), so the sound card's Line Input impedance shouldn't be a problem at these test points (44 and 41 respectively). Mainly concetration on U445, since that's for the A sweep.? The waveforms are just before the schematic.? Let us know if you do something like this, and we'll go from there.
If someone can think of something better for this situation, please feel free to chime in.
Oh, what part of the world are you located?? Maybe there's a group member nearby that could help you.
Jimmy
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--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" wrote: > > Yes I have but it won't trigger either. It looks like other than the > triggering issue the storage mode is fully functioning (the markers seem > to work, the various display modes, norm, enveloppe, avg, seem to behave > normally). I didn't have much time to work on it today but I read the > theory of operation some more and decided to start checking transistors. > I checked Q119 (it's alright) whose emitter is used to generate the > trigger signal for ch1. Would you recommend that I start checking every > transistor on the triggering board? > PS: I "fixed" the problem with ch1 and 2 traces being always on, a > problem I had created by mis-plugging a connector (P307) > > Jerome. > --- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" jtjewell83@ wrote: > > > > Jerome, > > > > Have you tried triggering while in storage mode? > > > > Jimmy > > >
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Hello Jimmy and everyone else,
I finally have some time to give you a little summary of what I did. I followed Jimmy's advice and put together a sound card oscilloscope probe (even did an attenuator circuit for voltages above 1V) and probed a few test points on the A12 trigger board. Sadly on pin 7 of U240 and U445 I cannot seem to get a signal that makes any sense (nothing that the sound card scope can trigger on) and this lackluster signal doesn't seem to be a result of my very precarious probe because I could detect and trigger quite nicely on the 1kHz calibrator signal with it. I did set up the scope according to the manual (ext. trigger on both trigger A and B, AC coupled, external triggers...) but I could not make sense of what I observed on these two pins.
I did make two new observations: 1. whenever I probed U445 the scope triggered briefly, just like when I twiddled the slope switch. It happened every time I made contact with my sound card probe and every time I removed the probe. 2. This is a grim discovery : it looks like a couple of the large electro caps (C926 and C935 by the looks of it) from the main power supply have been releasing their corrosive guts and left a black trail around them... this is not good as I think I can't easily replace these guys... (and removing the A15 interface board on which they dwell seems like quite a production!)
All in all I think the sound card scope option just isn't going to cut the mustard. I am going to put this project on the side for maybe a month or until I can finally get hold of a functioning scope. In the meantime I'm going to start giving this little guy a good cleaning and maybe work on replacing these electros if at all possible!
Thanks so much for all your willingness to help me with my meager experience and scarce test equipment (I know this kind of long distance troubleshooting can be very frustrating for those helping!).
Jerome.
PS: I am located in the USA, near Princeton, NJ.
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--- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" <jtjewell83@...> wrote:
Jerome,
I'm thinking you're going to need a scope to trace signals (unless you get really lucky with your DMM!!!).
For a free PC sound card based scope, try this one: <> . Make up a simple cable that plugs into your sound card's line or mic input on one end, and like a DMM probe tip (signal) and alligator clip (ground) on the other. Then play with this with like some AA batteries, a 9-volt battery, AC adapter with an AC output, etc., etc., to get comfortable with this s/w. I'm thinking all or most sound cards have AC-coupled inputs, so DC sources may not shown an indication when connected, except maybe a quick spike. (I've never used this s/w much, just with the internal mic in my laptop.) Hopefully, 9 volts DC won't damage the average sound card's line or mic input. Maybe someone else in the group knows of a better free PC sound card scope. I know there're others in the TekScope archives.
Once you get that going and understand approximate peak-to-peak signal levels, then start looking at what kind of signals you've got at pin 7 of U240 and U445 on the Trigger Gen. and Sweep Logic Board. Sheet 6, A&B Tigger Generator. It looks like Q230A/B and Q430A/B have plenty of drive capability (assuming they are good), so the sound card's Line Input impedance shouldn't be a problem at these test points (44 and 41 respectively). Mainly concetration on U445, since that's for the A sweep. The waveforms are just before the schematic. Let us know if you do something like this, and we'll go from there.
If someone can think of something better for this situation, please feel free to chime in.
Oh, what part of the world are you located? Maybe there's a group member nearby that could help you.
Jimmy
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@> wrote:
Yes I have but it won't trigger either. It looks like other than the triggering issue the storage mode is fully functioning (the markers seem
to work, the various display modes, norm, enveloppe, avg, seem to behave
normally). I didn't have much time to work on it today but I read the theory of operation some more and decided to start checking transistors.
I checked Q119 (it's alright) whose emitter is used to generate the trigger signal for ch1. Would you recommend that I start checking every
transistor on the triggering board? PS: I "fixed" the problem with ch1 and 2 traces being always on, a problem I had created by mis-plugging a connector (P307)
Jerome. --- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" jtjewell83@ wrote:
Jerome,
Have you tried triggering while in storage mode?
Jimmy
|
Jerome,
Did you apply the 1 kHz square wave to both Ext. Trigger inputs, like the manual says? If you did and you don't have a signal at pin 7 of each IC, I'd say you have a problem in one or more of the SOURCE or COUPLING switches (possible water damage maybe????). Oh, have you checked the +8 and -8 volt supplies at least at Q430A/R433 (+8V) and Q430B/R???-can't read schematic (-8V)?
Also, check the DC voltages around U445, if you haven't already. Some are on schematic (in the ovals).
I thought you had already check ripple on all the supplies, but I cannot remember for sure.
I had to replace the big electrolytic caps in one of my 468s. It's a job, but if done carefully, you'll get good results. Maybe about 8 hours total for me, including time spent to order the new caps. You do not have to remove the Interface Board to it, just the Trigger Board. Be carefull and try not to damage the pads/traces too much. And you'll need to add a few jumpers for the negative/can side of several of the caps. Plenty on that in the archives for 465, 475, 468. Make sure you get polarity right on each cap too!!! Post back if you're not sure about this.
Jimmy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@...> wrote:
Hello Jimmy and everyone else,
I finally have some time to give you a little summary of what I did. I followed Jimmy's advice and put together a sound card oscilloscope probe (even did an attenuator circuit for voltages above 1V) and probed a few test points on the A12 trigger board. Sadly on pin 7 of U240 and U445 I cannot seem to get a signal that makes any sense (nothing that the sound card scope can trigger on) and this lackluster signal doesn't seem to be a result of my very precarious probe because I could detect and trigger quite nicely on the 1kHz calibrator signal with it. I did set up the scope according to the manual (ext. trigger on both trigger A and B, AC coupled, external triggers...) but I could not make sense of what I observed on these two pins.
I did make two new observations: 1. whenever I probed U445 the scope triggered briefly, just like when I twiddled the slope switch. It happened every time I made contact with my sound card probe and every time I removed the probe. 2. This is a grim discovery : it looks like a couple of the large electro caps (C926 and C935 by the looks of it) from the main power supply have been releasing their corrosive guts and left a black trail around them... this is not good as I think I can't easily replace these guys... (and removing the A15 interface board on which they dwell seems like quite a production!)
All in all I think the sound card scope option just isn't going to cut the mustard. I am going to put this project on the side for maybe a month or until I can finally get hold of a functioning scope. In the meantime I'm going to start giving this little guy a good cleaning and maybe work on replacing these electros if at all possible!
Thanks so much for all your willingness to help me with my meager experience and scarce test equipment (I know this kind of long distance troubleshooting can be very frustrating for those helping!).
Jerome.
PS: I am located in the USA, near Princeton, NJ.
--- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" <jtjewell83@> wrote:
Jerome,
I'm thinking you're going to need a scope to trace signals (unless you get really lucky with your DMM!!!).
For a free PC sound card based scope, try this one: <> . Make up a simple cable that plugs into your sound card's line or mic input on one end, and like a DMM probe tip (signal) and alligator clip (ground) on the other. Then play with this with like some AA batteries, a 9-volt battery, AC adapter with an AC output, etc., etc., to get comfortable with this s/w. I'm thinking all or most sound cards have AC-coupled inputs, so DC sources may not shown an indication when connected, except maybe a quick spike. (I've never used this s/w much, just with the internal mic in my laptop.) Hopefully, 9 volts DC won't damage the average sound card's line or mic input. Maybe someone else in the group knows of a better free PC sound card scope. I know there're others in the TekScope archives.
Once you get that going and understand approximate peak-to-peak signal levels, then start looking at what kind of signals you've got at pin 7 of U240 and U445 on the Trigger Gen. and Sweep Logic Board. Sheet 6, A&B Tigger Generator. It looks like Q230A/B and Q430A/B have plenty of drive capability (assuming they are good), so the sound card's Line Input impedance shouldn't be a problem at these test points (44 and 41 respectively). Mainly concetration on U445, since that's for the A sweep. The waveforms are just before the schematic. Let us know if you do something like this, and we'll go from there.
If someone can think of something better for this situation, please feel free to chime in.
Oh, what part of the world are you located? Maybe there's a group member nearby that could help you.
Jimmy
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@> wrote:
Yes I have but it won't trigger either. It looks like other than the triggering issue the storage mode is fully functioning (the markers seem
to work, the various display modes, norm, enveloppe, avg, seem to behave
normally). I didn't have much time to work on it today but I read the theory of operation some more and decided to start checking transistors.
I checked Q119 (it's alright) whose emitter is used to generate the trigger signal for ch1. Would you recommend that I start checking every
transistor on the triggering board? PS: I "fixed" the problem with ch1 and 2 traces being always on, a problem I had created by mis-plugging a connector (P307)
Jerome. --- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" jtjewell83@ wrote:
Jerome,
Have you tried triggering while in storage mode?
Jimmy
|
Thanks Jimmy, I am always very excited to hear from you (and from everyone else of course!)
Since my rudimentary Global Specialties 2001 function generator seems to be quite out of spec (according to my Fluke 87 III, recently calibrated) I decided I'd apply the 1kHz signal from the calibrator (It's not 500mV as specified in the manual but I thought it might stille give me something). Maybe I can somehow try getting a 500 mV 1kHz square wave from my SG and try again? As for the voltages I did check them for ripple and they all appeared to be fine (I did that with my Fluke) but a second thorough check sure is in order now. I'll do this tonight as well as checking the DC voltages around U445. It looks like the trigger board is going to have to go and I'll give the coupling and source switches a good cleaning.
As for the replacement of the electros do you recommend I get a vacuum desoldering gun (of the like of the Hakko 808) or would my low tech solder pump and whick would do the trick on a multilayer board? Somewhow I doubt it. I have seen that Radio Shack sells a cheapo soldering iron/solderpump combo that might just do the trick. Maybe I can try with this?
I'm going to have a nice chunk of time this weekend for experiments so I'll follow closely all your recommendations as usual and will get back to you with some (hopefully) positive results this time. Thanks again for all your help, I'm having so much fun :)
Cheers everyone, Jerome.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" <jtjewell83@...> wrote: Jerome,
Did you apply the 1 kHz square wave to both Ext. Trigger inputs, like the manual says? If you did and you don't have a signal at pin 7 of each IC, I'd say you have a problem in one or more of the SOURCE or COUPLING switches (possible water damage maybe????). Oh, have you checked the +8 and -8 volt supplies at least at Q430A/R433 (+8V) and Q430B/R???-can't read schematic (-8V)?
Also, check the DC voltages around U445, if you haven't already. Some are on schematic (in the ovals).
I thought you had already check ripple on all the supplies, but I cannot remember for sure.
I had to replace the big electrolytic caps in one of my 468s. It's a job, but if done carefully, you'll get good results. Maybe about 8 hours total for me, including time spent to order the new caps. You do not have to remove the Interface Board to it, just the Trigger Board. Be carefull and try not to damage the pads/traces too much. And you'll need to add a few jumpers for the negative/can side of several of the caps. Plenty on that in the archives for 465, 475, 468. Make sure you get polarity right on each cap too!!! Post back if you're not sure about this.
Jimmy
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@> wrote:
Hello Jimmy and everyone else,
I finally have some time to give you a little summary of what I did. I followed Jimmy's advice and put together a sound card oscilloscope probe (even did an attenuator circuit for voltages above 1V) and probed a few test points on the A12 trigger board. Sadly on pin 7 of U240 and U445 I cannot seem to get a signal that makes any sense (nothing that the sound card scope can trigger on) and this lackluster signal doesn't seem to be a result of my very precarious probe because I could detect and trigger quite nicely on the 1kHz calibrator signal with it. I did set up the scope according to the manual (ext. trigger on both trigger A and B, AC coupled, external triggers...) but I could not make sense of what I observed on these two pins.
I did make two new observations: 1. whenever I probed U445 the scope triggered briefly, just like when I twiddled the slope switch. It happened every time I made contact with my sound card probe and every time I removed the probe. 2. This is a grim discovery : it looks like a couple of the large electro caps (C926 and C935 by the looks of it) from the main power supply have been releasing their corrosive guts and left a black trail around them... this is not good as I think I can't easily replace these guys... (and removing the A15 interface board on which they dwell seems like quite a production!)
All in all I think the sound card scope option just isn't going to cut the mustard. I am going to put this project on the side for maybe a month or until I can finally get hold of a functioning scope. In the meantime I'm going to start giving this little guy a good cleaning and maybe work on replacing these electros if at all possible!
Thanks so much for all your willingness to help me with my meager experience and scarce test equipment (I know this kind of long distance troubleshooting can be very frustrating for those helping!).
Jerome.
PS: I am located in the USA, near Princeton, NJ.
--- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" <jtjewell83@> wrote:
Jerome,
I'm thinking you're going to need a scope to trace signals (unless you get really lucky with your DMM!!!).
For a free PC sound card based scope, try this one: <> . Make up a simple cable that plugs into your sound card's line or mic input on one end, and like a DMM probe tip (signal) and alligator clip (ground) on the other. Then play with this with like some AA batteries, a 9-volt battery, AC adapter with an AC output, etc., etc., to get comfortable with this s/w. I'm thinking all or most sound cards have AC-coupled inputs, so DC sources may not shown an indication when connected, except maybe a quick spike. (I've never used this s/w much, just with the internal mic in my laptop.) Hopefully, 9 volts DC won't damage the average sound card's line or mic input. Maybe someone else in the group knows of a better free PC sound card scope. I know there're others in the TekScope archives.
Once you get that going and understand approximate peak-to-peak signal levels, then start looking at what kind of signals you've got at pin 7 of U240 and U445 on the Trigger Gen. and Sweep Logic Board. Sheet 6, A&B Tigger Generator. It looks like Q230A/B and Q430A/B have plenty of drive capability (assuming they are good), so the sound card's Line Input impedance shouldn't be a problem at these test points (44 and 41 respectively). Mainly concetration on U445, since that's for the A sweep. The waveforms are just before the schematic. Let us know if you do something like this, and we'll go from there.
If someone can think of something better for this situation, please feel free to chime in.
Oh, what part of the world are you located? Maybe there's a group member nearby that could help you.
Jimmy
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@> wrote:
Yes I have but it won't trigger either. It looks like other than the triggering issue the storage mode is fully functioning (the markers seem
to work, the various display modes, norm, enveloppe, avg, seem to behave
normally). I didn't have much time to work on it today but I read the theory of operation some more and decided to start checking transistors.
I checked Q119 (it's alright) whose emitter is used to generate the trigger signal for ch1. Would you recommend that I start checking every
transistor on the triggering board? PS: I "fixed" the problem with ch1 and 2 traces being always on, a problem I had created by mis-plugging a connector (P307)
Jerome. --- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" jtjewell83@ wrote:
Jerome,
Have you tried triggering while in storage mode?
Jimmy
|
Jerome,
One way to measure ripple on a DC supply line without a scope is to cap-couple into your Fluke with like a 1 uF or so cap. The cap blocks the DC from the meter, so the meter will only measure the ripple (AC) component. Just put the cap in series with the + meter lead. Observe polarity and remember to flip it for a negative supply (or just flip the meter leads and keep cap on + lead). Set the Fluke to AC volts. The 87 III reads true-RMS, not peak-to-peak. The cap's voltage rating should be higher than the voltage of the DC supply line that you're measuring!!! And be careful!!! Oh, you might want to slightly load the meter side with like a 1M ohm or so resistor so the cap's leakage current doesn't affect the readings. The meter should be about a 10M ohm load. Make a table of measured Vrms for all supplies, then convert to Vp-p (assume a sinewave). Someone in the group please chime in here if I'm advising Jerome incorrectly, or if I'm missing something. (It's been a long time since I've done this, since I have so many Tek scopes. LOL.)
The old Simpson 260 analog meters had a 0.1 uF cap (inside meter) at the meter's OUTPUT terminal. This terminal is mainly for measuring audio frequency levels on a DC bias, not 60 or 120 Hz ripple levels. But you can get relative measurements, even at 60 Hz. See the schematics and operator manuals at .
I'm no expert on replacing the large caps. I used solderwick and 2 soldering irons for my 468 repair job. 2 were bad/open, but I went on and replaced all 4 (or is it 5??) I do not have a vacumm desoldering iron. I just removed as much solder as possible with the wick, and heated 2 joints simultaneously then VERY gentley rocked/pushed the cap sideways a little, removed heat, repeated on other joints and in opposite direction, repeat, repeat, repeat, until it was removed. Not easy with just 2 hands - 2 people is better. I did lift a few of the doughnut pads, but if I remember correctly, they were the un-connected ones, so that really didn't matter. Remember, a few jumper's are needed, since the metal 3/4-terminal cans do that, but 2-leaded caps don't. I don't think any desoldering iron that Radio Shack sells will have a tip with a large enough hole, but I'm not sure on that. I took some before and after pics. Maybe I'll post them, but they're others in the photos section of Tek Scopes.
If you get back to troubleshooting the trigger circuit, don't worry so much about the signal level. I beleive the 468's calibrator is 300 mVp-p, not 500. You're mainly looking for some kind of a signal at the pin 7s.
Glad to help and hang in there, Jimmy
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@...> wrote:
Thanks Jimmy, I am always very excited to hear from you (and from everyone else of course!)
Since my rudimentary Global Specialties 2001 function generator seems to be quite out of spec (according to my Fluke 87 III, recently calibrated) I decided I'd apply the 1kHz signal from the calibrator (It's not 500mV as specified in the manual but I thought it might stille give me something). Maybe I can somehow try getting a 500 mV 1kHz square wave from my SG and try again? As for the voltages I did check them for ripple and they all appeared to be fine (I did that with my Fluke) but a second thorough check sure is in order now. I'll do this tonight as well as checking the DC voltages around U445. It looks like the trigger board is going to have to go and I'll give the coupling and source switches a good cleaning.
As for the replacement of the electros do you recommend I get a vacuum desoldering gun (of the like of the Hakko 808) or would my low tech solder pump and whick would do the trick on a multilayer board? Somewhow I doubt it. I have seen that Radio Shack sells a cheapo soldering iron/solderpump combo that might just do the trick. Maybe I can try with this?
I'm going to have a nice chunk of time this weekend for experiments so I'll follow closely all your recommendations as usual and will get back to you with some (hopefully) positive results this time. Thanks again for all your help, I'm having so much fun :)
Cheers everyone, Jerome.
--- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" <jtjewell83@> wrote:
Jerome,
Did you apply the 1 kHz square wave to both Ext. Trigger inputs, like the manual says? If you did and you don't have a signal at pin 7 of each IC, I'd say you have a problem in one or more of the SOURCE or COUPLING switches (possible water damage maybe????). Oh, have you checked the +8 and -8 volt supplies at least at Q430A/R433 (+8V) and Q430B/R???-can't read schematic (-8V)?
Also, check the DC voltages around U445, if you haven't already. Some are on schematic (in the ovals).
I thought you had already check ripple on all the supplies, but I cannot remember for sure.
I had to replace the big electrolytic caps in one of my 468s. It's a job, but if done carefully, you'll get good results. Maybe about 8 hours total for me, including time spent to order the new caps. You do not have to remove the Interface Board to it, just the Trigger Board. Be carefull and try not to damage the pads/traces too much. And you'll need to add a few jumpers for the negative/can side of several of the caps. Plenty on that in the archives for 465, 475, 468. Make sure you get polarity right on each cap too!!! Post back if you're not sure about this.
Jimmy
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@> wrote:
Hello Jimmy and everyone else,
I finally have some time to give you a little summary of what I did. I followed Jimmy's advice and put together a sound card oscilloscope probe (even did an attenuator circuit for voltages above 1V) and probed a few test points on the A12 trigger board. Sadly on pin 7 of U240 and U445 I cannot seem to get a signal that makes any sense (nothing that the sound card scope can trigger on) and this lackluster signal doesn't seem to be a result of my very precarious probe because I could detect and trigger quite nicely on the 1kHz calibrator signal with it. I did set up the scope according to the manual (ext. trigger on both trigger A and B, AC coupled, external triggers...) but I could not make sense of what I observed on these two pins.
I did make two new observations: 1. whenever I probed U445 the scope triggered briefly, just like when I twiddled the slope switch. It happened every time I made contact with my sound card probe and every time I removed the probe. 2. This is a grim discovery : it looks like a couple of the large electro caps (C926 and C935 by the looks of it) from the main power supply have been releasing their corrosive guts and left a black trail around them... this is not good as I think I can't easily replace these guys... (and removing the A15 interface board on which they dwell seems like quite a production!)
All in all I think the sound card scope option just isn't going to cut the mustard. I am going to put this project on the side for maybe a month or until I can finally get hold of a functioning scope. In the meantime I'm going to start giving this little guy a good cleaning and maybe work on replacing these electros if at all possible!
Thanks so much for all your willingness to help me with my meager experience and scarce test equipment (I know this kind of long distance troubleshooting can be very frustrating for those helping!).
Jerome.
PS: I am located in the USA, near Princeton, NJ.
--- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" <jtjewell83@> wrote:
Jerome,
I'm thinking you're going to need a scope to trace signals (unless you get really lucky with your DMM!!!).
For a free PC sound card based scope, try this one: <> . Make up a simple cable that plugs into your sound card's line or mic input on one end, and like a DMM probe tip (signal) and alligator clip (ground) on the other. Then play with this with like some AA batteries, a 9-volt battery, AC adapter with an AC output, etc., etc., to get comfortable with this s/w. I'm thinking all or most sound cards have AC-coupled inputs, so DC sources may not shown an indication when connected, except maybe a quick spike. (I've never used this s/w much, just with the internal mic in my laptop.) Hopefully, 9 volts DC won't damage the average sound card's line or mic input. Maybe someone else in the group knows of a better free PC sound card scope. I know there're others in the TekScope archives.
Once you get that going and understand approximate peak-to-peak signal levels, then start looking at what kind of signals you've got at pin 7 of U240 and U445 on the Trigger Gen. and Sweep Logic Board. Sheet 6, A&B Tigger Generator. It looks like Q230A/B and Q430A/B have plenty of drive capability (assuming they are good), so the sound card's Line Input impedance shouldn't be a problem at these test points (44 and 41 respectively). Mainly concetration on U445, since that's for the A sweep. The waveforms are just before the schematic. Let us know if you do something like this, and we'll go from there.
If someone can think of something better for this situation, please feel free to chime in.
Oh, what part of the world are you located? Maybe there's a group member nearby that could help you.
Jimmy
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" <jerome.quelin@> wrote:
Yes I have but it won't trigger either. It looks like other than the triggering issue the storage mode is fully functioning (the markers seem
to work, the various display modes, norm, enveloppe, avg, seem to behave
normally). I didn't have much time to work on it today but I read the theory of operation some more and decided to start checking transistors.
I checked Q119 (it's alright) whose emitter is used to generate the trigger signal for ch1. Would you recommend that I start checking every
transistor on the triggering board? PS: I "fixed" the problem with ch1 and 2 traces being always on, a problem I had created by mis-plugging a connector (P307)
Jerome. --- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" jtjewell83@ wrote:
Jerome,
Have you tried triggering while in storage mode?
Jimmy
|
Hi everyone.
I haven't had much time this week to work on my trigger issues but ?I have been doing various DC measurements and have found some serious discrepancies that I had not noticed before. First of all on the trigger assembly (A12) I have been probing mostly around U445 and found the following: - the +8V and -8V rails for U445 sit respectively at +9V and -7.71V
- pin 7, trigger input #5, (which should be at 0V) is at -7.25
- voltage between pins 10 and 11 (which should be +1V) read 0V
- pin 8, slope select, (which should be -1.8V) is at -1.7V
I did wiggle the caps a bit (that probably wasn't too smart) and when I turned my scope off and back on nothing came up on the screen and all LEDs on the front panel were out. I rechecked all the main power supply voltages (once again just the DC component) and sure enough the +5V rail now sits at 0.694V... (all the others are within tolerance) Looking at the schematic, the 5V rail is?dependent?on one of the 5000uF caps that I "inspected" (C935). My "magic" touch may have killed it...
So it looks like right now my biggest priority is to bring the various power rails back to their original vigor (or is it?), which leads me to my next and possibly final question for now. I went ahead and removed the trigger board to gain better access to the leaky capacitors and inspected the damages up close. It looks like at least 3 of them are dead (I do not have an ESR meter but the blackened goo under seems to indicate leakage) and I hope the electrolytes have not corroded the traces. I have done some research and if I want to replace these with good quality caps (Cornell Dublier) it'll cost me $20 to $30 per cap (which could bring me to $150 if I wanted to replace all 5, to be safe). Now that's quite an investment for a scope I paid $80 and while I am determined to go through with this repair, if I cannot find a cheaper source for equivalently speced electrolytics I'm going to have to put this project on stand by. I only searched on the usual sites (mouser, digikey) and on the Cornell Dublier website, but has anyone got a good recommendation for me?
Thanks in advance for the precious insight. Jerome.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" wrote: > > Jerome, > > One way to measure ripple on a DC supply line without a scope is to cap-couple into your Fluke with like a 1 uF or so cap. The cap blocks the DC from the meter, so the meter will only measure the ripple (AC) component. Just put the cap in series with the + meter lead. Observe polarity and remember to flip it for a negative supply (or just flip the meter leads and keep cap on + lead). Set the Fluke to AC volts. The 87 III reads true-RMS, not peak-to-peak. The cap's voltage rating should be higher than the voltage of the DC supply line that you're measuring!!! And be careful!!! Oh, you might want to slightly load the meter side with like a 1M ohm or so resistor so the cap's leakage current doesn't affect the readings. The meter should be about a 10M ohm load. Make a table of measured Vrms for all supplies, then convert to Vp-p (assume a sinewave). Someone in the group please chime in here if I'm advising Jerome incorrectly, or if I'm missing something. (It's been a long time since I've done this, since I have so many Tek scopes. LOL.) > > The old Simpson 260 analog meters had a 0.1 uF cap (inside meter) at the meter's OUTPUT terminal. This terminal is mainly for measuring audio frequency levels on a DC bias, not 60 or 120 Hz ripple levels. But you can get relative measurements, even at 60 Hz. See the schematics and operator manuals at http://www.simpson260.com/downloads/downloads.htm. > > I'm no expert on replacing the large caps. I used solderwick and 2 soldering irons for my 468 repair job. 2 were bad/open, but I went on and replaced all 4 (or is it 5??) I do not have a vacumm desoldering iron. I just removed as much solder as possible with the wick, and heated 2 joints simultaneously then VERY gentley rocked/pushed the cap sideways a little, removed heat, repeated on other joints and in opposite direction, repeat, repeat, repeat, until it was removed. Not easy with just 2 hands - 2 people is better. I did lift a few of the doughnut pads, but if I remember correctly, they were the un-connected ones, so that really didn't matter. Remember, a few jumper's are needed, since the metal 3/4-terminal cans do that, but 2-leaded caps don't. I don't think any desoldering iron that Radio Shack sells will have a tip with a large enough hole, but I'm not sure on that. I took some before and after pics. Maybe I'll post them, but they're others in the photos section of Tek Scopes. > > If you get back to troubleshooting the trigger circuit, don't worry so much about the signal level. I beleive the 468's calibrator is 300 mVp-p, not 500. You're mainly looking for some kind of a signal at the pin 7s. > > Glad to help and hang in there, > Jimmy > > --- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" jerome.quelin@ wrote: > > > > > > > > > > Thanks Jimmy, I am always very excited to hear from you (and from everyone else of course!) > > > > Since my rudimentary Global Specialties 2001 function generator seems to be quite out of spec (according to my Fluke 87 III, recently calibrated) I decided I'd apply the 1kHz signal from the calibrator (It's not 500mV as specified in the manual but I thought it might stille give me something). Maybe I can somehow try getting a 500 mV 1kHz square wave from my SG and try again? As for the voltages I did check them for ripple and they all appeared to be fine (I did that with my Fluke) but a second thorough check sure is in order now. I'll do this tonight as well as checking the DC voltages around U445. It looks like the trigger board is going to have to go and I'll give the coupling and source switches a good cleaning. > > > > As for the replacement of the electros do you recommend I get a vacuum desoldering gun (of the like of the Hakko 808) or would my low tech solder pump and whick would do the trick on a multilayer board? Somewhow I doubt it. I have seen that Radio Shack sells a cheapo soldering iron/solderpump combo that might just do the trick. Maybe I can try with this? > > > > I'm going to have a nice chunk of time this weekend for experiments so I'll follow closely all your recommendations as usual and will get back to you with some (hopefully) positive results this time. Thanks again for all your help, I'm having so much fun :) > > > > Cheers everyone, > > Jerome. > > > > --- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" wrote: > > > > > > Jerome, > > > > > > Did you apply the 1 kHz square wave to both Ext. Trigger inputs, like the manual says? If you did and you don't have a signal at pin 7 of each IC, I'd say you have a problem in one or more of the SOURCE or COUPLING switches (possible water damage maybe????). Oh, have you checked the +8 and -8 volt supplies at least at Q430A/R433 (+8V) and Q430B/R???-can't read schematic (-8V)? > > > > > > Also, check the DC voltages around U445, if you haven't already. Some are on schematic (in the ovals). > > > > > > I thought you had already check ripple on all the supplies, but I cannot remember for sure. > > > > > > I had to replace the big electrolytic caps in one of my 468s. It's a job, but if done carefully, you'll get good results. Maybe about 8 hours total for me, including time spent to order the new caps. You do not have to remove the Interface Board to it, just the Trigger Board. Be carefull and try not to damage the pads/traces too much. And you'll need to add a few jumpers for the negative/can side of several of the caps. Plenty on that in the archives for 465, 475, 468. Make sure you get polarity right on each cap too!!! Post back if you're not sure about this. > > > > > > Jimmy > > > > > > --- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hello Jimmy and everyone else, > > > > > > > > I finally have some time to give you a little summary of what I did. I followed Jimmy's advice and put together a sound card oscilloscope probe (even did an attenuator circuit for voltages above 1V) and probed a few test points on the A12 trigger board. Sadly on pin 7 of U240 and U445 I cannot seem to get a signal that makes any sense (nothing that the sound card scope can trigger on) and this lackluster signal doesn't seem to be a result of my very precarious probe because I could detect and trigger quite nicely on the 1kHz calibrator signal with it. I did set up the scope according to the manual (ext. trigger on both trigger A and B, AC coupled, external triggers...) but I could not make sense of what I observed on these two pins. > > > > > > > > I did make two new observations: > > > > 1. whenever I probed U445 the scope triggered briefly, just like when I twiddled the slope switch. It happened every time I made contact with my sound card probe and every time I removed the probe. > > > > 2. This is a grim discovery : it looks like a couple of the large electro caps (C926 and C935 by the looks of it) from the main power supply have been releasing their corrosive guts and left a black trail around them... this is not good as I think I can't easily replace these guys... (and removing the A15 interface board on which they dwell seems like quite a production!) > > > > > > > > All in all I think the sound card scope option just isn't going to cut the mustard. I am going to put this project on the side for maybe a month or until I can finally get hold of a functioning scope. In the meantime I'm going to start giving this little guy a good cleaning and maybe work on replacing these electros if at all possible! > > > > > > > > Thanks so much for all your willingness to help me with my meager experience and scarce test equipment (I know this kind of long distance troubleshooting can be very frustrating for those helping!). > > > > > > > > Jerome. > > > > > > > > PS: I am located in the USA, near Princeton, NJ. > > > > > > > > --- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Jerome, > > > > > > > > > > I'm thinking you're going to need a scope to trace signals (unless you > > > > > get really lucky with your DMM!!!). > > > > > > > > > > For a free PC sound card based scope, try this one: > > > > > http://www.sillanumsoft.org/ . Make up a > > > > > simple cable that plugs into your sound card's line or mic input on one > > > > > end, and like a DMM probe tip (signal) and alligator clip (ground) on > > > > > the other. Then play with this with like some AA batteries, a 9-volt > > > > > battery, AC adapter with an AC output, etc., etc., to get comfortable > > > > > with this s/w. I'm thinking all or most sound cards have AC-coupled > > > > > inputs, so DC sources may not shown an indication when connected, except > > > > > maybe a quick spike. (I've never used this s/w much, just with the > > > > > internal mic in my laptop.) Hopefully, 9 volts DC won't damage the > > > > > average sound card's line or mic input. Maybe someone else in the group > > > > > knows of a better free PC sound card scope. I know there're others in > > > > > the TekScope archives. > > > > > > > > > > Once you get that going and understand approximate peak-to-peak signal > > > > > levels, then start looking at what kind of signals you've got at pin 7 > > > > > of U240 and U445 on the Trigger Gen. and Sweep Logic Board. Sheet 6, > > > > > A&B Tigger Generator. It looks like Q230A/B and Q430A/B have plenty of > > > > > drive capability (assuming they are good), so the sound card's Line > > > > > Input impedance shouldn't be a problem at these test points (44 and 41 > > > > > respectively). Mainly concetration on U445, since that's for the A > > > > > sweep. The waveforms are just before the schematic. Let us know if you > > > > > do something like this, and we'll go from there. > > > > > > > > > > If someone can think of something better for this situation, please feel > > > > > free to chime in. > > > > > > > > > > Oh, what part of the world are you located? Maybe there's a group > > > > > member nearby that could help you. > > > > > > > > > > Jimmy > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin" > > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Yes I have but it won't trigger either. It looks like other than the > > > > > > triggering issue the storage mode is fully functioning (the markers > > > > > seem > > > > > > to work, the various display modes, norm, enveloppe, avg, seem to > > > > > behave > > > > > > normally). I didn't have much time to work on it today but I read the > > > > > > theory of operation some more and decided to start checking > > > > > transistors. > > > > > > I checked Q119 (it's alright) whose emitter is used to generate the > > > > > > trigger signal for ch1. Would you recommend that I start checking > > > > > every > > > > > > transistor on the triggering board? > > > > > > PS: I "fixed" the problem with ch1 and 2 traces being always on, a > > > > > > problem I had created by mis-plugging a connector (P307) > > > > > > > > > > > > Jerome. > > > > > > --- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" jtjewell83@ wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Jerome, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Have you tried triggering while in storage mode? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Jimmy > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
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Sorry if this is a double post, I don't think my previous message went through.
Hi everyone.
I haven't had much time this week to work on my trigger issues but I have been doing various DC measurements and have found some serious discrepancies that I had not noticed before. First of all on the trigger assembly (A12) I have been probing mostly around U445 and found the following: the +8V and -8V rails for U445 sit respectively at +9V and -7.71V pin 7, trigger input #5, (which should be at 0V) is at -7.25 voltage between pins 10 and 11 (which should be +1V) read 0V pin 8, slope select, (which should be -1.8V) is at -1.7V I did wiggle the caps a bit (that probably wasn't too smart) and when I turned my scope off and back on nothing came up on the screen and all LEDs on the front panel were out. I rechecked all the main power supply voltages (once again just the DC component) and sure enough the +5V rail now sits at 0.694V... (all the others are within tolerance) Looking at the schematic, the 5V rail is dependent on one of the 5000uF caps that I "inspected" (C935). My "magic" touch may have killed it...
So it looks like right now my biggest priority is to bring the various power rails back to their original vigor (or is it?), which leads me to my next and possibly final question for now. I went ahead and removed the trigger board to gain better access to the leaky capacitors and inspected the damages up close. It looks like at least 3 of them are dead (I do not have an ESR meter but the blackened goo under seems to indicate leakage) and I hope the electrolytes have not corroded the traces. I have done some research and if I want to replace these with good quality caps (Cornell Dublier) it'll cost me $20 to $30 per cap (which could bring me to $150 if I wanted to replace all 5, to be safe). Now that's quite an investment for a scope I paid $80 and while I am determined to go through with this repair, if I cannot find a cheaper source for equivalently speced electrolytics I'm going to have to put this project on stand by. I only searched on the usual sites (mouser, digikey) and on the Cornell Dublier website, but has anyone got a good recommendation for me?
Thanks in advance for the precious insight. Jerome.
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I would just use standard radial lead electrolytics that run less then $5
each, even for the 105 ¡ãC versions. The modern day caps are for the most part
smaller and have better specs than the original cans Tek used back in the
day.
?
But by all means, get the 5 volts working. And clean up the stuff that
leaked out of the caps as it will make things worse as time goes on.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2012 10:25
PM
Subject: [TekScopes] Re: 468 triggering
issue
?
Hi everyone.
I haven't had much time this week to work on my trigger issues but
?I have been doing various DC measurements and have found some serious
discrepancies that I had not noticed before. First of all on the trigger
assembly (A12) I have been probing mostly around U445 and found the
following:
- the +8V and -8V rails for U445 sit respectively at +9V and -7.71V
- pin 7, trigger input #5, (which should be at 0V) is at -7.25
- voltage between pins 10 and 11 (which should be +1V) read 0V
- pin 8, slope select, (which should be -1.8V) is at -1.7V
I did
wiggle the caps a bit (that probably wasn't too smart) and when I turned my
scope off and back on nothing came up on the screen and all LEDs on the front
panel were out. I rechecked all the main power supply voltages (once again
just the DC component) and sure enough the +5V rail now sits at 0.694V... (all
the others are within tolerance) Looking at the schematic, the 5V rail
is?dependent?on one of the 5000uF caps that I "inspected" (C935). My
"magic" touch may have killed it...
So it looks like right now my biggest priority is to bring the various
power rails back to their original vigor (or is it?), which leads me to my
next and possibly final question for now. I went ahead and removed the trigger
board to gain better access to the leaky capacitors and inspected the damages
up close. It looks like at least 3 of them are dead (I do not have an ESR
meter but the blackened goo under seems to indicate leakage) and I hope the
electrolytes have not corroded the traces. I have done some research and if I
want to replace these with good quality caps (Cornell Dublier) it'll cost me
$20 to $30 per cap (which could bring me to $150 if I wanted to replace all 5,
to be safe). Now that's quite an investment for a scope I paid $80 and while I
am determined to go through with this repair, if I cannot find a cheaper
source for equivalently speced electrolytics I'm going to have to put this
project on stand by. I only searched on the usual sites (mouser, digikey) and
on the Cornell Dublier website, but has anyone got a good recommendation for
me?
Thanks in advance for the precious insight.
Jerome. --- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83"
wrote: > > Jerome, > > One way
to measure ripple on a DC supply line without a scope is to cap-couple into
your Fluke with like a 1 uF or so cap. The cap blocks the DC from the meter,
so the meter will only measure the ripple (AC) component. Just put the cap in
series with the + meter lead. Observe polarity and remember to flip it for a
negative supply (or just flip the meter leads and keep cap on + lead). Set the
Fluke to AC volts. The 87 III reads true-RMS, not peak-to-peak. The cap's
voltage rating should be higher than the voltage of the DC supply line that
you're measuring!!! And be careful!!! Oh, you might want to slightly load the
meter side with like a 1M ohm or so resistor so the cap's leakage current
doesn't affect the readings. The meter should be about a 10M ohm load. Make a
table of measured Vrms for all supplies, then convert to Vp-p (assume a
sinewave). Someone in the group please chime in here if I'm advising Jerome
incorrectly, or if I'm missing something. (It's been a long time since I've
done this, since I have so many Tek scopes. LOL.) > > The old
Simpson 260 analog meters had a 0.1 uF cap (inside meter) at the meter's
OUTPUT terminal. This terminal is mainly for measuring audio frequency levels
on a DC bias, not 60 or 120 Hz ripple levels. But you can get relative
measurements, even at 60 Hz. See the schematics and operator manuals at
http://www.simpson260.com/downloads/downloads.htm. > > I'm no
expert on replacing the large caps. I used solderwick and 2 soldering irons
for my 468 repair job. 2 were bad/open, but I went on and replaced all 4 (or
is it 5??) I do not have a vacumm desoldering iron. I just removed as much
solder as possible with the wick, and heated 2 joints simultaneously then VERY
gentley rocked/pushed the cap sideways a little, removed heat, repeated on
other joints and in opposite direction, repeat, repeat, repeat, until it was
removed. Not easy with just 2 hands - 2 people is better. I did lift a few of
the doughnut pads, but if I remember correctly, they were the un-connected
ones, so that really didn't matter. Remember, a few jumper's are needed, since
the metal 3/4-terminal cans do that, but 2-leaded caps don't. I don't think
any desoldering iron that Radio Shack sells will have a tip with a large
enough hole, but I'm not sure on that. I took some before and after pics.
Maybe I'll post them, but they're others in the photos section of Tek
Scopes. > > If you get back to troubleshooting the trigger
circuit, don't worry so much about the signal level. I beleive the 468's
calibrator is 300 mVp-p, not 500. You're mainly looking for some kind of a
signal at the pin 7s. > > Glad to help and hang in there, >
Jimmy > > --- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin"
jerome.quelin@ wrote: > > > > > > > >
> > Thanks Jimmy, I am always very excited to hear from you (and
from everyone else of course!) > > > > Since my rudimentary
Global Specialties 2001 function generator seems to be quite out of spec
(according to my Fluke 87 III, recently calibrated) I decided I'd apply the
1kHz signal from the calibrator (It's not 500mV as specified in the manual but
I thought it might stille give me something). Maybe I can somehow try getting
a 500 mV 1kHz square wave from my SG and try again? As for the voltages I did
check them for ripple and they all appeared to be fine (I did that with my
Fluke) but a second thorough check sure is in order now. I'll do this tonight
as well as checking the DC voltages around U445. It looks like the trigger
board is going to have to go and I'll give the coupling and source switches a
good cleaning. > > > > As for the replacement of the
electros do you recommend I get a vacuum desoldering gun (of the like of the
Hakko 808) or would my low tech solder pump and whick would do the trick on a
multilayer board? Somewhow I doubt it. I have seen that Radio Shack sells a
cheapo soldering iron/solderpump combo that might just do the trick. Maybe I
can try with this? > > > > I'm going to have a nice chunk
of time this weekend for experiments so I'll follow closely all your
recommendations as usual and will get back to you with some (hopefully)
positive results this time. Thanks again for all your help, I'm having so much
fun :) > > > > Cheers everyone, > >
Jerome. > > > > --- In TekScopes@...,
"jtjewell83" wrote: > > > > > >
Jerome, > > > > > > Did you apply the 1 kHz square
wave to both Ext. Trigger inputs, like the manual says? If you did and you
don't have a signal at pin 7 of each IC, I'd say you have a problem in one or
more of the SOURCE or COUPLING switches (possible water damage maybe????). Oh,
have you checked the +8 and -8 volt supplies at least at Q430A/R433 (+8V) and
Q430B/R???-can't read schematic (-8V)? > > > > > >
Also, check the DC voltages around U445, if you haven't already. Some are on
schematic (in the ovals). > > > > > > I thought you
had already check ripple on all the supplies, but I cannot remember for
sure. > > > > > > I had to replace the big
electrolytic caps in one of my 468s. It's a job, but if done carefully, you'll
get good results. Maybe about 8 hours total for me, including time spent to
order the new caps. You do not have to remove the Interface Board to it, just
the Trigger Board. Be carefull and try not to damage the pads/traces too much.
And you'll need to add a few jumpers for the negative/can side of several of
the caps. Plenty on that in the archives for 465, 475, 468. Make sure you get
polarity right on each cap too!!! Post back if you're not sure about
this. > > > > > > Jimmy > > > >
> > --- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin"
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Hello Jimmy and everyone
else, > > > > > > > > I finally have some time
to give you a little summary of what I did. I followed Jimmy's advice and put
together a sound card oscilloscope probe (even did an attenuator circuit for
voltages above 1V) and probed a few test points on the A12 trigger board.
Sadly on pin 7 of U240 and U445 I cannot seem to get a signal that makes any
sense (nothing that the sound card scope can trigger on) and this lackluster
signal doesn't seem to be a result of my very precarious probe because I could
detect and trigger quite nicely on the 1kHz calibrator signal with it. I did
set up the scope according to the manual (ext. trigger on both trigger A and
B, AC coupled, external triggers...) but I could not make sense of what I
observed on these two pins. > > > > > > > > I
did make two new observations: > > > > 1. whenever I probed
U445 the scope triggered briefly, just like when I twiddled the slope switch.
It happened every time I made contact with my sound card probe and every time
I removed the probe. > > > > 2. This is a grim discovery : it
looks like a couple of the large electro caps (C926 and C935 by the looks of
it) from the main power supply have been releasing their corrosive guts and
left a black trail around them... this is not good as I think I can't easily
replace these guys... (and removing the A15 interface board on which they
dwell seems like quite a production!) > > > > > >
> > All in all I think the sound card scope option just isn't going to
cut the mustard. I am going to put this project on the side for maybe a month
or until I can finally get hold of a functioning scope. In the meantime I'm
going to start giving this little guy a good cleaning and maybe work on
replacing these electros if at all possible! > > > > >
> > > Thanks so much for all your willingness to help me with my
meager experience and scarce test equipment (I know this kind of long distance
troubleshooting can be very frustrating for those helping!). > > >
> > > > > Jerome. > > > > > > >
> PS: I am located in the USA, near Princeton, NJ. > > > >
> > > > --- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83"
wrote: > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > Jerome, > > > > > >
> > > > I'm thinking you're going to need a scope to trace signals
(unless you > > > > > get really lucky with your
DMM!!!). > > > > > > > > > > For a free
PC sound card based scope, try this one: > > > > >
http://www.sillanumsoft.org/ . Make up
a > > > > > simple cable that plugs into your sound card's
line or mic input on one > > > > > end, and like a DMM probe
tip (signal) and alligator clip (ground) on > > > > > the
other. Then play with this with like some AA batteries, a 9-volt > >
> > > battery, AC adapter with an AC output, etc., etc., to get
comfortable > > > > > with this s/w. I'm thinking all or
most sound cards have AC-coupled > > > > > inputs, so DC
sources may not shown an indication when connected, except > > >
> > maybe a quick spike. (I've never used this s/w much, just with
the > > > > > internal mic in my laptop.) Hopefully, 9 volts
DC won't damage the > > > > > average sound card's line or
mic input. Maybe someone else in the group > > > > > knows
of a better free PC sound card scope. I know there're others in > >
> > > the TekScope archives. > > > > > >
> > > > Once you get that going and understand approximate
peak-to-peak signal > > > > > levels, then start looking at
what kind of signals you've got at pin 7 > > > > > of U240
and U445 on the Trigger Gen. and Sweep Logic Board. Sheet 6, > > >
> > A&B Tigger Generator. It looks like Q230A/B and Q430A/B have
plenty of > > > > > drive capability (assuming they are
good), so the sound card's Line > > > > > Input impedance
shouldn't be a problem at these test points (44 and 41 > > > >
> respectively). Mainly concetration on U445, since that's for the
A > > > > > sweep. The waveforms are just before the
schematic. Let us know if you > > > > > do something like
this, and we'll go from there. > > > > > > > >
> > If someone can think of something better for this situation, please
feel > > > > > free to chime in. > > > > >
> > > > > Oh, what part of the world are you located? Maybe
there's a group > > > > > member nearby that could help
you. > > > > > > > > > > Jimmy >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
--- In TekScopes@..., "jeromequelin"
> > > > > wrote: > > >
> > > > > > > > > Yes I have but it won't
trigger either. It looks like other than the > > > > > >
triggering issue the storage mode is fully functioning (the markers >
> > > > seem > > > > > > to work, the various
display modes, norm, enveloppe, avg, seem to > > > > >
behave > > > > > > normally). I didn't have much time to
work on it today but I read the > > > > > > theory of
operation some more and decided to start checking > > > > >
transistors. > > > > > > I checked Q119 (it's alright)
whose emitter is used to generate the > > > > > > trigger
signal for ch1. Would you recommend that I start checking > > >
> > every > > > > > > transistor on the triggering
board? > > > > > > PS: I "fixed" the problem with ch1 and
2 traces being always on, a > > > > > > problem I had
created by mis-plugging a connector (P307) > > > > >
> > > > > > > Jerome. > > > > > >
--- In TekScopes@..., "jtjewell83" jtjewell83@ wrote: > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Jerome, >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > Have you
tried triggering while in storage mode? > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Jimmy > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
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