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I will second the vote for the TDS220. They're readily available for cheap these days (CRINGE when I think what I paid for mine when it was new!), and they were the first or nearly the first of the

Re: Thermal imaging cameras There are now some very reasonably priced thermal imaging cameras that will plug into a tablet or cell phone (used for the control software and display). Examples: FLIR One

I'm going to go out on a limb and disagree with much of what has already been advised to you. I get your desire to concentrate on hollow state gear, and stick with the older stuff that interests you.

I have a question on the horizontal calibration where the service manual says to align certain time markers and to "superimpose the delayed B Sweep time markers". Does that mean to: (A) Superimpose

Have a cosmetically extremely nice 3B3 timebase that I have finally gotten around to restoring. Did a thorough cleaning, cleaned all contacts, lubricated, and tested all tubes and transistors.

Hi Gudjon, Good work! I imagine that the piece you milled is, in effect, an extension of the switch body to the “free space” beyond the pcb to enable the sliding part of the switch to be assembled

Brilliant, thanks Ozan. I'll see what I can find out from that. Ralph

Try Qservice, which is based in Europe (Greece, I think) and may have what you need. See https://www.qservice.tv/vpasp/shopdisplayproducts.asp?page=11&id=210

James 55:Some of the discussion , is now far afield...eg lockin amps and IR cams like killing fly's with nukes'. TSHOOT LOGIC: The TEK manuals have very fine flowcharts for testing PSU and other

I can confirm that those caps have a relatively high failure rate, so if you're seeing a lot of ripple and/or a low average voltage across them, out they should go. Tom -- Prof. Thomas H. Lee Allen

James: A comment about the 455 with the low +95v rail that you described:? Check the following components: C582: 2.2 ufd cap, electrolytic, 2.2 ufd +50/-10%, 160V C584: 2.0 ufd cap, electrolytic, 2.0

What a great bit of feedback! Thank you all for your thoughts. To answer the one question I saw: It's the Polaroid type. George, it was your blog post I was referring to when I mentioned the shelf

Greetings yet again <grin> Everybody does. Actually, there's no reason why that isn't a good approach.? The advantage with the color codes and mV readings is that the same readings show you where the

Hi again Harvey and chaps. One thing has become clear today, and that is that I shall need some time honing the skill necessary for using a millivolt tester to find faults So, after spending several

David, https://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/tek-parts/tekpots.html Mark

First thing to check is if any of the supplies has the same pattern. If supplies look good, one area that affects all the positions (and other control voltages) is sheets <18> and <19> "DAC Control".

Gentlemen, I thank you for the input. At this point, I think I will attempt to employ the sampling route as far as is possible. I am aware of some of the limitations such as the requirement for

Hi Roman Now I have tested cleaning a 20V range switch without unsoldering it. I had to mill a U-shaped plastic piece to fit the connector sleeves into to be able to reassemble the switch. The 200mV,

Ozan, Thanks for the explanation. I failed to consider the inductance in the transformer T1050. The manual did say that T1050 is part of the buck converter. I ran a simulation with the primary and

we have excellent scope photos with an iPhone 7 and 11 no usb or files transfer and fast turn on Jon