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7000 plugin socket side covers?
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The side covers on the plugin sockets (P/N 200-0950-00) in my "new" scope are in pretty bad condition. I've read where folks have tried 3D printing those several years ago but not sure how that worked out.
Anyone know of a source for some replacements (from a parts mule) or whether there's a design and a suitable material from which to have them printed? I'm fairly certain that the lack of these is causing all sorts of problems due to the fact that those covers provide the necessary contact pressure from the fingers on the card edge. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ |
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The side covers have never been printed successfully (to my knowledge); they are thin, delicate and the retention features are too small for accurate reproduction in a printer.? They provide the spring tension for the backplane connectors also.?
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-Dave On Sunday, May 1, 2022, 05:58:54 AM PDT, n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:
The side covers on the plugin sockets (P/N 200-0950-00) in my "new" scope are in pretty bad condition.? I've read where folks have tried 3D printing those several years ago but not sure how that worked out. Anyone know of a source for some replacements (from a parts mule) or whether there's a design and a suitable material from which to have them printed?? I'm fairly certain that the lack of these is causing all sorts of problems due to the fact that those covers provide the necessary contact pressure from the fingers on the card edge. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ |
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What a shame that a few thin plastic pieces sidelines such a nice instrument.
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Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Seiter" <d.seiter@...> The side covers have never been printed successfully (to my knowledge); they are |
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If, IF, I do find some replacements, I think I read where there's a specific way to clip them into place. I see where one edge is a bit wider than the other and I _think_ that edge goes towards the front (please correct me if that's wrong) but, other than just pressing them in until they snap in place, is there a technique for properly installing them?
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Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "n4buq" <n4buq@...> What a shame that a few thin plastic pieces sidelines such a nice instrument. |
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I haven't moved any of them in about 3 years, so I don't recall, but I don't recall it being difficult.? I know I've removed and reinstalled cracked ones, so it's not THAT hard.
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-Dave On Sunday, May 1, 2022, 06:46:22 PM PDT, n4buq <n4buq@...> wrote:
If, IF, I do find some replacements, I think I read where there's a specific way to clip them into place.? I see where one edge is a bit wider than the other and I _think_ that edge goes towards the front (please correct me if that's wrong) but, other than just pressing them in until they snap in place, is there a technique for properly installing them? Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message ----- From: "n4buq" <n4buq@...> What a shame that a few thin plastic pieces sidelines such a nice instrument. |
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A few days ago, I moved a side cover from a donor instrument to my extender (which had one cover missing). I found it a delicate process. The plastic seemed to be dangerously brittle; but, I got it moved without damage. As I recollect, one edge WAS slightly different and I took this into account when prying off and installing. So far, it seems OK ; but I haven't tried the extender yet.
My backup plan was to fabricate a part from 0.040" and/or 0.062" FR4, using epoxy for fabrication and a milling machine, with a fine carbide cutter, for coutouring. I haven't needed to do this; but it should work. Stephen Menasian |
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I'm interested in hearing what can be done for this problem. I have five 7000 instruments. My most recent aquisition has the outside cover for the horizontal bay refusing to stay snapped in place. The piece looks perfect, but just won't stay snapped on. There is an article on the Tekwiki about these things, but it is geared towards the inside covers. Basically they are wedging a strip of plastic between the circuit board and the cover to hold it in place. This won't work for the outside ones.
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Very interesting. I was unaware of that page. It gives me some hope. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel B Walker" <joelandjoyce@...> I'm interested in hearing what can be done for this problem. I have five 7000 |
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As a thought...
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Would the covers be 3D printable with a resin type of printer? Resin types (allegedly) have much better print resolution, but I don't know if the prints would have sufficient strength. (I don't own that type of printer, or I'd give it a whirl...) I can see where a bog standard FDM 3D printer might have resolution difficulties... David On Mon, May 2, 2022 at 8:24 AM Joel B Walker <joelandjoyce@...> wrote:
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On Mon, May 2, 2022 at 09:38 AM, n4buq wrote:
Yes, I had not seen this page either, and nobody mentioned it a few weeks back when I was asking similar questions, so it must be fairly obscure. I'm especially interested in the possibility of replacing the connectors with modern card edge connectors, which seems like a much more permanent solution to the problem. 3D-printing the aligning end pieces seems much more doable that printing the side plates. Oddly, I have some compunction about carving up the existing connectors, even though I would be entirely replacing them in the instrument. I don't think I understand how the first fix on that page ("Adding mechanical support") was implemented: there doesn't appear to be space for the reinforcing plates between the existing side plates and the guides on the back of a 7k plug-in. The pictures are too blurry to give me a good idea of what was done, and I found the description difficult to follow. -- Jeff Dutky |
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I almost like the idea of replacing them with modern connectors. The current "patient" is a 7514 and I don't know if it's the case with the Main Interface board in that scope, but in my 7704A, I ran into a problem with a multi-layer board for which I was not able to get a solid connection to one of the inside layers that ran from another hole to two of the pins on slots 1 and 2. I ended up having to run a separate jumper which I really didn't like but it works. if the 7514 has a multi-layer board, I'd be somewhat more hesitant to replace the connectors.
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I'm still wondering of Shapeways' SLA Accura? Xtreme? 200 might work and intend to look into that. Otherwise, I'll probably opt for some extra clamping pressure that's, perhaps, similar to what the fellow did with the FR4 material. It's too thick to fit inside where the plastic guide slides over the socket but I think if it is at least as far forward as possible, it could work. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dutky" <jeff.dutky@...> On Mon, May 2, 2022 at 09:38 AM, n4buq wrote:Yes, I had not seen this page either, and nobody mentioned it a few weeks back |
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It all depends on the particular connector's state. The "adding mechanical support" approach will only work if the contacts are in place and not bent, and the covers are just not "springy" enough anymore to stay in place but are not entirely crumbling - the external supports only cover the part of the side covers that remain exposed when the plug-in is seated, i.e. they mainly just hold the covers in place.
The transplant approach which I have documented on ("obscure"?) TekWiki was necessary in an extender that I had and in an early instrument (a 7503), where a number of contact fingers were beyond salvage, and some of the covers were cracked too much to create contact pressure even if held in place. It's a lot of work and the modern connector has much higher friction and insertion force (not designed for frequent insertions I guess), but it does conclusively fix contact problems. The contacts de-solder very easily and without danger to the multi-layer PCB, because the holes are relatively wide (I suspect they were slightly oversized by design to help assembly). You may be able to salvage covers and contacts to fix one of the remaining sockets like in my case where both V slots needed replacement but I was able to fix the H slot. BTW, at least once the contact fingers are off, you won't feel sorry about cutting up the remaining connector skeleton to hold the new connector. |
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