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Hi George, That CRT is not all that rare as it came in many models of the 22xx series. A few common models that also used it are the 2213A, 2215A as well as your 2235 and the 2236. You can download

Thank you for your reply, Dennis. Unless this is radically different from the 468 re initial control settings, I cant get ANYTHING to appear on the screen..... I think the CRT is not "lighting up".

Hi Russ, Welcome to the group. The best way to do this would be for you to download the manual for this scope from this web page http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/465 Then read the chapter on "First Time

Hi, I am a music teacher in Mexico to help keep kids here. I also teach how to repair and build musicians gear including tube amps. I recently acquired a Tek 465 donated to the program. There is no

Hello all: I am shipping the last new SG 504 heads out tomorrow and there are 2 calibrated units c/w lemo cables left in this batch still available. $119.50 shipped (postal) paypal. cheers Ancel

If the Rosin won't take: Use a little mild HCL as found in rust remover products, apply directly with a toothpick and then apply rosin based solder. Once u get solder wetting clean up with a swab

The problem with replacing the small light bulbs with LEDs is that one is almost never a drop-in replacement. You can do it, but have to make some changes to accommodate the differences in supply

As Dennis said, the "elders" (should) generally provide enough negative feedback - remember, it's a control system keeping the output near a setpoint - that serious moderating shouldn't be required.

I have owned my 453 for about twenty years, and have lost track of the number of hours that I've used it. I have never had to replace a lamp. Dale H. Cook, GR/HP/Tek Collector, Roanoke/Lynchburg, VA

I value what I do to my own electronics in terms of my bench labor rate. What the LED conversion would cost in terms of my shop labor rate would probably pay for replacing the lamp several times over.

There's a kit out there to make your own dry transfer decals. It gets fairly involved, but I used it to make some labels for a 465 I was restoring. It worked fairly well, but it was such trouble that

I think you can buy protective lacquer that will not cause the printing to bloom or smudge. Scotch Magic Tape is pretty tough but I wonder of the lacquer is better. I've used ink jet decal material to

I have an ALPS MD1000 I have dedicated to decals. I might buy some water slide decal paper and try this for the cal button on my 576 curve tracer.

Hi Gang: I generated script on my computer that most closely matched the script on the 485's I work on then print the result on laser approved decal paper. I run the paper through the laser printer

You do make an excellent point, although I expect they are somewhat more sensitive to environmental conditions, temp, vibration, shock and so on. That said I'm not planning on operating mine on an

That is exactly what I did with mine, pretty much to the letter. Glad that it worked for you too. Craig

Jeff, Ed (Breya) nailed it and indeed some printers drivers also have the option. In the case where your printer driver has it, you don't even need to use CutePDF writer. But it's so handy and freely

Thanks JJ, I`ll try to find it nearby, at some local artist's store. I may very well change my approach for the buttons of my 7623A. Those buttons (of my 7623A) are not faded (maybe only one) but

There are several ways it could be done. Either a list of modern parts from one or more OEMs for each model, to a database for as many replacements for Tek parts as possible and maybe hosted on

Ed, It was sort of an amateur (and anxiety driven) approach. The fact is that I printed that sheet on my work's laser printer (on a Friday) and didn't know then if the toner would even stick to the