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Dan, I find my self in the same boat but I am also well studied in IT security as well. I would set up a separate bank account that is not a (MAIN) account and use that. If you wanted to insulate your

Hi folks, this is OFF TOPIC because it's about e-bay, but on the other hand, with the exception of my older gear, it's just about the only way I get *any* Tek or HP gear these days.? So, with

I agree with Stephen. Use enough iron! If you use too small of an iron you'll have to hold it on the board for too long while you wait for the solder to heat up enough and melt and there's a good

Thanks everyone!! Doesn’t look so formidable a job now. Bill

Hi Michael, Last night my curiosity got the better of me and I searched for and found the DM501 schematics. BTW, the Tek Wiki's DM501 (not DM501A) manual is incomplete, and I found one with complete,

If you will be considering one of the 224x line of scopes (2245/2245A, 2246/2246A, 2247A, and 2252A), I'd aim for the 2247A model, it has a couple of very useful additional counter/timer features over

I have used this seller's products for years. They are excellent. Also note that he has added a larger via to allow the use of "snap in" capacitors. This opens up another group of capacitors for your

Hi Bill, I slip a single ended hacksaw blade just under the cap, and saw off the lugs to remove the cap.? After that, very little heat is needed to remove the nubs from the board. Make sure you do

Dave, What about "9A"? Any damage to that trace? Both 9A and 9B are tied to the 33.5 Common return. Are the fuses on the +33.5 Supply the correct "Fast Acting" fuses of the right current rating? I do

In case you haven't already come across these things: Here's the adapters Paul is referring to: eBay listing number "273254508468".

I've never had any problems but I have a Metcal setup. Suitable high end equipment (Pace, Metcal, etc) always helps. Chipquick might be a good way to lower the melting point on those joints and

I have successfully changed all the caps in one of mine, a a few other as well. I used a fairly powerful iron with a broad and thick tip. That will melt the solder very quickly, especially if you add

Before I jump into replacing the low voltage power supply filter capacitors I wanted to see what technique others have used. My concern is damaging the circuit board. What is the best way to remove

Hi! I got two non working 7603 so I’m trying to get at least one of them to work. Just got one of them (which is in very good external shape!) for free from a very friendly man here in Sweden who

Alan, If you are unwilling or unable to repair a scope then my first advice would be that when it comes to E-bay, don't buy anything that isn't classified as "New" or "Used". Under E-bay's rules,

Hi all, As a first timer here, I thank you for your replies. The enquiry was on behalf of a friend who has a 1503c with a cracked screen, so replacement is his only option. I'll follow up the links

Hi Alan, The 2246 is quite a nice scope, but a big change from a 465, and maybe more than you need for the kind of work you want to do. In the 2200 series there are some very nice, lower priced scopes

Welcome Joe! Do you have the Service Manual hardcopy? Or have you downloaded it from the Tek Wiki page? https://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/465 There should be a fault tree in there (don't have a reference

Hi Joe, A 10:1 probe is actually the norm, because that's how you get to 100MHz bandwidth. A 1:1 passive probe is fundamentally limited to a small fraction of that (~5MHz for a 1m-long probe). If you

Hello All, I am in a situation where I have been physically disabled. I am an amateur radio operator and am looking for a scope for general purposes. My partiality runs towards a 465 as that is what I