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OK, looks like one of the .027 1200V caps was bad. I replaced all of those and found 2 resistors drifted up (6.2M was 7.6M and a 4.7M was 5.6M). Changed those out and everything looks good. Before I

Hey All, Came across this vintage Tek part, which is in octal tube type package, marked as "Tektronix T-21A1" Looks like some sort of transformer, anyone here knows more about it? Pics here

Those would go away with the proper blanking, likely. That's because when the sweep is waiting for a

Ok. This is good. I'm not the expert here, but.... the H and V amplifiers work, the readout circuitry works. Assuming that focus and astigmatism aren't related directly to intensity (I don't know the

There are plenty of 7A26's out there, so skip that rare cheapo plugin. 7633 is valuable for its variable persistence.

Hi Dave and all, I made some progress! Found Q143 shorted. Replaced with another 151-0220-00. Now the trace is focused but turning the intensity control fully ccw the trace do not disappears but

If the +130v supply is good, check the voltage on Q173's base. It should be 82vdc. If it is low check C171 for leakage. If C171 is OK, check CR177, CR173, and Q173 for leakage and shorts. Then check

I use Circuit Works CW2500 epoxy to repair traces on a PCB and overcoat the result.? Its a good epoxy but somewhat expensive.? All epoxy "glues" will melt when soldering so plan accordingly.? In

Good warning. Thanks.

OK Harvey, I did as you suggested, putting a V and H plugin. Here the results: 1) Trace is moveable in both horizontal and vertical position. So I put the trace off-screen to avoid CRT damage. 2)

Check to see if the astigmatism control works, if focus works (do

Oh dear - the dreaded one pin out problem. We've all done that at some point. I've got away with it until I did it on my 577 curve tracer and took out most of the silicon. Fixing it is a "work in

O.K. I checked power rails and found a short on -15V, pin 7 of P82 connector (sense). NOTE: some other people was attempted to repair this poor 7854, so...they left behind a disaster with no success.

Silicone will rip with mechanical stress. Epoxy is much stronger. Regards, Mark W7MLG wrote:

cheater cheater wrote on 5/4/2019 10:15 AM: Hello-- Do you have automobile-supply stores in Austria such as this one... https://www.autozone.com/ <https://www.vipauto.com/> If so, you might

I really don't understand this insistence on 'high temperature' epoxy, as I said, re-seat the connector and if it has no retention itself then clamp it or put a bit of epoxy away from the solder area

With the 76xx series you do need a dual timebase plugin, since there are only 3 slots. You're mixing up the letters. For 7000 series, the nomenclature goes as follows (not all inclusive) and there's

Overload. You had bad caps on the pow

Hi A regular ticking means that you have a short on one of the power rails in the mainframe. George G6HIG

Good news! I found another couple of leaky electrolytic. So I decide to change ALL electrolytic capcitors on inverter and control/rectifier board, using Nichicon PWM-R 105 deg (low ESR). Replaced the