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Looking through the schematics, it seems there's not much the 87v supply runs - mostly listed to capacitors/resistors here and there, but I found that it also supplies and runs the infamous U800. Now

Ok, I think it's time to dig deeper! Thank you Tom for your suggestions. Since I wasn't having any luck with the board, I replaced all of the 2N5551 transistors for the 87 volt supply. The old ones

Check ingredients of that product. I believe it contains several percent of hydrofluoric acid, which is usually used to etch glass, and at that percentagy could ruin your day. Miroslav Pokorni

NiCd cells use KOH, (potassium hydroxide), not NaOH. --John Gord

I have a needle dispenser bottle of vinegar on the bench (as well as alcohol and water). I use the vinegar to neutralize the hydroxide used in the NiCad battery. I use cotton swabs to mop up the

NiCd batteries use NaOH, sodium hydroxide. A very strong base. Tom

IIRC NiCd uses a NaOH (sodium hydroxide) electrolyte which is definitely basic.

Opps I forgot to mention that NiCd discharges should be acid (vs. alkaline batteries that will discharge basic) .. Therefore I would 'think' that CLR would not be your first choice (it might be for

Dennis, Being a Chem-E doesn't really equip me any better on addressing home remedies than any others we are about to hear from. I have learned over the years that empirical data and observation

Thanks. In my small panic I did not think of the ohm meter, I have the cable that should bring me to +/- 1 pin and I can see the ohm meter should allow me do figure the rest Thanks John _____ From:

That should not mater because after you use the CLR, you should follow up with a good wash with a mild soap (dawn) and hot water. Then rinse with distilled water or 91 % alcohol. Blow it off then a

You should be able to see where the filament leads are. On most Tek CRT tubes that would be pin 1 and 14. Confirm with the cathode to pin 2 and the 1st grid to pin 3. Please verify this by looking at

"ykochcal" <Kochcal@...> wrote: Pins 1 and 14 should show nearly a short between them. They are adjacent, and the key on the plastic base should be between them. As a verification, the

I'm looking for a solution to cleaning up and restoring to usable condition printed circuit boards and their electronic components that were subjected to the electrolyte from a leaking NiCd battery.

I have a T912 that had heavy use and was not working that I was given. I fixed a number of transistors and got a trace working but still had some intermittent problems. For practice, I decided to give

Interesting. Does it say "WARNING 80V on Center Conductor" above the SMA like it does on the GR874 ones? Does it look like there was a larger hole for a GR874 where the SMA is? Dennis

A note for the archive. Telonic Berkley, makers of the RF Attenuators often fitted to the 7L12/13/14 SA still exist. For anyone with a (partially) duff attenuator they can supply replacement chip

Tarnex is the best I have found if you want to be quick and consistent. I think the amount of metal loss is trivial. Rinse and neutralization are key. Most all of the ‘wives tale’ methods of

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ele/3637029844.html Just saw it... FYI, Dave

Thanks for the advice. All four channels looked reasonable and I didn't notice any non-linearity, but I only spent a few minutes with the scope. I'll get methodical next. I did notice some crosstalk