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I think they *are* wired differently, the 013-0099 has the pins arranged GDS (going clockwise), while the 013-0098 goes DGS, and it's tricky to connect a FET that has the pinout GDS (as quite a few

Hi, I have a 7514 that I have been trying to revive. I now seem to have everything but a trace. The filaments on the CRT measure 120Kohms from pin 1 to pin 14. Bad I think. I would like to abtain a

I don't believe that there is any difference, in wiring, between the FET version 013-0099 and the transisitor/FET version 013-0098. After all how many ways can you connect 3 terminals? I believe that

Regarding the comments mentioned below: The problem here is the "smoke test" may be precipitated by a shorted filter capacitor, resulting in a burned out power transformer. It's a helpful precaution

I'm looking for an 013-0099-02 (or -01, or -00) for my 576. Preferably without having to pay $90 for the part and $50 on top to ship it to the UK! Thanks Dave

I've a 7S12 that needs fixing. As far as I can tell (so far) the parts it needs are: 1) The knob set for the Time/Div knob 2) The 50K 10 turn pot for the Time-Distance control. If I can't find the

Hi, Ebay has an item for a 2601 mainframe. See item 370742954052 Looks kinda striped down to me. Jerry Massengale

Recently I've noticed that my 455 is developing a fault. When first switched on it works perfectly, triggering correctly and showing a stable waveform on the CRT. After a few minutes the trace starts

Hi David, I am very interested in that ROM image you have! If you get to make a copy, let me know, please! It looks like Tek found a way to get everything in a 16k (x16) ROM. Up to version -02, there

Isn't that the truth. Picked up a non-working SC502 that had 2 - 3 amp slo-blo fuses in the place of a 0.3 amp slo-blo and a 0.75 amp slo-blo. Also someone had replaced the R943 1.1 ohm 1 watt

Triggering first: If I mess with triggering controls, it does appear as though it is triggering properly. I'll need to check more tomorrow. Voltages for the deflection plates are as follows:

The "just plug it in" method is reasonable only after the fuses have been checked to make sure they are the correct type and amperage. I wouldn't take this for granted. -Kurt

A genuine Variac typically sells for more today ($35-$50) than it did when it was first introduced in the mid-1930s by General Radio. In 1976 I was built my first computer, an S-100 system, from

As long as the dent did not result in internal damage, it may be OK. Those things are built like a tank. I have had several URM-25's over the years. Manuals are available for download, just Google the

You guys are awesome. I've been an electrical engineer for a long time but feel like I'm just getting started. The sad news is that the URM 25D I bought off of flea bay showed up with a big dent so

So I received my $137 "for parts" 7104 today. Aside from some dents and a slightly dim readout, I can't find a thing wrong with it. It was sold without plugins, so maybe the seller didn't have any

I use both, a Variac and a "Dim Bulb" tester. Sort of a belt and suspenders approach, but it works! Of course you need to stock up on 100 watt bulbs while you can still find them! Just Google "Dim

If anyone in the NYC area needs a high-power regulated DC power supply, I have a Lambda LK-362-FMOV. Input: 220VAC. Output: 0 to 60VDC, 30A max. Is is described here:

The P6108 is a member of the 5 mm probe family. The 5 mm refers to the diameter of the ground sleeve. The ground wire for this probe is the same one used on the P6105, P6106. and the older P6053

Hi Tom, That's what I read somewhere, that the -00 tube was for the early units. The one in my scope is the -10 and it does not have the mesh. At least it is not brought out on pin 12 like in the