开云体育

Sorry, no complementary outputs on the '374, just one Q (true) output for each D input. Raymond

Since we're at it: It's not 8 latches: There are 8 D-type flip-flops in a '374. Latches pass the input with one control level (the output follows the input, no clock involved) and latch their input

I have purchased TM500 plugins from reputable sellers (eg. Stewarts of Reading, Telford Electronics) and from less well-known purveyors on eBay and have found several broken latches of this type. The

These can still be found as NOS on eBay. I bought a 6NO45T, a couple months back for around $10, for a Tek 551 I'm restoring. Turned out I didn't really need it. The main open-air PS relay that the

Missed it by that much. Sent from my iThing, so please forgive typos and brevity.

Would you believe octal latches? Sorry about that, Chief.

Cory, I have no experience replacing the latch, but I have a side cover that looks exactly like yours, where the latch seems to have broken internally: the slotted side rotates, but the latch side

By the way, U430 and U530 are 74LS374 quad D latches (a.k.a. FF). Nothing fancy; just typical LS stuff.

Likely no surprise to most if not all, Sphere in Canada has the AA 501A parts I need, with some caveats: the knob is a dark grey type rather than light grey as originally fitted (no big deal there),

There is an early prototype of that fixture. It allows the analog scope to function without any other digital cards. The prototype is a subset of 067-0912-00. It is pictured on Kurt R’s tekwiki page

/g/TekScopes/album?id=266281 Raymond

Greetings! Does anybody have any experience removing or repairing the 1/4 turn latches found on the side panels of some TM 500 modules, or are there replacements available? I added a new album titled

UPDATE Looks like you get the same hollow-ball shock mounts in any of the following DJI RC copter “Zenmuse” camera mount parts kits: Part 42 for H3-3D; Part 3 for H4-3D; and Part 7 for Z15. They

I use a TC-201 with 700F screwdriver tip. You want mass more than temperature. Silver-bearing solder. In and out quick. Careful not to wedge the tip in the slot, it will break it. FWIW, Dave Wise

Jeff- working on older parts the oxide on the leads impedes "solder-ability", so just a gentle cleaning. scotch-brite(red/green/grey), I use whatever is nearby (green/grey at the bench). Re the tips

531/535/541/545 are the first generation of 500-series scope. 533 is second-gen, 533A is third. Black Beauty and Good-All from this era use plastic film insulation just like modern caps. In general

Put the neon lamp at the end of a one foot plastic rod. Harvey

re: Ebay sky high. I almost hate to rub it in, but did you see the link I put up the other day, from eBay? A fellow in Corona California selling six plug in modules he had gotten from a storage unit

Hi Jeff, Well, glad you are cautious...we don’t need any “did you hear about Jeff...” posts popping up. ? Still, and fwiw, you don’t have to get very close with the neon bulb, in fact, not

Many thanks!!! I am often amazed by the expertise and help available on the web. Thanks again, Dave