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Lol pol, Thanks for the reply. Do you know where I can find a list of the lv test points and what they should read? After all of the hv warnings and having learned the hard way about hv working on

The fan requires the 15V rail to be working. I'm betting your LV test points are off. The 465 I just repaired was missing the 5V the 15V and the -8V the high voltage requires that those be working so

Hi all, thanks for the replies. My sn is B 317000. But i am not having much luck in finding the downloads for this later version. The scope has several small eylet tabs on the boards labeled TP

Hi Michael, How is the Display Module connected to the Base Module to measure values ? Can you hook an RMS meter and an averaging and this meter in parallel to determine if this meter is an RMS model

It would have helped if I had noted why I wanted to remove the cap! But no, unfortunately that doesn't help. The 1502 is (or ought to be) thoroughly sealed up so that it can be operated in rain and

I never use a screwdriver to lift caps, open hard disk cases, laptops etc. although every single manual suggests that. I always use the length of a regular breakfast knife. Maybe that's something to

Sorry, I didn't read your question, although I quoted it... Are you sure that by completely removing the bolt, you can't pull off the handle and then remove the cap "from the inside"? Raymond

Thanks, but I do want to remove the cap from one 1502, so I can put it on another.

You don't remove the cap: Just very slightly tighten or loosen the Allen bolt. A small angle suffices. Raymond

How can I remove the blue plastic cap over the handle pivot, as visible in http://w140.com/tekwiki/images/c/c1/Tek_1502b_4.jpg ? Background: the Tek 1502 does not have a handle with the usual fixed

Thanks to all and sundry in the group for their support. All the ordered leveling heads have been shipped out, including the item ordered this morning. I believe there are enough parts in my stock for

I do not see any regulatory markings on it and you have 120-240V with high current on flying leads. Be careful. Just sayin. I just narrowly avoided an RV fire from a 120V to chassis short due to poor

Michael A. Terrell wrote: "https://www.ebay.com/itm/401118599668 Durable-AC-80-260V-LCD-Digital-20A-Volt-Watt-Power-Meter-Ammeter-Voltmeter US $7.99 plus shipping." That's pretty slick for ten bucks,

I bought one because of the size. It was small enough to mount with an isolation transformer and Variac. It wasn't meant as an insult, just a way to free up other equipment and to use less bench

Menahem wrote:?>I personally do not use tantalums. It scares the crap out of me taht when they fail, they short. And to have to clean up that mess - all the failed components around that tant cap -

Hello group For 40 years or so I have been lettering my projects with india ink and protecting it with "clear nail polish" the best of these by far is HARD AS NAILS

Just goes to prove that I'm a caveman! Nice toy that - might even consider it! I like that it can handle 20A.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401118599668 Durable-AC-80-260V-LCD-Digital-20A-Volt-Watt-Power-Meter-Ammeter-Voltmeter US $7.99 plus shipping. Mount it in a box with a switch for 1X/10X, and add an outlet.

George, Take a look at the header of the message, where you should find Bert's email address - just like a normal email, really. Good Luck, Colin.

Tom & Bert: Thanks for the info! Yes, the 2235 is a fine scope. I believe I brought one with me ( i., e.< carried ) one service calls in the 1970's. Heavy, but essential. Tom: I will investigate