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Hi Russ, You probably downloaded more manuals now (as indicated by Dennis) if you hadn't done so already. Note that you need the manual corresponding to your S/N, below or above B250000, though the

I thought this sounded like a good idea, until I looked at the price of the obsolete ALPS MD1000, the inks, and the paper. Too hot for my pocket, by a factor of ten. Craig it to tracked printer try

Hi Russ, Welcome... The 24.5V you measure on the internal fuse is actually the unregulated side of the +15V power supply, suggestimg that this very power supply does have juice to work from.

Hi Russ, I won't be any help beyond this point since I never owned a 465 or 468. Do you have a way to measure the AC current drawn on the power line with a Multimeter when you turn power on. If it is

Start with checking

I'm calling it close enough. The previous owner had turned every var/cap/resistor available and he may sneak into your lab and turn your too. Lock your doors.

One other thing I failed to mention about your situation, is that people will suggest that you use the CRT out of a 465 or 475 in your 2235. Will this CRT swap work, Yes... Is it a decent

Hi George, That CRT is not all that rare as it came in many models of the 22xx series. A few common models that also used it are the 2213A, 2215A as well as your 2235 and the 2236. You can download

Thank you for your reply, Dennis. Unless this is radically different from the 468 re initial control settings, I cant get ANYTHING to appear on the screen..... I think the CRT is not "lighting up".

Hi Russ, Welcome to the group. The best way to do this would be for you to download the manual for this scope from this web page http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/465 Then read the chapter on "First Time

Hi, I am a music teacher in Mexico to help keep kids here. I also teach how to repair and build musicians gear including tube amps. I recently acquired a Tek 465 donated to the program. There is no

Hello all: I am shipping the last new SG 504 heads out tomorrow and there are 2 calibrated units c/w lemo cables left in this batch still available. $119.50 shipped (postal) paypal. cheers Ancel

If the Rosin won't take: Use a little mild HCL as found in rust remover products, apply directly with a toothpick and then apply rosin based solder. Once u get solder wetting clean up with a swab

The problem with replacing the small light bulbs with LEDs is that one is almost never a drop-in replacement. You can do it, but have to make some changes to accommodate the differences in supply

As Dennis said, the "elders" (should) generally provide enough negative feedback - remember, it's a control system keeping the output near a setpoint - that serious moderating shouldn't be required.

I have owned my 453 for about twenty years, and have lost track of the number of hours that I've used it. I have never had to replace a lamp. Dale H. Cook, GR/HP/Tek Collector, Roanoke/Lynchburg, VA

I value what I do to my own electronics in terms of my bench labor rate. What the LED conversion would cost in terms of my shop labor rate would probably pay for replacing the lamp several times over.

There's a kit out there to make your own dry transfer decals. It gets fairly involved, but I used it to make some labels for a 465 I was restoring. It worked fairly well, but it was such trouble that

I think you can buy protective lacquer that will not cause the printing to bloom or smudge. Scotch Magic Tape is pretty tough but I wonder of the lacquer is better. I've used ink jet decal material to

I have an ALPS MD1000 I have dedicated to decals. I might buy some water slide decal paper and try this for the cal button on my 576 curve tracer.