Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
Search
547 Fan lubrication
Hi all,
The fan in my 547 was running slow and taking a long time to run up to speed. I took it apart to find the bearings all gummed up with sticky greasy old oil. I've washed it all out with an appropriate solvent and now need to relube it. Is there a recommended oil to use? I have various grades available ranging from 3-in-1 to heavy EP90. I'm leaning in towards 3-in-1 or maybe Mobil-1 motor oil. There's no recommendtion in Stan Griffiths' book. Any ideas or advice? Thanks, Morris |
What kind of bearings are they?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I¡¯d consider using a Teflon-based lubricant. DaveD Sent from a small flat thingy On Aug 13, 2019, at 06:43, Morris Odell <vilgotch1@...> wrote: |
tom jobe
Sewing machine oil...
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 8/13/2019 3:43 AM, Morris Odell wrote:
Hi all, |
On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 05:43 AM, Morris Odell wrote:
As you well know, the problem with these bearings is that the ideal lube is a light bodied grease that stays put. Simple to apply such grease when the motor is being assembled, unfortunately, it is impossible to get such a product into the bearings because of the close tolerances and other design characteristics. One must revert to a less viscous product that will penetrate the slim gaps, but still lubricate and stay in place. Definitely use a synthetic product that will not gum up. I use synthetic motor oil on many of these type applications. -- Michael Lynch Dardanelle, AR |
I have used Mobil One 0W-15 for decades to lube small electric motors and always had great results. Sleeve bearings are made of sintered bronze and are porous, so care needs to be taken to be sure the old residue is flushed out and plenty new oil is absorbed.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Bruce Gentry, KA2IVY On 8/13/19 6:43 AM, Morris Odell wrote:
Hi all, |
Chuck Harris
The bearings are oilite, which is a sintered bronze
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
sponge like material. You definitely do not want to use any lube with fine particles in it, like teflon, as it will clog the pores of the oilite. To clean the old bearings, a fine brush, and a long soak in naptha works about as well as you can do. Heat causes the oil to leave the bearing, and cooling causes the oil to be sucked into the bearing, so warm them up good and hot in a puddle of light synthetic motor oil, and allow them to cool. They will be as good to go as they are going to get. The felt that is held against the bearing is there as an oil reservoir. The oil basically flows from the felt into the oilite, and forms a very thin film between the shaft and the bearing. This is why it is important that the clearance between the oilite and the shaft be only a a couple of thousandths of an inch, or so. Oilite tends to be a little abrasive when it wears, and usually the hard steel shaft will wear out before the oillite. So, if your bearing rumbles, it generally means you need a new shaft. Over oiling the bearing will just work for a few days, then the oil will go away, and the rumble will return. -Chuck Harris Dave Daniel wrote: What kind of bearings are they? |
Chuck Harris
I use mobil 1 5W30... because my car uses it, and I collect the
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
drips from "empty" bottles. -Chuck Harris Morris Odell wrote: Hi all, |
Thanks to everyone who responded to my question, it has turned into quite a large and interesting discussion!
I have had the bearings soaking in a naphtha type solvent for the last couple of days and will let them dry out later today. Successive solvent changes now look pretty clear. The rotor shaft journals look fine. The oilite bearings are located in diecast end bells with some sort of fabric around them to retain the lubricant. I'm reluctant to disassemble them further or remove the bearing shells from their housings for fear of damaging them. I've decided to use Mobil-1 oil but not to bake the whole end bell assembly because of lack of facilities and the potential effect on the absorbent fabric. I'll just dribble the oil into the holes in the bearing housings and run the motor for while to let it warm up and soak through. Maybe a blast with the hot air gun will help. The rotor was located axially with a mixture of nylon and fibre washers together with wavy spring washers that look like phosphor bronze. Some of these are quite worn. In his book Stan Griffiths mentions that Tek used to supply replacement teflon washers but I'm sure they would not be available now. However I have found a source of teflon washers of the right size intended for the radio controlled model industry and they should arrive next week. In the meantime the scope is sleeping on its side on my workbench and I'm taking the opportunity to clean the filter and a few more areas. Incidentally the stator of the motor has a date stamp of January 16, 1964. Electronically the scope works perfectly and is a pleasure to use. It's only needed minor maintenance in the 15 years or so since I paid $100 for it. Not bad for a 55 year old classic! Morris |
to navigate to use esc to dismiss