开云体育

Thanks Stefan. In this day of digital and handheld T & M, this is antique, but affordable and functional it is... Dave

Buy a used Dranetz? ST

I have a dot! I was wondering why the power LED never turned on, so I tested it and it was bad. I replaced it with another one I had on-hand, and now I suddenly have all the voltages in-spec, and the

Data logging devices are commonplace now days. Many high-end multimeters have such a feature where you can plug the meter up to a power source and record levels over time. But I'm interested in

I added a 10 ohm current shunt to the anode circuit of V20, the 20 MHz amplifier, and used it to test all of the tubes. The anode currents varied from 4.8 to 5.7 milliamps, the gate voltages varied

I figured it out! Removing the top cover and lifting up didn't provide quite enough clearance. But I found if you remove the bottom feet and the cover, the black plastic rails are held in by a single

OK I finally have something on screen! Kind of. I found an open between a blue wire and the fuse, and repaired it with a piece of wire. Now, when I turn it on, It sits there with a blank screen for

I was surprised to find that it does *not* use the same CRT as the 2247A or 2440 series. I wonder if they are interchangeable though. <tmiller11147@...> wrote:

The attached may be helpful in the described situation with Staples. I am fortunate in that I have an 11*17 printer and find that any schematics and/or troubleshooting diagrams I have printed on 11*17

Looks like the same tube is used in the following scopes: 2213A, 2215A, 2220, 2230, 2235, 2235L, 2236 Tom

I received a 2232 scope with the UPS obligatory damage. Something in the tube is loose and the display is way out of focus. A very light tap on the tube seems to cause an internal connection to make

OK, sounds like you have an open track or the secondary of the transformer is open..Measure across the two blue wires and check the continuity to the bridge and the fuse. The transformer winding

great!!! treat her right…

Take off the top cover of the TM504, then the top front frame section (#53 in Fig 1). Lift up on the front of the FG to clear the latch and pull it out. "rwdplz1" <rwdplz1@...> wrote:

Hello, Mark-- I've encountered rejection at our local Staples store when I've requested pdf-to-paper conversion of certain technical manuals and sche

Well, I liked it ;) Don Black.

That one took me a sec. Then I rolled my eyes! Voilà, a working scope! ;)

And of course it's in the left-most slot...

In the FG503 is not installed into the left most TM504 slot, then you can take the cover of the TM504 off to get to the left side of the FG503 and remove its cover to get to the latch. If it is

"Viola"?? ? Well, I guess that's what you get for fiddling with it. ?:) Jim N6OTQ