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i was thinking of trying that. i already cleaned grunge and hair off that spot. a drop or 2 of a proper lube might help.

Take the knobs off and put a drop of thin oil on the shaft where it goes into the pot. Give it a day or so and try it. Should help with the noise. Tom

yes, i just tried it out. dual rate pot. it felt "grindy" and seemed malfunctioning but with this knowledge i can see it just needs some cleaning maybe, but it is functioning correctly. scratch

I'll defer on the chemistry to ditter2 or Dave Hess. I'd put tants back in there myself -- probably 35 V ones.... -ls- "pdxareaid" <public_email@...> wrote:

It is a dual-rate pot. You turn it just past where you want to be and when you back up it's a slower rate. You can feel it in the amount of torque you have to apply. If you can figure a way to get it

Yeah, I did look it up, but only in the midst of doing about 5 other tasks. I still wonder why I've never heard of it before; it's unusual I come across a non-technical word that I've never seen

ah, i see parts scheme now. it is all thee in service manual. values confirmed for those tants 15uf, 20v, 20%. can i use any type of cap that meets those specs or is there something magical about

thanks, the wonky pots are hopeless unless there is something i don't understand about coarse vs fine adjustment but i doubt it. 1st pass i will try to get them out and deconstruct without breaking

Is it just me or is the service manual for a 2221a scope next to impossible to find? I have been searching google all evening and have only found the 2221 service manuals for the 60 MHz scope and not

On 25 Sep 2012 at 0:52, TekScopes@... wrote: > Posted by: "pdxareaid" > Date: Mon Sep 24, 2012 5:48 pm ((PDT)) > > i'm not sure of the best way to post this followup for all previous >

It's in the dictionary: 'discreetly cautious'. 'Wary' is 'marked by keen caution'. Not the same thing. Interesting article, although the author has some stylistic issues. The attempt to attach one

yep thats them. is there something more reliable to replace them with or should i stick to tants? phil yeah, can't complain :-)

i took a pic. i'll send it to your personal email. i see know easy way to attach a pic to these replies. i have 3 brown blob "dipped" tants for C7196, C7197 and C7288. i forget exactly which of these

If we're looking right above the power switch, I have 3 ea 15 uF @ 20 V tants. Looks like they are decoupling for +/- 8 & +5, so 20 V wasn't too close. I dunno. They die. Even with a couple bad tants,

thanks...i'll check it out. it does not seem right but i will revisit. phil

Phil, If I recall correctly, the 465B has a dual rate horizontal position control to give finer resolution when the sweep is magnified. This can seem like play in the control. --John Gord

For the record- tried resistor to the ring connection, was only able to get 10x functionality on the 5D10. Jamie

Which cap are we talking about? I'll slide the skin off of mine and see what it has in it. The pic in the manual almost looks like a wet tant. Those weren't real commonly used. -ls- "pdxareaid"

yeah, tantalum innards leaking out occurred to me but it sure looked like solder. what you say makes more sense. i never looked up tantalum construction but i understand they are electrolytic. i will

Good tip on the manuals from artek- my friend (the owner of the 5116 & 5D10 I'm working on) has them and they've been helpful in understanding the scope and plugins better. I'm sure when the time