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No reason you couldn't use a termination for the same thing, unless you think that a static discharge across a 50 ohm termination might be a problem. Harvey

Hi Albert, of S901 "Correction Memory Switch", see page 2-5, is important. For now the best way is to set the switch in the rear (OFF) position (as long as you don't have a pulse generator head). >

On the right side: loosen two setscrews in the top and bottom rails just behind the front panel. One the left side: loosen a small setscrew on the top of the lower rail. It holds the left module pivot

My SD-26 heads came with shorting caps. And I need caps for my SD-22 heads. I'm wondering though if non-shorting caps would be more appropriate. The male pin rotating in the female sleeve seems as if

Thanks Cliff. Before seeing your post, I figured out that the whole front comes off - the hard way. I started unscrewing everything front and back, and whole plug-in began to fall apart. It's pretty

Along with picture, I use a sharpie, and mark the parts on the inside... where it isn't visible. I use 1A, 2A... and so on, for the left... and 2A, 2B...and so on for the right. I also mark the part,

along with the tools above, I'd take an adjustable wrench, a socket set (with ratchet, and drivers)… and a set of deep sockets, for removing recessed bolts.

Hi All: If I remember... and it is the hex bolts/screws, in the pivot.. that are recessed... I used a ratchet and a socket, from a set of "deep sockets" to remove those. It's straight forward with

OK. I found screws from the inside, but they are inaccessible without pulling the right side RF casting assembly. It also appears the front of the casting is held with setscrews on some kind of pins

Ed, Be careful with those knobs. The switching (partly physical contacts and partly an optical encoder) is contained entirely inside the knobs themselves. Disassembly is not recommended unless they

I just picked up a severely mechanically damaged 7L5, and trying to rebuild it. I started taking apart the front panel, removing the knobs as usual. The frequency span/resolution and time/div knobs

What more would you like to know? The limitation with the 2402 is simply its age. The hardware is well made so, that aspect of the age is not a big issue. But DOS is a problem. MANY modern interfaces

Tony, Count me in as "very interested". I recently acquired a 2402A with FDD/HDD and it looks like I'm going to have to replace/reload the hard drive. Thoughts were to use this as a scope controller,

Hi Your problem is that in the UK where prices are higher than in the US at amateur radio rallies a 7633 with two or three plugins sell for under $50 73 George G6HIG

No response. Ah well, high shipping prices mean disassembly for this poor tired broken scope.

I recently bought one of these and I was able to get it into the back of a VW Golf cabriolet, even with the soft-top up. Indeed, the ability to open the roof of the soft-top was an advantage in

Thanks for the explanation and correcting my flawed assumption. I was aware that it is very sensitive, so I've been extra careful and will continue to me. It's a great tool to have. I've noticed it is

On Fri, Apr 19, 2019 at 02:10 AM, @0culus wrote: Hi Sean, Glad that's solved. > > I assumed that it should work just like compensating a passive 10x probe. > You have to realize that the compensation

Take a few pictures too, it will help. Leon Robinson ?? K5JLR Political Correctness is a Political Disease. Politicians and Diapers should be changed often and for the same reasons.

And take some plastic bags and label the screws and bolts as you take them off. It only takes a couple minutes and it will make reassembly trivial. Paul