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GREAT NEWS. Before starting a recap I suggest you find the source of these problems.? Otherwise, any mistake made during recap will make it necessary to find two problems at one time.? That is much

Me too... That's very interesting, thanks. I see one of those on the +5V line for the analog supply schematic.

This is my first group post, so don't hesitate to correct my citing style. I'm using yahoo's online web post function. Regarding your problem: I think I had similar problems (flickering, 50 Ohm

My switch says in full text Continental Wirt where Wirt is in kind of logo style. This is at the side opposite to that of the rating text mentioned earlier. Albert ==== Yup, but if you look

I take that back - turns out I was messing with the MCP bias which isn't too helpful. When I cranked up the CRT bias I got an error message display - very exciting - thanks! "TEST 05 FAIL

To all respondents, Thank you all for your information and insights. Mostly I'am a guy with a magnifying glass, but this time I didn't notice the coax connectors into the backplane of this

"What's wrong with your channel 2?" -- Well, it's now channel 1. ;) It started as a bit of instability, ie: trace jumping around with no change to the controls. And the position wasn't properly

I'd try the switches manually, ie, remove the plastic linkage to the front panel knob. If the circuit works correctly, adjust the metal collar set screws. But the problem here is that the set screw

I've combined five responses into one posting to save "space"... Mon Jan 27, 2014 7:43 am (PST) . Posted by: "Paul Amaranth" amaranthp Do a google search for XYZs of Oscilloscopes. That's a great

Ah, I see, but that's a mechanical thing. The plastic thingy that sits on the switch either cracks so the switch doesn't engage fully in either of its positions, or it just pops off. But you said the

Yup, but if you look closely, you'll see the little cW logo, with the W having like wings or something. That was my clue, we've got the same switches. CW is a huge switch manufacturer, but maybe the

@ snapdiode: The DC imbalance caused by malfunctioning Invert switch is mentioned in the 1A4 Instruction Manual, p.5-8, Table 5-3 "Circuit Isolation Troubleshooting Guide": "3. No trace or waveform

@ Cliff: Absolutely! - I was really hoping the faults were in some of the transistors - at least they're in sockets... Just my luck it was the switches. You're right; it's a superb piece of gear

Awesome. I have a mixer in my L20 that's made by Royal Microwave Devices. Anybody got any history for them? All I can find are auction items here and there.

In the photos section. I had a burnt out power light on my 191. I was very annoyed by this bizarre type of bulb and its oddball voltage. Instead of trying to find a new one I improvised a LED. Because

This is from the switch datasheet. Relative humidity—Switches will be operable and insulation resistance shall be greater than 100 megohms if allowed to dry for 100 hours at room temperature of

Not directly Tek related but - interesting seeing a lot of old names that are no longer with us--- http://www.microwaves101.com/encyclopedia/wherenow.cfm DaveB, NZ

How about this one ... http://www.psych.usyd.edu.au/pdp-11/hints.html 73, Dick, W1KSZ

On 01/27/2014 10:11 AM, Bob Vines wrote: > > Since many of the Group members that post regularly seem to have up to > 30-40+ years of oscilloscope experience, can you recommend good 'scope > books or

Hi Patrick, Yes it looks like a cable ground problem. On the other hand I would think the problem to be intermittent then. But whatever I try (bending the cable and so on) nothing helps. There are