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Hi Mark, Thanks for your advice. I tried reseating the ribbon cables and the text came back, but was now wobbling. The only adjustments I remember significantly changing were C114/C124 (CH1/2 input

Perhaps not very helpful on the topic but nevertheless: you should avoid putting all your private pics on the web! It might even be dangerous for us as there is no guarantee the files do not contain

It's not really clear which LED's are lit as lots of them light up, before all switching off. Wondering which tests can be done by a process of elimination in order to rule out the faults?

Eric, From some notes I took long ago. Pinout: (I don't know actual numbering scheme) A B C D E F G H A--Signal B--Shield C--Violet, +5V D--Black, -5V E--Brown, +1.53V when DC Reject ON, 0V when

[email protected]> wrote: Sure, but which FP LED is lit before you exit the diagnostic monitor? This tells you which POST is failing, which may help pick a direction for diagnosis.

Aneesh, I suspect you pulled a connector or more loose by removing the case. Check and reseat connectors. This can easily happen removing the case and/or doing any checking without you noticing. A

Hello, I have a Tek P6248 differential probe, on which the micro wires in the head have unfortunately broken off. Unfortunately, the pinout of the wires, or the "Cinch" plug, is no longer

I recently acquired a Tektronix 2246 oscilloscope. It seemed to be working fine until I opened it and tried to check the test and self-calibration voltages (some of which out of the limits, but it is

Eng, Q944 is a 2N3565 (151-0432-00), 610-2N3565 Mouser part number. The zener can be replaced with a 78-BZX85B6V2 (Mouser part number). Mark

Looking at 330 ohm axial lead resistors on Mouser, no 10% parts, only 5% or better. Quantity 1, 1 and 5% parts both $0.10. At my previous employer,? we only used 1%'s everywhere. Any small

Mmm!? Ok, so taking a closer look at the A5 board there are at least 4 IC's which have either been removed or 'attempted' to be removed. Gonna have to pull these over the weekend, check or

While you are at it, you should check the resistor in series with the blown RIFA, current limiting NTCs for drift, and the resistors in parallel with the NTCs for damage. There are three more RIFAs

So.. The reference voltages are both present. Perhaps 2 or 3 mV on the high side but very much present.

Indeed /g/TekScopes/photo/300835/3889065?p=Created%2C%2C%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C0

I have found it's easier to loosen the collet holding the fan onto the fan motor to do the removal. It can also be a good time to add some silicone lubricant to the motor *if* it needs

Funnily enough I've removed and reinstalled several of these in the last couple of weeks. My experience has shown me that there were two different types of fan used on these scopes. The earlier

Wow. That A/B Button trick is one worth remembering!... The scope now has Scale Illumination and no longer goes to sleep. ..Still no trace, nor on-screen read-outs, but the relays can be

Roy, I have no idea if 10% resistors are still en vogue. I have been fixing (or trying to fix) tube gear for some decades now, so there's plenty of that stuff in stock. And I'm sure I'm not the only

Not quite sure. They are visible without removing the board, and I don’t see any damage there. I’ll know better after removing A2."

The A2 and A3 boards can be removed by themselves and, I may be wrong about this, but I think loosening some of the screws on the back panel frees up a tab on one of those boards that slides into a