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Trim molding for lockers and hatches


 

As a great user of the last web site, I am certainly glad that someone
else has the skills, enthusiasm and time to start another one.
Thanks!!!
I am repairing my deck and would like to replace the molding that goes
over the fiberglass lip and seals the hatches and cockpit seat
lockers. Can anyone tell me where to find a replacement with the same
or similar cross section. Thanks, Jim


 

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Unfortunately, T-27.com doesn¡¯t get much use¡­.

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If you have projects or info to share I¡¯d be happy to post it.? We have 29 members registered on T-27.com.?

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If nobody is interested in using it I can also kill the project.? My initial goal was to create a rough framework and then wait for direction from everyone else as to what content was needed or wanted.? The old Tartan27.com was supposed to be transferred over and it appears it was abandoned and has been snapped up by some loser serving ¡°search¡± crap.

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In other news, I¡¯m in the process of repainting my deck. My nonskid had adhesion failure in about 85% of the deck.? Looks like the culprit comes back to primer failure as the non-skid is on top of some paint on top of some paint on top of some primer (that isn¡¯t a typo).

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Process wise, what worked best was a 1500 or 1800 PSI electric pressure washer to knock loose whatever is going to come off easily.? Then I¡¯m coming back with a tungsten scraper and removing what didn¡¯t come up with the pressure washer.? Some of it was extremely well adhered and is a monster to get off.? After that I come back with an angle grinder and a blue sanding pad to remove old paint and in areas where the gel coat is crazed to try and get the nasty stuff out.? This will grind off some gel coat¡­.. it¡¯s crazed anyhow on my boat so no big loss.

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Lastly I¡¯m going over it with a ? sheet sander and 80 grit to smooth it out some.? For hand sanding I¡¯m using 3M sandblaster sponges and sandpaper.

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The plan is to put down a layer of primer and then two coats of interlux brightsides in the areas where it¡¯s just going to be paint.? I¡¯m using Kiwi-Grip on the non-skid.

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Color scheme will be white for the paint, light grey for the kiwi-grip nonskid and the hull is currently green.? I may redo the hull dark blue, but this gives me a sharp color scheme and the boat isn¡¯t going to get any hotter in blue vs. green.? Lol.

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Brian Greul

Texas Shirt Company

713-802-0369 / 713-861-6261 (fax)

Targeted, Effective Promotions to help you grow your brand


 

Dibbsjim,
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I found replacement molding available at West Marine. As yet I haven't bought it as I am a month or two away from that project. The "U" shaped produce I saw at West appears to be the same as what came off of my 64 model. Maybe someone else who has actually done this project will chime in.
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Billy Ray Davis
Scarlet #79

dobbsjim wrote:
As a great user of the last web site, I am certainly glad that someone
else has the skills, enthusiasm and time to start another one.
Thanks!!!
I am repairing my deck and would like to replace the molding that goes
over the fiberglass lip and seals the hatches and cockpit seat
lockers. Can anyone tell me where to find a replacement with the same
or similar cross section. Thanks, Jim



Never miss a thing.


 

Jim,
I certainly miss the old website and several of the old T27 owners who knew and shared so much have moved on to other boats and situations so don't count on input from them. The rest of us will have to continue carrying the torch. I am not thoroughly happy with the yahoo group I started although they do have a group (messages) by topic option - I miss the way the old website had a projects section as Brian at Txshirts has tried to emulate on his t-27.com website. I will check in over at t-27.com to try and post the how-to of teak toe rail/rub rail replacement as I see it.
In my last email I railed on about all the work required to build and finish the toe/rub rail so I feel it appropriate to offer a possible alternative (just in case you thought I was all out of ideas).
My biggest problem with the all teak rub rail is how easily the teak can be cracked in one split second (pun intended) so I will offer this as an alternative.
The following link is for a rubberized rub rail that could replace the outer facing teak boards. It is not that cheap but probably no more expensive than teak that has to be milled down to size. The upper part (I call it a toe rail 'cause I always bang my toes on it) could then still be made of beautiful teak and the 3/4 round rubberized rub rail mounted on the outer end of the top boards. I guess the rubberized rail would be screwed in (as per mfr.s suggestions) but could also be bedded continuously with 3M 4200 or similar for additional adhesion. Less teak (you can't see the outer teak when you are on the boat anyway) and a more durable surface facing out where it will better handle the punishment a 3-1/2 ton boat can dish out.
While I am on the subject of te rub/toe rail I will point out that the method that Tartan used to join the hull to the deck produced a fiberglass lip that extends out past the sheer of the hull by at least 1-1/2". This lip is used to secure screws to to hold down the teak that makes up the toe/rub rail. This lip also makes the T27 something less than a blue water boat as any waves large enough will ride up the freeboard and smash into this lip, ripping off (hopefully) only expensive teak in the process. There is a guy on a T27 who sailed to somewhere in the South Pacific who modified this design to make his boat more 'blue water'. I think he filled in underneath the lip with glass and epoxy and faired it so as to deflect any large waves away from the ship, especially in the bow. I know that most of us just enjoy our boats on whatever body or bodies of water we frequent and are not planning on heading to Bermuda just yet but I thought this an interesting caveat.

CalebD
T27 #328 Odalisque, 1967
NY

-----Original Message-----
From: dobbsjim <dobbsjim@...>
To: T27Owners@...
Sent: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 9:20 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] Trim molding for lockers and hatches

As a great user of the last web site, I am certainly glad that someone
else has the skills, enthusiasm and time to start another one.
Thanks!!!
I am repairing my deck and would like to replace the molding that goes
over the fiberglass lip and seals the hatches and cockpit seat
lockers. Can anyone tell me where to find a replacement with the same
or similar cross section. Thanks, Jim




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