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In my earlier days (pre 1970), I used to "trim" carbon composition resistors by carefully overheating them with a soldering iron to raise their values slightly. This may have also improved their

I have repaired a 465 (not "B") in this manner. Actually "reassembled" that little plastic part on the shaft from the pieces recovered from inside the drum. Tedious job, but JB Weld did the job. One

No, in hindsight (after reading your messages once more) I see that your 'scope very likely has another problem. After some searching in the manual I found U1720 at diagram 25, board A29. It would

Dennis has given information on how to pay by check I used PayPal account with no issues, paid from my PayPal balance, not a credit card. Jon

I'm going to post the picture(s) I took of the disassembled Time/Div switch assembly. D.

I think JB Weld is a good solution for the B switch cam/shaft joint. It's slow curing, and yeah, the knurling will make a great bonding surface. And I can see where I need to be super careful about

Just a suggestion for gluing plastic to metal. I have found the slow-cure epoxies to be generally stronger than the quick-cure ones. I bought some "industrial" epoxy from Loctite (Hysol 1C - not

I was showing my wife what happened and went through the 465B and 475 parts manuals from the Tek Wiki. To show her how similar the scope faces are, but also to look up the part numbers in the service

How similar is the 465's sec/div switch cam to the 475's, I wonder. I've got 3 "parts" 475s and could probably spare one of the switch cam assemblies. If you had a full drum and shaft assembly would

Related: The grey B time/div knob is supposed to be bonded to the metal part of the switch, right? Mine is loose and only the "tails" of the setscrews in the holes are holding the plastic in position.

Just had a quick look at your post, Dave, but no time to read thoroughly: It's almost 4 AM where I live (Netherlands, GMT+1). You seem to ask if you can just glue the aluminum shaft to the drum. If

Glad and good to know it works on this mechanism too. Raymond

Hi all, I know this is a common problem, and have seen a nice description here: https://forum.tek.com/viewtopic.php?f=568&t=138253&sid=c827508d3401e2cd90eb52f42415517a In his fix he replaced some of

Just the internal plastic piece that broke. The only difficulty is managing the spring loaded catch that the four switches use to release the others when one is depressed, while simultaneously

My own experience in the resistor business was long ago and did not include "mud" resistors. However, the only reason I can see that voltage might make a difference is if the resistor had a very high

Well done, Dave. Did you exchange the one switch? Or even just the broken plastic part? Can't see. Raymond

See the photos in /g/TekScopes/album?id=257214. Something's finally fixed! Thanks for the suggestion Raymond. Dave

Hi Steve, You may find clues about what your Comdyna system is here: http://www.dvq.com/oldcomp/analog/comdyna.htm Lots of pictures of various Comdyna computers and accessories. Good luck, Wolfgang

I don't think the procedure for proper measurement of resistance would have an appreciable effect on a resistor that is grossly out of specification.? Maybe for nitpicking whether it's in spec or

There was a DIY reflow PID controller published in the April/May 2020 Silicon Chip Magazine (https://www.siliconchip.com.au/Issue/Browse/Issues ).? I haven’t tried building it, but it seems like a