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No, I am not only talking about removal. Unless you are working with something way different than the 2465, 2465A, or 2465B, what I said applies to both removal and installation of the blue

Installing requires removal of front and carefully installed so finger prints don’t make display dirty. I think Chuck is only talking about removal ,but why not remove the front and not take risk

The trick. The filter goes inside of the bezel lips, right tight against the clear plastic implosion protection screen. It slides up into a slot and a waiting spring, inside of the top lip of the

I have seen so many of the IEC type power cords, made in China, with failed wires that I am immediately suspicious of them. I have taken a few apart, and was appalled at how crappy the hidden

I have 2 2445B's and a 2465.? They have moulded-in grooves in the top of the bezel, but not slots. It appears that the only way I can put a blue filter on one of my scopes is to remove the bezel and

Hello again Hakan, Hey, sorry to revisit this again. I just order one “brand new”, from China, $38.29/shipping. I am supposed to have it sometime next month (Nov ‘18). I’ll have to post if

Gents, Apologies for my delayed update. Unfortunately, work took me away for longer than expected. As most of you expexted, it was just a power supply issue. I gave it the full work over this time

Further study of the catalogs suggests that they never did retool. In 1967, some instruments with plastic trim went "limited demand" without pictures; others simply dropped the trim. As far as I can

Chuck, thanks for laying out, step by step, what I was summarising. The 113V reading is about what you would expect using a DVM with high (10M) input resistance with the scope's ground disconnected.

Let's gather some solid evidence: The bond wire in the IEC style power cord goes directly to the chassis by way of the mains power line filter module. It is a belt and suspenders system. The

A5 problems are a sufficient condition for no screen. On my 2467 a clamping zener on the -1.25V reference had gone short, causing no display at all. You've probably read up on this already, but the

Alex, The filter gets put back in after you put on the front panel. Just make sure the metal clip is installed on the front panel at the top of where the filter goes. You just slip the filter in

Shalom Menachem. I've just looked at your profile and note you're in Jerusalem.I've been amused when visiting Israel to find some high current applainces connected using our old British BS546 15 amp

Correct on the 230VAC assumption! I've checked that it is "grounded" - there are Y capacitors in the sealed EMI-filter unit - right at the AC input, and I'm beginning to suspect those of

Are you sure the scope is properly grounded? Measure it rather than assuning it's OK because another peice of kit doesn't give any trouble. Just stray capacitance can cause an ungrounded chassis to

This morning, I was working with my scope, and I touched the CH1 BNC socket - ground side. BZZZZ. I thought I was dreaming. I measured the voltage to AC Ground - 113VAC!!! So something's leaking

Alex, There is a vast amount of information around about the A5 corrosion problem. The corrosion usually causes two 10k precision resistors to change their value. These set the voltage reference for

That's a excellent tip for removing SMD caps, thanks for sharing.

OK - the correct physical size is 1/3 AA. Although tagged batteries of that size are available, they all seem to be rechargeable 1.2V. But, the physically smaller 1/3 N (11.6mm dia, 10.8mm long) at

That is really neat! Apparently available in Australia and NZ. But so far no luck finding in the UK or Europe. I'll try out my solution and report back what the result is. Craig