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If possible, position things so that the tip of the drill points up. Stray shavings will fall away from instead into the hole. Thanks, Barry - N4BUQ

Do the 1502 (A/B) even have the tunnel diodes? I know that the 1503 has an avalance transistor pulse generator, which does not have the same sensitivity to static damage as the tunnel diode (which is

The easiest way is not to let them get in in the first place. What I do, though I don't do this very often, preferring to disassemble pots where I can, is to first slide a piece of brass tubing over

Hi Richard, And how do you get the drill shavings out of the pot? Dennis Tillman W7PF

The interesting counterpoint is that the weak point in the 1502 is the unobtanium tunnel diode. I did have one with a bad CRT and a bad HV power supply (and a bad horizontal amplifier). Finding one

The LCD display on these are miserable.. An early electroluminescent backlight with a heater for cold environments, difficult to read in almost any condition. If the display is bad, ie, looks like it

Unknown, but I suspect (don’t really know) that the tunnel diodes are broke. Most of the earlier 1502’s that we sent to customers on rent came back with blown diodes Regards, Stephen

There are a slew of them on eBay for pretty nominal prices as parts units. How hard are they to repair?

No reason you couldn't use a termination for the same thing, unless you think that a static discharge across a 50 ohm termination might be a problem. Harvey

Hi Albert, of S901 "Correction Memory Switch", see page 2-5, is important. For now the best way is to set the switch in the rear (OFF) position (as long as you don't have a pulse generator

On the right side: loosen two setscrews in the top and bottom rails just behind the front panel. One the left side: loosen a small setscrew on the top of the lower rail. It holds the left module pivot

My SD-26 heads came with shorting caps. And I need caps for my SD-22 heads. I'm wondering though if non-shorting caps would be more appropriate. The male pin rotating in the female sleeve seems

Thanks Cliff. Before seeing your post, I figured out that the whole front comes off - the hard way. I started unscrewing everything front and back, and whole plug-in began to fall apart. It's pretty

Along with picture, I use a sharpie, and mark the parts on the inside... where it isn't visible. I use 1A, 2A... and so on, for the left... and 2A, 2B...and so on for the right. I also mark the part,

along with the tools above, I'd take an adjustable wrench, a socket set (with ratchet, and drivers)… and a set of deep sockets, for removing recessed bolts.

Hi All: If I remember... and it is the hex bolts/screws, in the pivot.. that are recessed... I used a ratchet and a socket, from a set of "deep sockets" to remove those. It's straight forward with

OK. I found screws from the inside, but they are inaccessible without pulling the right side RF casting assembly. It also appears the front of the casting is held with setscrews on some kind of pins

Ed, Be careful with those knobs. The switching (partly physical contacts and partly an optical encoder) is contained entirely inside the knobs themselves. Disassembly is not recommended unless they

I just picked up a severely mechanically damaged 7L5, and trying to rebuild it. I started taking apart the front panel, removing the knobs as usual. The frequency span/resolution and time/div knobs

What more would you like to know? The limitation with the 2402 is simply its age. The hardware is well made so, that aspect of the age is not a big issue. But DOS is a problem. MANY modern