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When I designed the board, I intentionally made it one-sided to eliminate the exposure of the higher voltages to the top side of the board. In retrospect, those would be very difficult to get one's

Hi Reginald, Have you taken a look at the tremendous collection of stuff on Hakanh's site? There is a semiconductor workbook at http://hakanh.com/dl/kits.htm (bottom of the page, more or less) which

Hi Tom, I've used them before. I used JLCPCB for these boards. I'm pretty sure there are several options for inexpensive boards like these. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

Alternative: use http://dirtypcbs.com/store/pcbs# You can make the design available for anyone else to order: http://dirtypcbs.com/store/designer/pcbs That saves you hassle and you are given some

I may do that. If someone wants just one, then it's somewhat cheaper to get it from someone (me?) who orders a batch. I'm probably going to order one more batch with the updates I mentioned and then

Barry, Although I'm not interested in these PCBs per se, could I make a suggestion? Perhaps for international Tek fans you could put the design (schematic, layout, & gerbers) on github, dropbox, or

I'm well aware of the site. But I had not found a substitution list on it. All a search with google produced was quotations from manuals about checking by substitution. But I did find the Tek cross

I started working in a TV shop at 13, in 1965. One older tech was a fountain of practical knowledge. I wasn't old enough to open an account at the local parts house, so he would buy things for me so

Hi Colin, The TM500 / TM5000 series went through AT LEAST five different mechanical variations of the pull tabs for reasons that I have never figured out. Each one was different enough that none of

I have minimal experience with industrial soldering machines. I was a kid back in 1970, and a ham, and getting a job working for DEI was like being let loose in a candy shop. I did a ton of odd jobs

Thanks for looking Jim. The 100, 200, 500 V marks are for a 100x probe. I'll open my 485 up this weekend and check the shaft length and see if I can detach the ring. Bob

Sorry I don't have any that go up that high on the volts scale only to 50 I don't know if you could detach the clear ring from the knob part and reglue another knob onto it I have knobs in good shape

Reginald, There is a site you can go to that is a repository for all things Tektronix they have manuals, booklets Tek publications and info and spec descriptions on lots of Tek hardware. It is named

Hi Jim, No, I have not been successful yet. I've attached pictures of both knobs. In case the attachments don't go through, the clear flange on the Volts/ Division knobs are marked 5, 10, 20, 50 mV,

I had some from a company around Orlando that was 80/20. I thought that was odd, but it was in the original containers. We also got tons of what the wave solder machines in the area skimmed as waste.

Does anyone know of a published list? The former Tek repair guy that helped me revive my 465 had one, but wouldn't share it. I have no desire to get into the scope repair business, but I do want to be

I have on hand about 100 lbs of 63/37 solder bars that came from the wave soldering machine of one of your competitors at microdyne. I know it is what they used because it came with the wave soldering

Seems I also need to reassess my rule of changing the "To" line first when passing on an email. This was meant for my nephew but neverless Im sure others may have dug out their old RS iron to give it

I repaired hundreds of Commodore 64 computers with one, along with a lot of test equipment and computer motherboards. You can do bad work with any desoldering tool. You need to practice on scrap PC

Hey Mike, you know that iron I have with the red bulb. Ive used it but perhaps I need to try it again and reassess its crappyness UD