开云体育

That is what it really takes!

Good luck

Reed Dickinson

At the last hamfest I obtained a 465B at a good price. On checkout, I find that channel 2 variable vertical attenuator does not go into cal detent. The coupler from the shaft to the pot is broken. It appears that it is major disassembly to get to the coupler. Is there a trick to getting to this coupler easily? What I see is partial disassembly of the front panel, removal of a lot of connectors then remove the board with the attenuators attached.

Is this what it really takes?

Thanks for any advice.

73
Glenn
WB4UIV

Hi..I also have broken coupler problem....I understand the 'ears' break on the outer shaft. I did what you are thinking about doing...panel etc. and then found there is one screw preventing simple removal of the screen covering the knob-to-shaft joining area.screen (in my case Channel 'A'. A person who strips them for sale advises me, recently, that you take out the entire vertical section...that is both channels... by removing just 3 screws. It's a while since I tried the initial solution and will soon try this one...however obviously the knobs have to come off. I'll try it soon.

When I pulled the CRO considerably down to try to get to the hidden screw a part fell out...a curved piece of metal which I suppose one could call 'springy'. Whence I have no idea but I suspect it connects chassis to cover for earthing...Any one who knows please advise...Anyone with one to spare please let me know...I have no idea where I safely put it 3 years ago!!


Jack

Later ....It actually pulls down quite easily....but be very careful...there are two shirt wires towards the end of the CRT....They go to 2 spigots on the vertical
and under the shielded wound up cable. The spigots bend quite reaadily. I did a very tidy job of lengthening(5 inches) the wires enough that with the spaghetti on
them they would still curl enough to not pull the sockets off the spigots. The extra wire should be soldered into the hollow pieces (sockets)that go over the CRT spigots...

None of this is rip tear and bust....be very careful at the outset when pulling the vertical amp board...there are other connections.

I need a low mileage vertical amp board complete with all switches for my Mil 425....can anyone assist there? and that spring metal .......(?)

If anyone has to pull that board and is a bit anxious, I'll give complete detail.....I was anxious...not now....but a life as a purposeful construction worker and manager of sites
makes one ham handed enough that I have to tell myself "take your time, it doesn't matter if it takes an hour. In fact 15 minutes of careful work should be adequate to remove
the vertical section and...taking time to carefully lengthen those wires...say 30 minutes to put it all back again.

My Regards