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2467 restoration: Battery, cleaning

 

Hello all: Just opened a 2467 OPT 06, 10. SN B010xxx.

Works fine, call seems OK. ~3K HRs 150 cyc, Orig A1 U800, A5 thru hole

I plan to recalibrate but for the moment would attempt to just swap out the battery.

1/ Battery: Eagle Picher LTC-7PN 3.5V 750mah Keeper date code 2486.
Any Recommended replacement, see made in Korea and China and some seem to be knockoffs in plastic or metal cases.
Any recommended desoldering precautions?
How to replace battery without data loss?

2/ Cleaning: Have 2 that were never serviced, accumulated dust and dirt, especially near CRT and vent holes.
Use air (vacuum cleaner, compressed air or freon air can) to blow out?
cotton/Q tips and IPA?

Very wary of static or physical damage.

Many thanks!


Jon
Chuck Harris
 

Take the A5 board out of the scope, and set it on an insulating
surface... a wooden work bench is fine.

Ordinary, grounded, soldering and desoldering equipment is recommended.

The data is saved by using a 3.6V tadrian cell, with a series diode,
oriented to prevent the cell from being backwards charged. In other
words, anode to the cell's + terminal, cathode to the clip lead.

Using a hook type clip lead, that you trust to stay connected, attach
the + lead of the cell to the cathode of either CR2770 or CR2371, and
the - lead of the cell to any convenient ground on the board..

Unsolder the old cell, and then solder in the new cell.

Inspect your work, and if all looks ok, remove the clip leads, and
reinstall the A5 board.

Dust and dirt should be blown away with compressed air. Solder flux
should be removed with IPA and a stiff brush... dry with a cotton
tee shirt rag.

-Chuck Harris

Froggie the Gremlin wrote:

Hello all: Just opened a 2467 OPT 06, 10. SN B010xxx.

Works fine, call seems OK. ~3K HRs 150 cyc, Orig A1 U800, A5 thru hole

I plan to recalibrate but for the moment would attempt to just swap out the battery.

1/ Battery: Eagle Picher LTC-7PN 3.5V 750mah Keeper date code 2486.
Any Recommended replacement, see made in Korea and China and some seem to be knockoffs in plastic or metal cases.
Any recommended desoldering precautions?
How to replace battery without data loss?

2/ Cleaning: Have 2 that were never serviced, accumulated dust and dirt, especially near CRT and vent holes.
Use air (vacuum cleaner, compressed air or freon air can) to blow out?
cotton/Q tips and IPA?

Very wary of static or physical damage.

Many thanks!


Jon








 

Chuck! Perfect!

The battery seems hard to locate, any tips?

Thanks again,

Jon
Chuck Harris
 

I usually get mine from OSI, which can be found
on the internet. They are about $16 plus shipping.

OSI sells the same part, but as replacement for use
in different instruments... for different prices, so
pick the cheapest.

-Chuck Harris

Jean-Paul wrote:

Chuck! Perfect!

The battery seems hard to locate, any tips?

Thanks again,

Jon
 



Substitute Tadiran batt installed here.
 

I bought my battery at Mouser a few years ago for my Tek 2465A DV. I also soldered the wires to the battery holder that I used to the board because I was afraid the alligator clips might come loose on me. I wrote an article about it that you can google if you want to.

Robert
Chuck Harris
 

Soldering could be safer, or it could accidentally short
the voltage to ground and delete the constants.

I figure that a) I calibrate scopes regularly, so the constants
are nothing special to me, and b) if the battery needs replacing,
likely the scope has needed calibrating for many years... so
either way, the constants are nothing special to me...

I was mostly espousing the method for the edification of others,
as there are times when you may need to replace one of these cells,
where the loss of power will mean the loss of something truly
irreplaceable, like a program stored in the battery backed up RAM.

-Chuck Harris

Robert Calk Jr. wrote:

I bought my battery at Mouser a few years ago for my Tek 2465A DV. I also soldered the wires to the battery holder that I used to the board because I was afraid the alligator clips might come loose on me. I wrote an article about it that you can google if you want to.

Robert
 

Hi Chuck,

I don't think my scope needs calibration. It doesn't even look like it was used much. Probably set in someone's closet for 30 years. Praise The Lord they were non-smokers! In my article you can see in the photos how new and clean my scope looks.
It seems to be pretty much spot on, at least for me. I don't know if it would be accurate enough for you guys. But it worked out great! I just thought that my article with photos might help guys to change their battery if they don't have the equipment to do their own calibrations, or can't afford to spend $600 to have someone else do it.

Robert
Chuck Harris
 

The price of a calibration and replacing the battery
is about 1/3 what you think.

Contact me off group if you want to know the details.

-Chuck Harris

Robert Calk Jr. wrote:

Hi Chuck,

I don't think my scope needs calibration. It doesn't even look like it was used much. Probably set in someone's closet for 30 years. Praise The Lord they were non-smokers! In my article you can see in the photos how new and clean my scope looks.
It seems to be pretty much spot on, at least for me. I don't know if it would be accurate enough for you guys. But it worked out great! I just thought that my article with photos might help guys to change their battery if they don't have the equipment to do their own calibrations, or can't afford to spend $600 to have someone else do it.

Robert
 

Hi Chuck,

For real!?!? Wow, $200 isn't bad at all! Of course, that doesn't include shipping. After I get it recapped and my rebuilt Siemens Hall-Effect fan motor back in it, I will give it some good checks. If I need a recalibration I will definitely contact you.

Thanks Chuck,

Robert

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