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And mine arrived yesterday, here in the frozen tundra of Quebec, Canadaland. So much more better to read the physical copy than a PDF. Thanks again to Dennis for arranging and doing the

All The pictures of the two instruments show two radically different diodes. Those black ones in Leo's picture appear to be high voltage diodes. In Jose's they appear as typical low voltage. My

Also, on my 7L12, the MHz dial is really very approximate: it's usually within about 20MHz of the correct value, drifting somewhat as it warms up. Mine might be broken, of course, but it's always

Did you try adjusting the Horizontal Position knob, right side, in the middle? Raymond

Hi, Do you have a button that said start / center above frequency indicator? -----Mensaje original----- De: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] En nombre de hardyhansendk via

Likely BAV21... especially if it replaced an original part. (NDP341, which is obsolete and very hard to get.) BAV21 is available, and cheap... from Digikey et. al. ... the last time I checked... as

Will do !

Hi Jose, I think that could be correct, but as mentioned in my previous post about the same problem you're having, check the ceramic strips. In that example it was (just) a poor/dirty contact in the

These are the ones connected to the circuit... I cannot read the original ones...

If I read well the part number (not that easy) : V21 seems to be marked on the diode. Could it be a BAV21 (250V / 200mA) ? Jose

Hi, there were previous problems with the DC restorer circuit in a 485, read here: /g/TekScopes/topic/7645269?p=,,,20,0,0,0::,,,0,0,0,7645269 Leo

Dear Menachem fine to hear from you I thought the same, and pulled out U500 trigger, yesterday. Completely clean, AMP socket gold pins perfect. I used static precautions and 99% isopropyl alcohol,

Hi Roger, You're welcome. I will investigate later today and see if I can figure out the exact steps to use the disk utility menu for you. The instructions for the floppy tools utility regarding

On the part list : 225V 0.2A - NDP341 is the ref model.

A multimeter does not test for things like low breakdown voltage, so passing a multimeter diode check is not quite a guarantee that a diode is good. All you can say is that failure to pass a

Hi, in my manual it says: CR1660 1500V 10uA CX342 CR1663/CR1664/CR1665/CT1666 till SN B167597 a 225V 0.2A SI diode like FDH5004 BUT!! From SN B167580 -> this changed to a 1500V 10uA CX342

Tom, Leo I just checked the 3x2 diodes (multimeter in diode mode). I expect 0,6V when measuring forward bias, 0L when in reverse bias. CR1660 : both the original diode and the newer one solder

What is the voltage rating of the diodes from the parts list? In Leo’s picture proper diodes look like longer HV type, in your pictures replaced diodes look normal low voltage diodes. Could you read

Goodmorning Jose, For reference, I took a picture of the board in my scope, I added it to the tekscopes album here: /g/TekScopes/album?id=259874 I would check these diodes first

Check those diodes before reconnecting. They didn't leave the factory that way, so somebody disconnected them for a reason. It's possible that they're dead. Easier to check when they're not connected.