开云体育

Hi Stephen, I'm not sure my paper manual has that information so good to see it in the scanned copy from TekWiki. Apparently they still used clip-in silicon Schottky diodes which I don't find by

After a few hours of use, 2 more bridge rectifiers went bad (shorted). First it was D222, and today it’s D262. I’m gonna replace them all.

If you look at the end of the manual, starting on page 96, you’ll find the replacement procedure and parts list for those obsolete GaAs diodes. Hope this helps.

Yes, indeed, that's very good advice, Jim. Even if you don't pop the diodes outright, they can become very leaky. -- Cheers, Tom -- Prof. Thomas H. Lee Allen Ctr., Rm. 205 350 Jane Stanford

I bet an anti-static wriststrap is in order when working with these tiny junctions.? ? ? ? ? Jim Ford?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

Crap!? I read this after I got it all put back together and seems to be working!? So, Ben, I need to replace which switch?? The top and bottom switches are indeed NC, and the monitor switch in the

I took a look at the tekwiki page and saw those custom packages. Pretty cool looking -- like scaled-down old-style point-contact "catwhisker" detectors from the days of crystal radio. If it were my

Did you check the 32v unregulated supply voltage? There is a jumper, but there is also definitely a fuse in the 32v Unregulated supply located on the A1 board. Check the 455 POWER SUPPLY schematic,

Thank you very much, Ben. That squares with the information provided by some other contributor. I'd never studied the complete logic of how the safety interlocks worked. Good to know that there exists

Hello everyone, I have been reading on this board and not knowing the answers till I got to this post. I have been repairing commercial food equipment for 20 plus years and microwaves are part of

I will have to try removing that retaining ring and go from there. I'm afraid that even if I can do that and release the tubing so that it comes out the front, I still may not be able to get the disk

"BAV17" (typo). Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

On second look, the DAV17 comes in a DO-35 package. I think I can solder some small-diameter tubing to the leads right up against the diode's body and clip it in to the existing

Thanks, Tom. The existing diodes are tiny glass(?) cylinders with metal ends that clip into small holders (much like the old fashioned clip-in fuses). I suppose I'll be doing some plumbing for

Interesting! Unlike the 465M, the 455 has no fuse in the HV Oscillator supply. In fact it shows as a jumper in place of the fuse. That could blow up a few things easily.

Based on the fast-rise circuitry of the 106 and PG506 being similar and having similar specs, you would seem to have several good Si-Schottky candidates. A few that come to mind

Speaking of a 106, anyone know anything about the GaAs diodes in the Fast Rise outputs? I think one or two of mine are bad. The +OUTPUT works but not the -OUTPUT. Input to the two diodes on the

Nothing better than a fan AND a heat sink for the Horizontal Chip. Digikey has one but you have to drill your own holes in it. Part Number HS273-ND

Yes, but no. Everything is fine. As you understood, I was not probing at the right place. I was misled by the +/- 9.1V beneath the capacitors, so I probed there because it was an easy access.

Ah, so your earlier "my bad" message meant to say that nothing is actually wrong with the +/-10 rails. Got it. However, regarding: "Instead of checking voltages between chassis ground and directly at