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Taylor, George, Thank-you. This is greatly appreciated. I do have a question. I didn't find a troubleshooting guide. Is there one buried in there someplace? And a very big thanks to everyone

Did you try Talon Electronics? I get FREE yes FREE pdf service manuals from them, just for asking. George is the old timer there - be sure you put that in the contact form. I got an LG LCD manual

Thanks Mark. I ended up using a 470 uF cap rated at 250 volts. Turns out I didn't need to perform the technique after all. In my haste checking voltages, I missed the mV designation on my DMM. Looks

Yeah, I'm pleased that the voltages are OK. I will begin checking the connections over the weekend, but I will have trouble with the transistors. I know some scopes use sockets for the transistors,

You can also use a higher voltage cap too. Won't matter a bit. Just don't go lower. Mark

Well, the good news is that it seems you won't have to replace one or more of the large el. caps. If you're now certain about the voltages you reported, I'd say the power supply voltages are good

OK, so this is kind of embarrassing. Turns out the 15 v I said I saw last night on the 110 v rail, was actually 15 mV. Sucks getting old. I hooked up a 470 uF 250 v cap that I pulled out of an old

Is there another plugin next to the stuck one ?Sometimes, if a PI side panel is not installed correctly, the front edge can get caught on an adjacent plugin, or on the left edge of the

Cavid: Thanks; that worked great! Mike N4MWP wrote: [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/TekScopes/conversations/messages/96664 https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/TekScopes/conversations/messages/112514

Dear all! I replaced the batteries BT150 (A18 Memory Board) and BT130 (A14 I/O Board) on my 11801C. Because the fact, that the NVRAM is completely cleared, the scope lost also its ID#. Is there a

One more. This is what I order finally. Available at no extra shipping cost in Europe also.

In connection with the concept of using the LH1262 (or similar) device, I have two questions for the group members: 1. To implement the "regulation" suggested by raymonddf, applied to the use of an

Thanks for the insight Paul. I am familiar with parts removal, and would probably have determined the best course of action would be destroying the cap and removing the individual legs one at ta time.

If you can't get to that file, I think I have a copy around that I could mail you. It's a good writeup. The big fun comes in replacing the cap. The PCB is easy to damage. It's probably easiest to

Raymond: Thanx for all the info. When it's working properly, the 7S14 is a sweet plug-in. I also wish there were more retired Tektronix engineers who would do repair and calibration of old Tek

So now it seems to be just fine. Last night I fired it up and it still had the problem. Then I took it out and poked around in the circuitry looking for anything suspicious, jiggling stuff around some

There is a file in the files section called Tek 465 Power Supply Capacitor Replacement Guide.pdf that might help you find what you need. Since the yahoo boobs went to neo, I am unable to open the

Thanks Mike. I think I'm thinking too hard about this. That makes obvious sense. Cheers Kevin KN4M TekScopes@...> wrote:

Use you dmm on the existing capacitor to verify the correct polarity BEFORE attaching added capacitor. Mike N2LYM