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Hello everyone, I have been reading on this board and not knowing the answers till I got to this post. I have been repairing commercial food equipment for 20 plus years and microwaves are part of

I will have to try removing that retaining ring and go from there. I'm afraid that even if I can do that and release the tubing so that it comes out the front, I still may not be able to get the disk

"BAV17" (typo). Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

On second look, the DAV17 comes in a DO-35 package. I think I can solder some small-diameter tubing to the leads right up against the diode's body and clip it in to the existing

Thanks, Tom. The existing diodes are tiny glass(?) cylinders with metal ends that clip into small holders (much like the old fashioned clip-in fuses). I suppose I'll be doing some plumbing for

Interesting! Unlike the 465M, the 455 has no fuse in the HV Oscillator supply. In fact it shows as a jumper in place of the fuse. That could blow up a few things easily.

Based on the fast-rise circuitry of the 106 and PG506 being similar and having similar specs, you would seem to have several good Si-Schottky candidates. A few that come to mind

Speaking of a 106, anyone know anything about the GaAs diodes in the Fast Rise outputs? I think one or two of mine are bad. The +OUTPUT works but not the -OUTPUT. Input to the two diodes on the

Nothing better than a fan AND a heat sink for the Horizontal Chip. Digikey has one but you have to drill your own holes in it. Part Number HS273-ND

Yes, but no. Everything is fine. As you understood, I was not probing at the right place. I was misled by the +/- 9.1V beneath the capacitors, so I probed there because it was an easy access.

Ah, so your earlier "my bad" message meant to say that nothing is actually wrong with the +/-10 rails. Got it. However, regarding: "Instead of checking voltages between chassis ground and directly at

Yes, you’re right. But weirdly enough the +/- 9.1 are also mentioned at the capacitors. Which is misleading. That’s why I expected that when I checked there, but nope…

The voltages taken directly at the emitters read + and - 9.7V. All within specs.

One other note: Even though the two rails are named "+10" and "-10", note that the schematic shows that the REAL values are +9.1 and -9.1. Pete

What about D213 and D216? You can simply measure the voltage at the cathode of D213, and the anode of D216 (or at the Base of the associated transistor, if that's easier to get to). Should be around

Yes, it's clearly been a long time since I've had to work on one of these. I was thinking that pulling the drive dog forward would disengage the drive dogs from the rear drum, but that bothered me, as

Hello Lyle. If you can't locate a replacement set, have you considered 3D printing a set? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4168123 J

Thanks everyone for your valuable feedback. Thank you for the heat sink suggestion avtek2. Reading through the various threads about "horizontal output IC" cooling, there seems to be an even split

Hi Pete. They are not shorted. I have checked all the transistors in the power supply with a dedicated transistor checker. They are fine and within specs.

My bad. I wasn’t probing the right places. Instead of checking voltages between chassis ground and directly at both emitters, I probed between ground and + C215/ C218. According to the schematic,