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Problem fixed. I replaced that suspect capacitor with a 4.7uF, 100V electrolytic, and now the delay time after which the B sweep starts is rock stable... Now I have a suspect, which maybe somebody

With "not at other speeds" you mean not at faster speeds either? Use enough brightness to judge that, since the jitter may not be evenly spread. Related to what I said before about trigger level: Do

from Tim P (UK) I wonder if those stand-off bushes used to space pots off front panels (particularly 500-series plug-ins) would suffice. Tim

Or, in a pinch get a short tube, rubber, silicone, a striped off? jacket? from cable, heat shrink etc that fits over snugly? on the? pots threads. Then just add some cleaner drops in the tube or

I think GC Electronics made them for their contact cleaner. Long cylinder that threaded onto the mounting nut, maybe 5 inches long and necked down to a small diameter that fit the aerosol nozzle of

No, this is a symptom I am asking for help with. The jitter is constant at all trigger levels on 50ns/div, but not other speeds.

I found them on ebay, I might get a set for my restorations. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=guitar+pot+cleaning+cap Thanks for the heads up! :)

Oh yes, it is absolutely normal. The slope should be much steeper for measuring pulse widths or slopes: Consider the fact that with your setup a minimal difference in trigger voltage means a

To me, that would make sense if the wire went through to a contact inside the socket. The sockets I have are sealed at the bottom. If they did it that way, then it makes sense. Not su

George- I have been thinking of where the wire may have originated, I looked at my 6202A and realized it might be the "feed through" wire to the replaceable tip. If that is the case then the (working

OK, thanks for explaining that the different starting positions are as designed. Please look at this trace though: https://www.ecosensory.com/tek/tek-7B71_trouble-7.jpg Did you see the 1 div wide

I remember seeing in the distant past, a catalog picture of a pot/contact cleaner which threaded onto the pot threaded bushing. I guess you would then put in the cleaner/lube, and push a plunger to

Hi ..., I just sent you the TDS600B software. This may work for you. I am not aware of the availability of the TDS600C software. Raymond

I do the same thing for repairing old electronics in general. If it is a sealed pot, unseal it. I just carefully drill a hole like you do Richard.

Hi John, There's nothing wrong with your 7B71. If anything, I am surprised at the speed of unblanking that I see, especially at 100 ns/div. Unblanking is when the beam, which has been suppressed

Hi folks, I have a Tektronix TDS654C that is in need of calibration, as I had to replace a couple of attenuators on the unit. I believe the previous owner must have severely overloaded a couple of

I've got a 7B71 that has problems when in the .05us, and .02us positions. The trace starts at a level corresponding to the trigger level as the trigger level knob is turned. Triggering is in normal

?would be interesting to submerge a "sealed" pot in a liquid and see if the pot eventually fills up, just as an experiment to see just how well these sealed pots are sealed. Some time ago I had to

My foolproof method is to drill a small hole on the top side at the rear. Pump in De-Oxit Fader Lube and seal the hole with some black tape. 73, Dick, W1KSZ [email protected]> wrote:

? ?I also have restored 100's of "sealed"? noisy controls by pointing the control shaft straight up vertically, wrapping something around the bottom of the control to catch the excess contact